What should I use for my fluorescent lighting?

Hey everyone. I received my kit yesterday. I have 3 multis and a smart outlet.

So far Ive put a multi on the garage door, one on the mailbox and one on our back door. Haven’t decided where I’m going to put the smart outlet yet.

I see that the GE In-Wall Outlet (http://www.amazon.com/GE-45605-Z-Wave-Technology-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/) will work with fluorescent lights, so I am thinking I will probably be replacing several outlets in my home with these.

My question is, for some scenarios where I am not using lamps but overhead lighting, which switches should I use? I don’t care about dimming capabilities, but it looks like most of the GE switches, as well as other brands, that I come across will only work with incandescent lighting. Almost every bulb in our house has been switched to fluorescent. What are my options?

I use the Jasco / GE 3-way switches with both incandescent and fluorescent lighting, with no issues. As far as I know, they will not give you any problems provided you have neutral wiring. I’ve heard LED can be problematic without neutral, not sure about fluorescent.

Another option is the plug-in receptacle that screws into the bulb housing & the bulb itself. Don’t have any experience with those yet:

I’ve used the screw-in receptacles. I think I wrote about them a bit in a thread on “retrofitting old lighting” or something similar. At any rate, they seem to need to be close to the hub to pair, but otherwise they work well. I’ve been using them with CFLs and a SmartThings motion detector with good success.

Thanks for the info guys!

Just a follow-up. I ordered some of the switches I linked to in my first post and they are working out great, no problems at all.

Did have another question, though. Appreciate everyone’s patience with me. :slight_smile:

Can these same switches be used for lights that are controlled by multiple switches? For example… I have recessed lighting in our loft at the top of the stairs. I can turn these lights on from 3 locations - bottom of the stairs, top of the stairs and down the hall at our bedroom. I believe these generally have what are called “traveler wires” behind them from what I have read?

I saw something like these: http://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Z-Wave-Technology-Dimmer/dp/B0013V58K2/ which indicate that they can be used for setups that sound like what I am talking about. But what about locations like mine where I can toggle at 3 different switches? I would assume these would work fine there as well?

I am not familiar with how a 4 way (3 switches + lights) is wired up. But you would need auxiliary switches (GE 45610)

Looking back, I’m not sure which switches you bought as the link in your first post is an outlet.

This kit is an on/off and will work with fluorescents.


It is just a combo pack of a 45609 and a 45610

The one you just linked is also a combo pack but is dimmable and may not work with LED/Fluorescent lighting.

Thanks, Cory. Long day at work, not sure why I thought I had linked to the switches in my original post.

The 45609 is indeed what I purchased for the switches Ive already installed. Thanks for pointing out the dim-able aspect of the one I linked - I had missed that. So I guess it sounds like I would need the combo 45614 and maybe a 2nd 45610?

I emailed GE for support but have not heard anything back yet. I have a few points in my house where lights are controlled in 2 places and figured something like the 45614 kit would work, but only this one location where its controlled in 3.

I would THINK would you need one 45609 with two 45610s, the 45609 being hooked up in place of the master for each 4 ways you have. But, I really have no idea how 4 ways work. I’d lookup a few wiring diagrams, and maybe get with GE. I know a guy talked about setting up a 4 way on an amazon review for the switch…so it should be possible.

Joe, I’ve wired 2 different lights that are both 4-way (3 switches, one light) using the combo packs you linked. I just ordered 4 of the kits, and then used the 2 extra main switches (45609) in different (single-switch) locations.

It’s important to keep in mind, while wiring the Aux switches, that they are not actually switches per-se. All they do is sent a command using the traveler wire to the main switch, which is where all the actual switching happens. Once I figured this out, the wiring became much clearer in my mind.

In short, you’re going to want to connect the load and line wires (usually black) together at the aux locations (bypassing the aux switch entirely). Only thing you wire to the Aux switches is neutral and the traveler.

Cory, Daniel - thanks for the help. Right after I ready your replies I received my email back from GE/Jasco as well:

“You will need the 45614 kit plus one more 45610. You can only use one primary switch which is the 45609.”

I think I have a clearer idea of what needs to be done now. Thanks again!

@y2hbk: Check the manual that came with your switches. I’m pretty sure they have diagrams for both 3-way and 4-way setups.

You can also see it here:


So they show a 4-way circuit with two 45610s and one 45609. Since the 45614 kit contains one of each, you’d need an additional 45610.

Thats impressive response time from GE/Jasco, especially for how bad I’ve heard their customer service is.

Does any one know if 45614 kit work with cfl / led bulbs ?

Yes it will, as long as you have a neutral wire.

Well I have to say I am dumbfounded. I went to switch out my dining room switches today. One controls the overhead lighting, one controls the hall light and two control the street lamp and porchlights.

I found the traveler wire that is used for the hall light which I will need for the 3 way kit. However, all 4 switches do not have neutral wires. How is that even possible in a house that was built in 2007?

Outside of…

  1. Returning the kits
  2. Having an electrician look at what needs done to run neutrals

…anything I can do?

Some builders have been known to do that to save money on copper. I lucked out. I have neutrals for each switch and mine was built in 86. To answer your question, as far as I know you either have to run neutrals, or use dimmers with incandescents. Or, you could use the screw in module option. That would just never work for me as people would always be turning power off at the switch negating any automation attempts.

Has anyone here tried the new Cree dimmable LED bulbs from Home Depot? They cost like $13 a piece - very affordable. I’m wondering how they would do with one of the incandescent dimmers.

I have about 5 of the Crees so far. They are very nice. One of my lamps is using the jasco plug-in dimmer. The light dims nicely with no flicker. But there is a slight hum below full bright. The hum is not noticeable if you are a few feet away.

I have also read about installing dummy loads on dimmers so that you can run any bulb.