Simple way to turn pool pump on/off using ST?

project_pool

#1

Hi all, lately I’ve been looking into pool automation and the typical pool automation products available in the market seem to be too expensive to justify the benefit. At this point I simply want to setup a schedule to control my pool pump, I’m not interested in any other fancy capabilities like chemical automation, heater control, waterfall control, etc.

I have a Hayward 1HP pump with the following specs: KW .82, Volts 115/230, Amps 15/7.5

I have a 30amp circuit from the service panel that runs outside to power pump, heater & salt chlorination.

There is a simple on/off toggle switch installed outside which I currently use to manually turn the pump off/on.

What do I need to simply automate my pump using ST? I just wanna have the ability to create a schedule and to remotely turn the pump off/on.


(James Yeo) #2

Caveat - I know nothing about pool pumps. Is it acceptable to leave the switch on and control the pump through the outlet?

If so something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Z-Wave-600-Watt-Outdoor-Plug-In-On-Off-Module-Switch-12720/205786264


(Paul Haskins) #3

IS it wired 100 or 220? Is there a receptacle anywhere or direct wire? Also where (if anywhere ) is the GFCI?

What is your electrical skill level ?


#4

My electrical skill level is novice, I can install 2 or 3-way switches fairly easily but I would say that is about the max of my skill level. My father in-law has more experience but if necessarily I will get a certified electrician. I just need to figure out what is the best solution here.

I believe it is wired 100 but how can I check to be sure? There is no receptacle, it’s direct wired with a basic toggle on/off switch on the outside wall. See pic.


#5

I’ve had my pool for 21 years & have gone thru 3 cheap 1 speed pool pumps. Finally bought a high end Jandy variable speed pump and could not be happier. You can program it to change speeds, off & on,etc. The big thing is, I’m guesstimating that it’s saving about $50 a month on my electricity bill. It is also half the noise of my old pumps. That would not be a “simple way”, but if you have a basic pool pump that’s around 5 years old, you might think about just replacing it.


(Doug) #6

I’m somewhat interested in this also.

Was thinking about an isolated relay module Linear FS20Z-1 but you’d have to put it into a weather proof housing.

You could then put it on a schedule and turn on/off remotely. Says it supports up to 20A.

Problem is you’d have to get rid of your existing switch and then figure out a way to turn it on/off locally, for the pool cleaner in my case.


#7

I also came across this product from another post: http://smartenit.com/product/zbmlc30/

Seems like a potential solution for my needs but hoping to get some expert opinion. Just need to make sure what ever product I end up with can handle the load of the pump, heater and salt chlorinator. I believe though the pump is the only power hungry appliance in my equation, I can’t imagine the heater or salt chlorinator require that much power to operate. The heater just needs enough power to operate the digital user display to turn the heater on/off and adjust the temperature.


(Dale C) #8

Kill the power to the pump switch and remove the cover. Take a clear picture of the inside wiring and upload it here. It will be easy to confirm if you have a single pole switch 115V only or a double pole for two phase 230V. You could also pull the wiring access plate off the pump and take a picture of the terminations there.
For single phase FS20Z-1 is a good choice as @jokerboy suggested.
If you have 230V two phase you could use Aeon Labs Aeotec ZW078-ZWUS. or
Intermatic CA3750 Z-Wave Contactor Module


(Paul Haskins) #9

Or check the breaker box - is it a single breaker or a double?


#10

Here is a picture of the main from the breaker box, does it mean it’s a double?


#11

Here’s a picture of the pump label if it helps.


(Lawrence) #12

I have a 220 Pump on my pool and have been controlling it for over a year with this switch. the 220 has 2 hots and i let one hot go straight to the pump and put the other on the switch as i am now only switching110 that allows the pump to come on when the switch is tuned on to get the full 220.


#13

So I took the cover off the pump and it’s wired for 230V. So I guess my options are between Aeon Labs or Intermatic. When I read the manual for Aeon Labs it indicated that it’s only intended for indoor use. Guess I should go with the Intermatic CA3750 then?

Any other options out there that I may not be aware of for outdoor use?


(Dale C) #14

That is the main for the whole panel, if you could get a picture of the actual 30amp breaker you mentioned above feeding the pool pump. Is it two switches doubled up together so turning one off turns off both? I am assuming it is.

Did you take the switch plate off for a picture? Or get the manufacturer & model number of the switch so I can look it up.

The picture of the pool pump label helps. You can never have too much info for making a decision here. You missed the wiring diagram a bit for me to the right. Pool pumps can have a simply switch inside that is turned to either 115v or 230v to select motor voltage.


#15

Yes, it’s two 15A circuits as well for a total of 30A. Here is a picture from the switch.


(Dale C) #16

Thanks for confirming the breakers. So it looks like you have 230V available to your pool gear. Thanks for the pictures! OK I need to see what is going on inside the box and on the switch itself. Take a picture of the switch wiring so we can see how it is terminated. And on the pump label there is a little wiring diagram to the right that show how to wire your pump, it is missing parts on your first diagram.

It looks like you definitely are all two phase here but this picture is hiding the screw terminals. I just want to verify the wires coming from your breaker panel and then the wires going out to the pump.

So until you verify the back of the switch for me, it appears you have a typical 2 pole manual switch that is switching off both 15amp circuit feeds from the breaker panel to your pool pump. So your solution is to use either the ZigBee HA Metering Dual-Load 30A Controller or the Intermatic CA3750 Z-Wave Contactor Module which are both rated for outdoor use.


(Paul Haskins) #17

Unless something else is powered from that same circuit - you could mount the ST switch inside an turn the entire circuit off. That way could use indoor rated.Could help with coverage if that is an issue.

  • I’d guess there is more though -

(Dale C) #18

Just a little concerned for the device you used and the way you it was wired for your application. I’ll get @JDRoberts to chime in here but I think using the standard switch device for motor control can cause safety issues? Even though it has worked for you in that the pump isn’t running when you switch off one leg of power what you are doing is still supplying 115v to the other leg to your pump at all times. I can’t imagine that is good for the motor that isn’t designed to be controlled that way? Both legs of power should be OFF or both legs to be ON for the standard and proper control method. So I am glad it is functioning for you but I just want to make sure you knew of any risks.


(Dale C) #19

@MPulse That is an excellent alternative to consider depending on what the circuit feeds. Mount any of these solutions indoors possibly next to your breaker panel which would solve the outdoor and any possible coverage issues.

So when you turn off your double 15amp breakers to the pool, does it only power off the pumps or does it do pumps, pool lighting, etc as well?


#20

So here is some further info. The double 15A breaker powers the pump, heater and salt chlorinator. There is a separate 15A breaker dedicated for the pool lights.

If I turn off the double 15A breaker at the panel the pump, heater and salt chlorinator all lose power. Pool lights continue to work as it’s on a dedicated 15A breaker.

If I simply turn off the switch on the outside it only shuts off the pump. The heater and salt chlorinator still have power.

I actually prefer this setup so I would want my z-wave switch to control my pump, i don’t need to automate the heater or salt chlorinator.

Hope that helps.