Triple Gang light switch replacement (UK)

If you want to leave the other 2 switches I’d use a sonoff mini. This is in effect an inline relay which you can wire above your pod lights in ceiling and connect the two wires going to the existing switch to the switch contacts on the mini and hey presto you have smart lights that can also be operated by the existing light switch and they cost less than £10.

2 Likes

Yes, they should, the only complication really is your actual 3rd 2-way switch. By looking at your picture, that 3 gang switch is a 3 gang 2-way switch and nothing like that exists in smart. There are modules what you can fit behing switches, but they are max 2 relays. Those can be used with 2-way wiring.
There are options for 2 or 3 way setups as well with that kind of modules where only 1 switch/module controls the power and another one is mirrored.

The Yagusmart and many similar Tuya wifi and zigbee switches offer a convenient way to be able physically control from a switch, just by replacing the old switch with a smart one. But for 2-way, you need another switch installed at the other location and operate as a button only. Unfortunately at those setups only switches with neutral wire works, because the neutral wire-free smart switches need a physical load to operate.

Otherwise regarding electrocution, the UK has quite strict rules regarding electrical work done by only licensed electricians. (I lived there, saw that. - Rented a flat, the landlord did some renovation in the flat just after I moved in. Electric work as well, new fuse box. One day I saw that the seel of the meter from Scottish Power is missing. I asked the electrician, why he hasn’t mentioned this to me before, that something had happened. He told, that one of the cables just had fallen out from the meter so removed the seel and fitted the cable back… No comment! — It cost me a meter replacement after that…)

1 Like

The good news is the accessory/auxiliary smart switch does not have to use a physical traveler wire the Way a dumb switch does. So you can get around this simply by using any switch that can communicate to a smartthings account, even a battery powered switch, and use that.

The accessory switch sends a message to the hub, The hub sends a message to the master, the master controls the fitting. It all works and it should be ok with safety code since it’s only an accessory position, although of course you should always check with your local jurisdiction.

There are even some options that will work when the hub is not working. So I’m less concerned about this aspect of this particular project. That can be solved with a “virtual two-way.“ :sunglasses:

2 Likes

Hi,

Just to iterate - this is still running well in my son’s room since I sorted this. Just download the code in that thread and it will work well. Only 2 of the three switches are wired in. I use the third to operate a smart plug for his lamps with a zigbee motion sensor that turns them al off if no motion sensor for a period of time (normal for kids!)

2 Likes
  1. The law in the UK allows you to change your own switches in the UK.
  2. The way a 2 way light switch is wired in the UK, means one switch will have a live connection and the 2nd switch will have the return to the light so you have to use a 2 way switch at both and the only ones I’m aware of that will work in the UK are lightwaverf but these are £160, plus you will need the additional lightwaverf slave switch at the other switch. These do work with smartthings as there is a native skill but not sure if you still need the hub (as I’ve got their hub too).

Thats why I made the suggestion I did with the sonoff mini. Value for money and effective.

Sorry I didn’t fully explain earlier.

Links

2 Likes