Trying to install GE 3-way with 12722 and the add on 12723 but missing the neutral where the addon goes

Ok after some digging around I have concluded that I have option 9!
the reason is in the main 4 gang box, where the master or main GE switch is located (not the add-on) there you see the power comming in, also the the wire with the red, copper, white, black goes the the switch down stairs where i want to add the add-on. also in that 4 gang box there is another wire that only has black, white and copper, this goes to the lights. in that same 4 gang box one BLACK wire from the lights is tied with a red wire nut to the black wire that is going down to the 1 gang box at the bottom of the stairs

this leads me to conclude that it matches the diagram number 4 you guys provided

so know that we figured out which diagram I have can I be helped?

Sure. I’m going to take it from the original form, as if you had not touched a thing -

Main switch box -

  1. Connect GE Line to black bundle
  2. Uncap the black lines that go to the secondary switch and load
  3. Connect load black wire to GE Load
  4. Cap off black wire going to secondary switch (this will be unused)
  5. Connect connect GE neutral and white going to secondary switch to neutral bundle
  6. Connect red going to secondary switch to GE Traveler

Secondary Switch Box -

  1. Connect red to GE traveler
  2. Connect white to GE neutral
  3. Cap off black wire (this will be unused)
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THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
I just followed you directions and BOOM its working perfectly…

I want to thank everyone here that tried to help me it is very much appreciated!

special thanks to
Schro
DAVID S

who got me up and running…

hope it is not this dificult to change over the other 20 switches I need to do

I will say it would have gone over allot easier if the restrictions on posting as a new user where not so strict

Hi everyone,
I have the same issue, with the Neutral wire only in the main box.
From the diagrams list posted by @Navat604 , I believe I have option 4.
Any way I can make this work?
Thanks in advance!

Can you post pictures of the wires in the two boxes? Saying “I believe” doesn’t give me a high level of confidence that you know what you’re looking at.

For option 4, it looks like it could be done, but you would need to do some wiring adjustments up in the lights to make it work. I can post my best guess set of steps once we confirm you have number 4. Do you have a multimeter?

I have made some diagrams for someone else but you can refer to them. Look at the bottom two and only the left two switches. That is how they should be wired.

Modified ones attached below

Here are the modified diagrams just relating to a 3-way setup with one GE Smart Switch/Dimmer and an Add-on switch. Your wiring needs to be configured in one of these two ways.

Power and load in the same box:

Power and load in different boxes:

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For what it’s worth, I found these videos helpful (they’ve got more, so check to see what else they have):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2t5rihZyDU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kizwU0py3c0

Thanks guys for helping!
Here are some pictures from my setup:

Box 1:
Main smart dimmer I wired, currently working. I have Ground, Hot, Neutral and 2 blue wires in the box.

This is how it was originally setup (the add-on switch with no dimmer, just on/off)

Box 2:
Only Ground, 2 black wires and 1 red.
The Dimmer was hooked up in there as per the picture. The 2 black wire going to the 2 red of the dimmer, and the red to the black.

To have the main Smart dimmer work, I had to connect the red and one back together - just like in the 2nd video posted by @jhamstead, and as per the instructions.

I can’t figure out how to connect the Neutral + Load + Traveler with only 2 wires…

Thanks!

It appears to me you have the load and power in the same box. You’d therefore use the first wiring diagram.

Just to verify you did buy the GE add-on switch as standard 3-way switches will not work with a smart switch.

Hi,

I was wondering if you could help me out. I have a similar issue however my wiring layout is a tad bit different. I have a 3way switch that controls the two separate top outlets. Here is the image that best describes what I have:

Please let me know if you can help. Thanks!

The GE switches won’t work with that wiring configuration. Between the bulbs and switches, you have to get line, load and neutral but you’ve only got two wires there.

Does it make a difference that the main switch is in a box with two other switches? Maybe I can pull power from one of those?

If the circuit for the two other 2 switches are using the same circuit breaker then it should be OK.

I believe they are on different fuses within the same circuit breaker box.

Then no. It’s not advisable to use the neutral from a different circuit. If you have access to the light fixture box. You could install an in wall relay module such as Aeon Micro, Emerwave or Monoprice.

If the load is not too high you can always change the circuit. Cap off each of the existing neutral and line and use the neutral and line you have available in one of the switch boxes. I did that for one of my hall lights.