SmartThings Community

Smoke/CO Z Wave?


Just ordered the Halo. I’ll report back when I get it installed.


I replaced all 11 of my zcombos with Halos and couldn’t be happier. No batteries to replace (almost twice a year with the zcombos, and they start chirping just below 80% battery), they’re interconnected, and they have a cool LED ring that makes for a great night light.

( co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy) #11

Over $1500 USD, unless you found a great bulk-buy sale?

I’m definitely glad you love them; and always interesting to find out that not all folks buy SmartThings because it is the low-budget smart home system.


Not quite. I just got the Halo, not the plus.

Legit discounts, gift cards, and using Amazon points to buy Lowe’s cards helps.

(John C) #13

The basic idea is shown in the link @Nhaley already posted! I used a different contact sensor I had on-hand, but otherwise as shown…


Complete newbie here with very little knowledge (yet). Been following this thread and liked the idea of adding the contact with a simple sensor. As I have old smokes that have to be changed, decided to look to see if anything had an integrated contact in it already. Found the Gentex line does (sold @ Home Depot). Pretty much anyone of their Smoke detectors that has a part number that ends in “F” (i.e 9123F) will have a form C dry contact. Should only need to monitor 1 as when the first goes, they will all go (at least that’s what I think at this stage) and the contact will be opened/closed.

Just want to monitor for a second home, don’t care which one is going off, just concerned if any are going off.


Just installed the Halo smoke/co alarm. Oddly, it paired incredibly quickly to smartthings but the Halo app didn’t pair.

Still need to test to see if the interconnect works with my existing basic (Kiddie?) smoke detectors.

Initial findings:

  • It reads the temp and humidity, which I didn’t know. However, the temp is 7 degrees (F) above what my thermostat says. Assuming the humidity is wrong also.
  • Smartthings allows you to control the base LED color.
  • Seems like the smartthings app can replace the Halo app completely.

(Joshua Cox) #16

Glad you were able to set the device up quickly to ST. I thought I’d offer some clarity on the halo app.

At this time, You can connect via ZigBee (ST) or Wi-Fi (Halo App) but not both. We worked closely with SmartThings where you wouldn’t miss much functionality.

Our FAQ is here:

(captainjack) #17

old post I know but for others reading this in the future… You are right in that Nest detectors are expensive. But they do interconnect to each other using their own wifi protocol so that isn’t an issue. Also the interconnect wire stays in the house and just gets capped off. Additionally, smoke detectors are supposed to be replaced at least every ten years so the whole angle about resale is a moot point.

Editing update…Nest states to replace theirs at 7 even though the accepted normal recommendation is 10.


I’m curious how a home inspector would view detectors that are all Nest that sort of require an app a buyer may or may not know how to use (even though it’s dead simple). Might turn off some potential buyers vs a simple Kiddie interconnect. Just something to think about. May not be something that actually adds value to the home like we’d assume. I think about this a lot with my smart light switches that require a smartthings hub and Alexa to really work simply, which 9/10 people don’t know how to use intuitively without previous experience. It takes some “training.”

At least with the Halo’s they are wired interconnect like any other system. Assuming all detectors are Halo’s and interconnected, it seems like more of a complete/working package. That’s ultimately why I ended up with the Halo’s in my house.

Just thinking out loud here…

(captainjack) #19

good question. The Nest detectors only require initial setup with the app so they can talk to each other though. After that the app is no longer needed.

I have to make a change to my previous statement of having to replace detectors after 10 years. The nest website says to replace theirs at 7. I am pretty sure they probably are set up to just stop working at 7.

If anybody thinks any of this smartstuff or nest detectors or nest thermostats or remote opening garage doors adds any value to a house purchase they are delusional.

A house purchase isn’t going to be derailed or close because of a $40 light switch, or even several.


Definitely not adding value to the house. I’d call it a nice feature at best, assuming somebody like us is the buyer lol. In fact, some might be turned off by it. That’s what I meant.

7 years wouldn’t surprise me.


See my post here how I integrated my Smoke network for less than $50 without changing the detectors.


I have 3 Kidde hardwired interconnected, which I would like to add a relay to integrate to ST. Which Relay did you use? As far as I know, Kidde applies 9V to the gray wire when active, which triggers the remote units.

(John C) #23

Kidde - Interconnect Accessories Smoke Relay Module: 408-Sm120X - smoke relay module

It worked out well for this application!


See my post just above, there is a link to Amazon for the relay as well as a pictures.


Yes, I saw it after I asked the question… thanks again!

(Marty) #27

So, like others here I was buying the Halo smoke detectors. Oddly this discussion seems to have died out and along with it so has the Halo company. This is very sad because I really like mine and when paired to Smartthings there was no change in functionality when they shut down their cloud stuff.

So the ones I have work just fine, but what are people buying now? It is starting to look like the only options are either battery powered or …?

The Nest solution requires that all of the detectors are Nest products. That isn’t very helpful when you only need to replace one or two failed devices. Even if I did want to buy all 10 or 11 detectors over again I am pretty much turned off by any company that tries to herd you into their system in that fashion.

Has anyone found anything? Why is this so hard?


Likely certification UL listing, etc. These safety products are not toys and can have a drastic impact if improperly designed and produced.

If Nest made their detectors wired and worked with my existing interconnect, I’d be all in.

(Marty) #29

That is the thing, the Nest product would suit me just fine if they supported the interconnect “standard”. While it is true that not all detectors use that wire the same way, the fact remains that enough of the market does actually work together to matter.

I am not going to claim that I know how much it costs to add the hardware necessary to monitor that interconnect wire, but one can pretty much guarantee that such costs are less than engineering a brand new wireless communication format to connect the devices. The logical conclusion is that they chose this path primarily because it just happens to have the side effect that you can’t “legally” buy any other product without replacing all of them.

Sadly this kind of tactic tells me that they expect people won’t see enough value in their product to come back on their own. Instead of building a device that they are proudly saying “ours is better than theirs” they are saying “buy ours because it is cool…and by the way good, luck switching back!”

Ironically, just like the previous comment, I would be buying a bunch of them of they would just make a decent product without playing games.

Sorry… done ranting.

Oh, wait…one more rant!!! The previous post noted the type of product we are dealing with here is an important point and one that is apparently lost on the Kidde and First Alerts of the world. “First Alert” is probably a good name for someone who builds products designed to last 10 years that fail in 2 by firing off every other detector in the house “first”…and always at 3am. These companies say that false alarms are usually due to conditions present in the air, but they are lying. The excuse given for why they will start the “low battery chirp” at 3am might even be scientifically sound, but there is no excuse to sound the main alarm because the battery is low. For a while I was dumb and I replaced the ones that were setting off false alarms with the same brand. New units don’t fail, but others just two years old will. Eventually the new ones get to be two years old and start the same vial behavior. I believe there should be a class action law-suit against that trash because people will lose their lives when they unplugged the thing after 5 false alarms or just as bad go immediately into “trying to kill the detector mode” instead of checking for a fire. How these companies are allowed to build such garbage is beyond comprehension.