Ok that’s weird.
Just checking - you’ve done the configuration step? The configuration is set to allow wake up broadcasts of battery, and the code does accept those broadcasts.
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Hi Adam,
Sorry for the late reply.
I have done the configuration. Also added a new devolo switch. Ran the configuration on that as well and same thing. Battery level come up as NULL.
Any ideas?
Tobey
Try holding down all 4 buttons for 2 sec or 10 sec (depending on which model you have) and then press button 2. That should manually send the battery info.
If that works then I guess it’s just a configuration issue and the configuration has not set… it can be tricky
which model do you have?
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I have the Devolo switch. It’s pretty poor quality as the paddles gets stuck and the battery drains. 
Which ones are you using?
I will try the manual battery update and see how it goes.
Tobey
Firstly This is awesome. and much needed in the UK.
But our of the 3 options which is the best of the switches? Devolo, Popp or zwave.me? might as well order the one that will work smoothest.
Thanks
They are all very similar - the important bit for you will be the fitting - if you want to make it look beautiful and ditch any default plasticy rubbish face plate and rocker switch that it comes with then see some info[quote=“AdamV, post:74, topic:29889, full:true”]
Ok I’m going into a bit of detail that you don’t need here because it may be useful to others.
There are basically 2 types of these wall controllers (although a few different brands):
Type 1:
Z-Wave.me Secure Wall Controller
Type 2:
Z-Wave.me Secure Wall Controller 2Popp Wall ControllerDevolo Wall Controller
In terms of face plates and rocker switches, they are compatible as follows:
Type 1:
Busch-Jaeger (DURO 2000, Reflex SI)Kopp (HK05, HK07, Paris)REV (Everlux, Arcada)
Type 2:
Gira (55 Standard, S55 E2, S55 Event, S55 Esprit, S55 Klassix)Jung (AS 500)Berker (S.1 B.3, B.7)Hager (kalysto pur, kalysto art, kalysto stil)Merten (1M, Atelier M, M-Smart, M-Pure, M-Pure-Decor, M-Plan I, M-Plan II)Popp (Forever, Arcada)Peha (Badora)Legrand (Creo)
It is also possible to cut a Type 2 Controllers internal plastic bit to make it possible to fit into a type 1 face plate… which I have done in some places in my house to keep things consistent.
So… in answer to your question - here is one example from the site I mentioned that is compatible with your wall controller, that is metal:
There are other options as well…
Now, in terms of the rocker switches, you have to get one that is both compatible with the faceplate above AND also made for these types of wall controllers… On this site, they label them as for radio controllers… so it can be confusing. Here is an example of a rocker switch which would be compatible with these wall controllers:
It is unfortunately quite confusing - I wasted a lot of money buying different designs both to test the look and compatibility… but it was worth it in the end, I have glass faceplates and chrome buttons and it totally matches the aesthetics of the apartment. It is also possible to get double / triple and quadruple faceplates… which I have used in some places. It is also possible to integrate other devices into the same faceplates… in some places I have a double faceplate that contains one wall controller and one thermostat… very slick - these thermostats fit in them: http://www.heatit.com/
[/quote]
I’ve written on this below:
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Excellent. good to know. Ill buy the Devolo for now as its all included at the best price. if it works. the z-wave.me makes sense as you can get it with no face plate.
Thanks
Firstly. Awesome app and handler. Worked flawlessly.
Will you likely ever setup the app to distinguish on and off. So up will only turn on. And down only off?
Reason I ask is if done right. Smart lighting would not be needed at all.
Not important. Just thought I would ask.
Otherwise works great. Thanks.
With super apps like CoRE existing now, I couldn’t see the point of updating my app to add more possible actions - it’s a waste of dev time. You can do anything possible using CoRE instead of my app or Smart Lighting. I know that smart lighting is supposed to have the advantage of working offline… but my tests show that in practice it never does.
No smart lighting can be a bit hit and miss.
Can CoRE do the dimming function? I use CoRE its not bad. but has its reliability issues too. I am having some performance issues on it. some commands stack up and take a while to take action. not sure why. will have a play.
Still this is the best button option on the market I know of for the UK. So thanks again.
Thanks. When I got into this HA business I couldnt believe how few wall controllers there were… esp in EU - Seems like the most important part, right?
Anyway - if you really need the extra functionality I can add it over the weekend - Personally I’ve stopped using my own app and use CoRe for pretty much everything.
CoRE will have trouble doing the dimming whilst the button is held as my app can do. This is because CoRE has a minimum time of 1 second between actions, where as I can use milliseconds in the code… however ST does not officially support ms and as a result I always found my app to be pretty unreliable for dimming smoothly. This is a system issue and as a result I actually stopped using dimming whilst held for my actions.
I know it seems for a devices that needs perm power it would make sense to make a light replacement switch that connects the switch permanently and has a dumb zwave module in it. maybe one of them emergency override slots to kill all power. this covers most regs. but these battery options also work well and all of the other UK options are US shaped so don’t cover the light hole. Maybe on year they will get it right.
Anyway. Let me play with CoRE first and if its really a pain Ill let you know. I found a lot of the issue is that the Smart lighting try’s to react to a hold action and it gets confused. then 2 processes run and it all gets hung.
Maybe have a hold just do a 15% dim and you have to re dim each time.
The way I do it is I have press up = on (100%), press down = off, hold up = 50% on, hold down = 20%
These are basically the only settings I’ve found that I need. In the unlikely event I need say 35% or something I just ask Alexa. Also I use LIFX lights which are ridiculously bright so the higher % of 50 is stlll very bright. You may need different
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Check out new device handler version 1.7.1 on github. Fixes this battery issue.
looks like at some point Smartthings got stricter about using the createEvent vs sendEvent command - should work now for you. However, because the device doesn’t send the battery all the time, to test that it is now working you’ll have to force it by going into management mode (holding all 4 buttons at the same time until it starts flashing), and then pressing button 2.
Also… another update! 1.7.2 - Fixes the CoRE integration that broke after a platform update
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Argh!! another update 1.7.3 This actually fixes CoRE integration. Hopefully once and for all. You may need to remake the rules though…
Does anyone else have issues where the controller sticks on HOLDING. this happens quite a bit and then stops lights from working for a while.
There are a few reasons this may happen:
- It could be a physical issue - i.e the rocker is getting stuck. - try taking the rocker off and sending the same requests and seeing if it still gets stuck
- Your controller may be too far from the hub / the nearest node. So the initial hold gets sent but the release command does not. I used to have issues like this before I sorted out the Z-Wave mesh in my house
- The controller is just faulty - try my suggestion with point 1. if it still gets stuck when there is no rocker then its almost certainly a faulty device.
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Thanks the rockers are not the issue I can see. And it’s. It not far either. It’s seeking stable. It is more if you ask more than one action too soon I think.