Replacing Front Door, Need to Remove/Reinstall Schlage Z-Wave Lock?


(Margaret) #1

Hello,

I have a Schlage Z-Wave Connect lock installed on my front door. I have it set up via the Rboy’s app. I was hoping I could just remove the lock and reinstall it on the new door, but according to Schlage’s instructions, I need to completely reset the lock and then reinstall the Z-wave configuration once the lock is physically installed on the new door.

This is not a problem, but I don’t know how to exclude the Z-wave device. I want to make sure I can get the lock reconfigured easily before I remove it from the door.

Specifically I’m wondering about step 6. Are there other steps I must perform? What are they?

Comments? Advice? Thank you!!


#2

Schlage locks go through physical calibration after they are in place, which is why their support is telling you you will need to pair it again.

The Schlage FAQ should help. After you have the lock physically installed on the new door, follow the instructions in Walter’s post exactly. ( this is a clickable link)


(Kirk Hilzinger) #3

Short answer, put the device into “Remove” under settings or put your hub in general exclusion mode.

Then, at the lock, hit the Schlage button, your 6-digit master code, and then I think it is 0 to exclude/pair the device.

I had to that when I replaced my hub. Once I did the general exclusion and that code and option, I was able to re-enter it and pair it back.

The factory reset function does not reset the Z-Wave portion but I am guessing it might do that re-calibration that @JDRoberts was talking about.


(ActionTiles.com co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy) #4

You were given bad information by Schlage support.

If the new door has the bolt on the same side and the same throw distance into the doorframe, there is no need to recalibrate and thus no need to reset it. Actually … I think the throw distance is irrelevant.

Many home’s doors are outside Z-Wave pairing range, so I recommend pairing the lock before installing it - but then you have to simulate calibration before installation and Z-Wave configuration - I found it was sufficient to just hold the lock in the incorrect orientation and block the bolt, and then vice versa … correct orientation and make sure the bolt flows smoothly.


#5

I have to respectfully disagree. Few doors that fit the same frame are in fact identical. Even a slight bowing can change the throw angle. It is common to have to rework the deadbolt when replacing a door even for dumb locks. The Schlage advice is good, I think, and certainly can’t cause any harm.


(ActionTiles.com co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy) #6

When the lock powers on the first time (and/or after a “reset”), the lock determines whether it is a left-side lock or a right-side lock. This is critical calibration, of course.

I do not think it does any other sort of calibration whatsoever. It does not adjust the throw distance (this is set manually with a mechanical toggle in the lock). It does not adjust the angle (not mechanically possible). It does not adjust the force (why? The lock simply assumes the bolt can move reasonably freely and if it encounters too much resistance will simply give an error).


#7

Schlage locks are unusual in that they make a number of adjustments during initial installation. For example, they have two power modes, low-power and high-power. When the bolt is first tested, if it takes two tries to extend fully, Schlage changes a parameter so that it will use high power from then on. High power will drain the battery more quickly, but a lock which is set on low power when high power is needed may not Fully lock or may jam. There are a couple of other adjustments that are made during initial calibration as well.

So it’s not just a matter of pass/fail. Again, Schlage is unusual in this, so it’s not surprising if you haven’t run into it on other smart locks. :sunglasses:


(ActionTiles.com co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy) #8

Good to know.

It is a shame, then, that Schlage doesn’t allow a “trigger power calibration” (or full calibration), without having to also reset and disconnect the Z-Wave network.

I’m not willing to reset my lock just to have it use less battery power, if that means I may have difficulty rejoining my Z-Wave network. I joined both my locks before installation in the door.


(Nathan Curtis) #9

My solution to this was a stupidly long ethernet cable… :slight_smile:

Its in a box and my wife keeps asking why I have it…


(Margaret) #10

Thanks for your comments, everybody! My new door will be installed on Friday, so I’ll post back once I have the lock functioning again. :grin:


(Margaret) #11

Hi, the new door is installed, and the lock is working fine. I just removed it from the door without doing a factory reset or removing it from SmartThings. When I re-installed the lock, everything worked fine. I decided to reset it and remove/re-add it to SmartThings. After all this, the lock is working great, just as it did before. I had to reinstall & reconfigure my device handler and smartapps. A pretty painless job for one device once in a great while. :wink:

Thanks so much for all your advice. Now I’m confident in my ability to exclude and add devices!