Replaced My Existing Security Panel with Konnected Security - My Writeup

I presume you mean “ActionTiles”, not SmartTiles?

To set a PIN for SHM Tile in ActionTiles:

  • Go to the Panel Builder (dashboard editor; pencil).

  • Select Menu - Panel Settings

  • Scroll down to Panel Security and press Enable for Panel PIN Code.

  • You will be prompted for your Password and can set the PIN code.

  • Next; Go to the list of Tiles on the Panel and select the Tile Options menu for the SHM Tile or many other PIN Protectable Tile types like Lock, Garage Door, …

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  • Select Tile Security. There will be a toggle to enable or disable PIN Protection for that Tile…

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pardonne mes faux pas

For those following this thread I just wanted to say I’ve ended up with a Amazon Fire HD 8 tablet when they went on sale for $55 (Amazon Fire Tabs on sale for Prime Members 7" $35 8" $55). I also purchased the subscription to ActionTiles ([RELEASE: v6.7] ActionTiles (formerly called "SmartTiles V6")). Found some stuff online to remove the ads that come on it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJU69Oj7ksU) and install Google Play (https://forum.xda-developers.com/amazon-fire/general/how-to-install-google-play-store-fire-t3486603) which was pretty nice. Also added a “auto launcher” to launch Firefox when the tablet starts up (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autostart&hl=en) and a FireFox add-on that makes it run in full screen (https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/full-screen-for-firefox/).

The tablet comes with a 5v 1amp adapter. My existing wire from the alarm panel to the old keypad was 22ga which is kinda small but that gauge is rated for up to 3 amps so even for the distance (around 30’) it will be more then fine for powering the tablet (https://www.gore.com/IndustrialCableConfigurator/popup_hfr_wirespecs.html). I’ll just hack open a micro USB adapter, cut out the data wires (usually white and green) and use the power (red and black) to get the tablet powered from the panel in the basement. The only other thing is the old panel was slightly taller then the tablet when on it’s side so I’ll either have to fix the wall or what I’m going to try to do is find a small white plastic/abs panel thats slightly bigger then the tablet and put that behind it as a mount. This way it will also look just like the EcoBee with its black face and white mount which is right around the corner from the tablet.

And here is the tablet and what it boots right into (after you swipe the lock screen). Firefox auto loaded in full screen view with my ActionTile “Tablet View” panel displayed:

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I only put my doors statuses and locks on it along with SHM and a couple routines that made sense to click when going in and out. I have some other “views” setup for everything else but don’t plan on using them on this tablet.

I’ll post a final picture once I get the tablet mounted decently.

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Thanks for making ActionTiles a part of your story, Allen!

May I ask a huge favor; could you post a screenshot showing the PIN Input drawer pop-up for the SHM Tile? It’s a feature we were particularly proud to add, (by popular request).

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Sure…

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Although I would suggest a way to have multiple pins and log which was used somewhere accessible from the panel view. Other then that it works pretty well.

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Today I got my Fire HD8 tablet mounted and powered. To start when I pulled the old keypad off it was kinda a mess:

20170923_105202

Plus I had a old sensor to the left with some holes. I hate patching drywall so I was determined to cover all the holes at once and give the tablet a good base. To that end I bought a cheap ($12) Watts 8" x 8" access panel to cover the wall and some Koala tablet holders that @anon36505037 suggested. They make a double sided tap version for $20 and a screw in version for $15. I opted for the screw in since I figured it would help hold the access panel to the wall:

20170923_105247

Used some 6" diagonal cutters to cut off everything raised on the back so it would sit flush against the wall:

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I measured it up to just cover the extra holes I had to the left so thats why the wire/center screws are offset. I then measured up the Koala tabs, drilled through into the wall, put in the drywall anchors, and mounted everything. I also cut a micro USB cable in half and wired one half to the old keypad wires red and black leaving the white and green for a potential chime or buzzer if needed:

20170923_135025

I then used the other half and wired to the same wire in the panel and plugged it in:

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And now its mounted and ready to go. I turned on the developer options to remove the ads and stuff (previous post) and also disabled the screen from locking so it will just stay on this screen indefinitely (turned the lights off because that screen is super glossy):

20170923_135214

Only thing left to do since we apparently can’t rely on SmartThings to add a SHM delay is to install and get the SHM Delay program working. I also purposely mounted the tablet a little higher then centered because I’m debating adding small LED’s to the panel for status along the bottom, using the ST_Anything system to turn LED’s on and off based on statuses in SmartThings. Like red for armed, green for disarmed, maybe a led for each door, etc. Haven’t decided if I want to do that much yet but we’ll see.

-Allan

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Nice writeup and photos setting up the Fire tablet. Should you bump into a motion sensor triggering the alarm during the entry delay, there is now an alpha version of SHM Delay Child that does a true entry delay.

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You might want to consider modding the plate to do QI wireless charging of the tablet.

You could tape this on the back of the tablet. (The micro usb plug is low profile.)

Then probably buy any cheap QI charger for less than $5 and transfer the guts to your backplate. They use usb 5v power.

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Yeah, I looked into that at length simply because they micro USB plug is so small and already at the right angle to hide behind it but I was worried about clearance on the charger part. The Koala hangers are pretty tight and I didn’t want to have to embed it into the backplate or even possibly behind it so I just went with a plug.

I got the tablet when they were on sale for $50 just for this so I figure I’m not going to be moving it. If it was going to be more portable I probably would have gone the wireless charging route.

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I saw the ADT 2GIG Alarm Panel at SDC this past week and noted that it has multiple PINs … and a log.

So it certainly is a reasonable Feature Request. (Though entry/exit delays is a higher priority; but out of our court).

We’d super appreciate the multiple-PINs Feature request to be made on our feedback Forum: https://ActionTiles.com/feedback

Thank-you!

Honest question: for arming couldnt you simply delay the relaying of the command to arm for 30 or 60 seconds? I understand disarm delay is a lot harder (hence entire amartapps designed to get around this SmartThings limitation) but on arming i would think its trivial other then for lack of better terms “scheduling” the sending of the command for a future time.

Yes; we could implement a pre-Arming delay, but figure that addressing half the problem doesn’t really help, so implemention isn’t worth the trouble.

If someone is using an inside tablet to Arm SHM, then it is highly likely they need a re-entry grace delay to Disarm.

What equipment is needed, at a minimum, to integrate Konnected & Scout?

Hello guys,
Sorry if the question is un related, but I wanted see your recommendation for options to power the home control displays- cheap Fire tablets, power outlets are not nearby.For now, I am only focused on using existing old hardwired alarm wiring to power Fire tablets with action tiles(replacing the old Honeywell control displays in Bedroom and living area). What power converters do I use?Old one used AC->16vac->12v dc from board, but I already removed the board.
This one?


And at the display 12v to 5v, 2A? Suggestions ?
Thanks

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Well you can do what I did and buy the Elk power supply which would covert your existing 16vac transformer to 12vdc. The advantage of this is you can reuse your existing battery backup or add one if you didn’t have one. My 2 Konnected boards lasted for over 30 hours on the old alarm system battery during a recent power outage. As for the tablet if you only have two you might be better off just using the plug in adapters that come with it and cutting the USB cord in half like I did. If you have a bunch of them or outlets are at a premium get a 5v power supply just for the tablets. I wouldn’t share power between the Konnected panels and tablets personally.

I don’t have Konnected yet. Just looking for powering tablets neatly, efficiently(?). Now I see how you powered tablet-In your case,110 outlet is inside the alarm control box? looks clean. In my case, 110 outlet is outside and 16vac transformer hooked into it.
So I can use a surge protector and hook my tablet power adapters into its outlets—>cut usb wire portion into half->connect usb red/black to existing alarm red/black wires->connect other usb half to wires at the display and mount Fire tablet with Koala mount(already got). Should work, right?
Thanks a lot.

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Thanks Allan

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I wish I had thought of the terminal strips. My setup is the older DIY, and trying to get the alarm wiring into the jumper wires was a pain.

Do you think you can use the Konnected 5v output to power a tablet instead of buying 12v to 5v adaptor?

I wouldn’t, pretty sure the amp draw is too much. I’d either do what I did with a plug in adapter or buy a 12v to 5v adapter made for that. The Konnected website has one or you can probably find one on eBay.

Thanks. My setup is the DIY to I decided to order the parts from Konnected since I think he really deserves the business. He’s been very generous, his prices are fair and I appreciate that he still supports the DIY folks.

I think I’m going to get the same mounting option that you went with as well. I have an old Nexus 7 sitting around, but all other mounts cost way too much. I’m going to try to wedge a Qi charger back there and use some spacers to create the space.