@mross127 It’s possible that another device on the network is causing problems preventing the device from joining. The GE Link bulbs and previous generation of OSRAM/Sylvania and bulbs were especially known to cause problems with other devices. If you have any of those devices I would suggest powering them all off temporarily while you try to join the sensor. If you have any of the OSRAM/Sylvania bulbs it would also be a good idea to make sure they are on the latest firmware and updating them if they are not by following the instructions here: https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/215394303-Zigbee-OTA-firmware-updates.
Got it working make sure you have exactly the same type of battery.
. Not the one on the right or the contacts won’t connect properly.
it’s a bummer, but I’ve had to remove my three Osram devices for that reason (and their firmware would not update even when I repaired them to my Osram hub)
@AlecM, You should try to move those bulbs somewhere to the edge of your network, where they wouldn’t be used as repeaters.
Or, you can change them to cheaper and more reliable IKEA bulbs. (Osram sockets are working well as repeaters.)
I have got a proof how bad repeaters they are:
@Adam_Young, that is the reason why the sensor has written on it next to the battery place what battery to use. Otherwise, the side terminal can be bent to a level to work with the battery on the right as well.
Unfortunately I took the old original battery out and took it to the shop and ask for a replacement for it and was given the wrong one clearly but I didn’t realise until after I kept trying but I know now and hopefully that post helps others.
@Adam_Young, I know, that is a bit awkward, that the same coin cell can be designed with different shape, but it is really the design of the sensor, which doesn’t account for this issue, only gives a sticker there which says Duracell or Panasonic cells should be used. (As far as I can remember. )
You can still try to bend the terminal to work with your new coin cell. I’d did that with two of my sensors. And they do work.
. I got these in the end after the first one was wrong got these from amazon loads cheaper aswell and they are a perfect fit exactly like the original ones. But thanks again for the help.
No worries, @gszabados, moving to the edge wasn’t practical - was easier to remove them - which is sad, because they’re great bulbs. It was one regular bulb and two downlights which worked great on their own when they weren’t trying to repeat. Now I have mostly hues now (with a few Tradfris mixed in). Since I have a ton of Xiaomi devices, I only use XBees and a Tradfri plug to repeat.
If you have a Hue bridge, then add the Osram ones to that network. I have a few in the Hue zigbee network and one on the SmartThings zigbee network.
On the Hue network they are not critical.
@Gszabados I’d love to, but have had no luck at all with adding them to Hue (have Osram hub, have tried updating firmware, etc etc - I think the American versions of the HUE/ Osram firmware just don’t get along.
GUYS. You are NOT going to believe this.
Got an email back from ST telling me it was bad and I needed to buy the new version. Put a pin in that idea until next payday, though pleased that they’re much cheaper now compared to when we bought the first one.
My husband was fiddling with it today for the heck of it, and noticed that the part that gets pushed when you push the button wasn’t being pushed because the button had a hole in the underside. He used some Fiskars to push the button down and…
IT HAS CONNECTED
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Same issue here. Same version. I’ve disassembled the sensor to ensure that button gets pressed but still no luck. This issue started in the same manner you described. All I get is 2 blue flashes but never pairs with ST or my new Hubitat. Light appears yellow/red when button is pressed and battery is inserted for a sec seconds, then returns to blue flashing. I’m wondering if they’ve just phased this old sensor out?