Smartthings Outlet Size

[BigTerp (Derek)]

Trying to figure out home much room a Smartthings Outlet/plug takes up on a typical 2 gang home outlet. Basically I’m trying to figure out if I can have a Smartthings outlet/plug on the same outlet as my microwave. My plan is to use this particular outlet to run my under cabinet lighting. I also plan to install a Leviton smart switch on my sink light and then using a virtual switch having the sink light switch power on/off my under cabinet lighting as well.

Here is the outlet/plug in question.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GV2PQY/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[rontalley]

I just use the short 6" extension cords or a little power strip.

[kahilzinger (Kirk Hilzinger)]

Most building codes dictate microwaves have to be on their own circuit.

[ritchierich (Michael)]

I am not sure that is true for counter top models since they can be placed anywhere on the counter.

[kahilzinger (Kirk Hilzinger)]

That would be correct. On my kitchen remodel, I am using an over the range microwave, and that had to be on a dedicated circuit.

[ritchierich (Michael)]

Ah yes that makes sense.

[BigTerp (Derek)]

Thanks for the replies.

[vseven (Allan)]

Being on a dedicated circuit doesn’t necessarily mean you can’t also use the other plug in a duplex output. If your under cabinet lighting is not hardwired, which since you are looking to use a plug in switch outlet its not, then it shouldn’t be against code to plug it into the same circuit. Code I’ve seen for this says dedicated as in a single outlet that you are not hard-wiring another outlet off of.

On top of that a higher end microwave is going to be at most around 1600w which is drawing around 13 amps. The outlet is more then likely rated for 20 amps (check your circuit breaker). LED lighting is not taking up another 7 amps.

[ritchierich (Michael)]

I am not a big fan of wires hanging down. You could hard wire your under cabinet lights and use a micro switch that you install inside the receptacle. Here is an example where my transformer is mounted underneath and power goes into wall and down. And yes I agree with Ron that 6” “surge protector saver” cords can be useful. You will see one used so my microwave isn’t so far from the wall.

[BigTerp (Derek)]

Thanks vseven. This is my thoughts as well. Yes, I plan to use the second plug in the duplex outlet. Not hardwiring any of this. I planned to check the breaker for size when I get home, as well as the microwave for wattage and go from there. The LED’s I plan to use only draw 2amps at 12V, and I won’t be using the entire 16’ of the LED strip. Probably more like 8-10’, so amp draw should be even less.

[Matt_Behnken]

I have the same setup but with motion sensors under the cabinets as well. Pretty slick!

[kahilzinger (Kirk Hilzinger)]

Yeah, but you have to figure in a current draw of 80% of the circuit load so you don’t want to go past 16-amps on a 20-amp circuit, especially when you factor in surge current when the microwave turns on, the fans start spinning and the turntable starts spinning. An LED is certainly not going to pull 3-amps. But, I would not plug a toaster in that outlet.

[BigTerp (Derek)]

Thanks again everyone. The reason I want to use the same outlet as my microwave is to hide all the wires. The outlet is in the cabinet above my microwave, which is mounted above my stove. I’ll run a splitter from the transformer and then run the wires to the left and right into the cabinets. These will then run down the sides of the cabinets (inside) and out to underneath through holes I drill in the bottom of the cabinets. This should keep things nice and neat.

So, with all of that said, there is plenty of room to use the Smartthings plug in a duplex outlet that already has one of the outlets used up?

[rontalley]

Both the Iris and Peanut Smart Plugs will leave room. Here’s a pic of both of them plugged in together.

[BigTerp (Derek)]

Thanks!!!