More importantly how old is your house. if your home was built pre 1980 you probably do not have a neutral wire at your switches and that makes your only choice the modules that go up inside the box at the lamp.
More modern electrical code requires power to be ran to the switch then to the fixture, older allowed them to dump power at the fixture and then run a feeder without neutral to the switch.
The home was built in 1946. Here is an example of the wiring at the top/bottom of the stairs and the current switches. Most wiring has been updated but not all. The wires are labeled as T1, T2 and Common. There is no ground or neutral currently hooked up.
I thought the same thing. However I just picked up 6 of these at HD. They are awesome. When they dim they turn off some 2700k LEDs and turn on some 2200k LEDs to give a nice warm dim. They dim smooth and fluid with the GE ZWave Dimmer switch.
They are the new bulb of choice for my house and at $3.30 each a good buy.
Based on this, I will just have to keep the current switches in place. The dimmer and ST commands work as long as others don’t cut power to the lights. The bulbs dim and everything works perfectly just wish it would not be possible for others to “kill” the power to the lights.
Maybe next year (doubtful) I will get wild and rewire the whole home. In the meantime, I will stick with the GE Link bulbs and basic things like motion sensors and thermostats.
Some folks on the forums have put on child locks over their switches. Looks like they just snap on over the switch to keep people from turning them off… You could search for that, it might be an option
GE/Jasco is releasing zwave motion switch dimmers soon. But. They aren’t going to work seamlessly with your zigbee bulbs. I wouldn’t be surprised if they follow up with a zigbee motion switch within six months.
But honestly? The ge link bulbs are terrible. Get rid of them and use zwave switches with dumb bulbs.
Well, not anti-ST, but in my bathroom as an example instead of a motion detector and ST switch, I put in a motion activated switch by itself. No lag time, not dependent on a hub, very reliable, about $23 at Lowes.
Lots of people use switch locks to keep critical switches on, like those controlling freezers, air conditioners, or aquarium equipment, without having children in the house. There are many different styles available. Here’s the one we use:
As for the GE bulbs, I’m glad they’re working well for you. I hope that continues. But they do have a known firmware defect, which is why they aren’t on the official “works with SmartThings” list. Some (not all) have a tendency to drop off the network where other brands don’t. A lot of people don’t care, considering it just a mild inconvenience and worth the savings.
Understood, different things work for different people.
The following topic discusses what kinds of options different people use with smart bulbs. It might be of interest.
As far as smart switches with dumb bulbs, there are still a number of options to consider.
Micro relays. As others have suggested, you can use a micro relay somewhere else on the circuit, typically at the ceiling fixture. Although you can use most dumb switches with them, people generally prefer to replace the switch with a momentary button as it will work more intuitively. A lot of choices for these.
if you want to use incandescent bulbs, Both Ge and cooper make smart switches that do not require a neutral. They don’t work with LEDs, though.
Lutron Caseta has a nice switch which does not require a neutral and does work with LEDs. However, it is not directly compatible with SmartThings. It does have an IFTTT channel, which gives you indirect integration, although there may be some noticeable lag. So it just depends on the exact use case. For lights which will primarily come on on a schedule, the lag may not matter. Or you might just keep that as an entirely separate system from SmartThings. It would be nice if someday SmartThings added full Lutron integration but I wouldn’t count on it. Even so, it is a solution chosen by some people in older houses without neutrals.
And on a separate note, there are not as yet any smart things compatible switches that have a built-in motion sensor. However, it’s very easy to use a separate motion sensor to trigger either a smart wall switch or a smart bulb. In fact, with a separate motion sensor it’s often easier to place it to catch just the right motion since the wall switch is almost by definition on the edge of the room. Many community members use motion sensors to trigger lighting with SmartThings.