Don’t use EWELINK App thts is HakkingSystem for ChinabiginfomationSites requests.
Quite a few of the device firmwares support changing switch type to momentary. If you’re using the latest firmware I suggest it could be added at some point in the future quite easily, even if not currently.
Hi Eric, first of all, thank you for all your hard work on this. I am wondering if the TH10 can work with the Sonoff digital sensor Si7021. I tried plugging it in and its showing -127deg and nan for humidity. If it wont work, do you have plans to incorporate this sensor onto the TH10?
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hey there.
first time to see this post and I cannot read all that xD
I have dumb switches all over the place and I would like to make em all work with smartthings. from my search, I guess this is the best cheap solution
from what I read here, i guess there are a few bunch of updates on how to do it… will anyone please provide me with the latest step by step
what to buy?
1ch, 2ch, 3ch, dimmers
newest device handlers
(i’m talking about lights)
Hi erocm1231 or anyone else with the knowledge to help me out.
I love this smart devices/smartthings community. No Wizkid here, but I love playing with the sonoff devices. I have a few ( 4 or 5) sonoff devices I have flashed with the smartthings firmware that Eric posted. Now sometimes I read about update’s and extra things you can do with the new update. Question’s: 1. where can I find this update (is this the device handler that needs to be updated?)? 2. Can I check if I having the newest version? 3. If not, how can I get my (old) devices updated?
Thanks a lot for any reply,
Need to integrate an attic fan. I hate going to the attic so looking for a robust and battery free execution. I was first considering EZMultiPli by Express Devices (Z-Wave 115v plug in temperature sensor) + Z-wave appliance switch. It would be ~ $100 for both. Not much of feedback on the EZMultiPli.
Now I discovered Sonoff and I wonder if TH16 + Si7021 temp sensor will do the trick. On paper, it sounds like it will. But will it be robust or buggy? Appreciate any input.
Either one of the devices will be in a metal box to prevent disasters in case they catch fire.
I have the th16 hook up on my pool pump and the th 16 is in a metal box ,you need a good wifi in the attic ,check with your phone 2 bar is ok but 3 or 4 is the way to go ,that the way a set up mine .
For the temp sensor i think the th16 only support those , ds18b20 waterproof temp sensor and am2301 temp and humidity.
Would it be this custom firmware and the device handler that doesn’t support it? Because they list Si7021 even as preffered (most accurate) sensor on their website now.
Dind’t see that new one !! I gess it firmware related , maybe it could work when you choose am2301, they look similar, i could be wrong… I have just look at the spec and the am2301 is rated for -40C to 80 c and the si7021 -10 c to 85 C . The am2301 is better when you live up north , like me in Quebec…
Maybe Eric can answer that one
Actually,both go to -40 C. If you dig deeper in the manuals, you will find the response curve. am2301 is super accurate from +10, si7021 from -10 but both go as low as -40 (different accuracy levels.).
@erocm1231 Will the si7021 and TH16 work with your firmware and DTH?
You can find what firmware your device is on by typing it’s IP address into a browser and looking through the web page can’t remember exactly which menu now.
Then just compare on the github page
Thats exactly what i was trying to do but then i realized that TH10 wont work with the Si7021. When the option was set to AM2301, it will return “nan” for both temp and humidity. When set to DS18B20, it returned -127 deg celcius (the room i was in registered a 28 deg celcius) and returned “nan” for humidity.
So it’s Eric’s custom firmware that doesn’t have the option to work with si7021 ? Because manufacturer supports it and even recommends it over the other 2.
Thank you so much for this post, I bought my units from amazon uk and the box (i think) shows a date of August 2017. Using ‘dio’ I just could not get anything to work after the flash. Changed to ‘dout’ and everything sprung into life.
I’m guessing my box is one of the newer ones, hence the difference in the command
If it helps anybody else, I’m doing this on a mac and the command I used was
sudo python esptool.py --baud 115200 --port /dev/tty.usbserial-00000000 write_flash -fm dout 0x00000 Sonoff.ino.generic.bin
Thanks also to Eric for all his hard work
TrevR
i believe the Si7021 is currently not supported by this firmware. Do hope Eric finds some time to look to upgrade the firmware to support it.
Any luck with this request? I’m trying the same.
I will try to take a picture of the EcoPlug for you, I have 4 of these and rather flash it myself than buying essentially the same ones.
Stay tuned.
Even better, someone already flashed it. Since I don’t know a lot about the inner workings, does the codes needed to be modified?
The discussion is here: Eco Plugs Wi-Fi Controlled outlet by KAB
Has anyone had issues lately with the Sonoff TH10s not wanting to be controlled through Alexa-ST integration? When I try to turn on or off a plug (using “Alexa turn off living room christmas tree”, for example) she just responds “SmartThings is not responding” or something to that effect. If you go into the device in the Alexa app it has “Device is unresponsive” at the top and it is marked as off. Whats odd is that usually the device will still turn on or off but its like the Alexa-ST integration is expecting some kind of status from the device.
I’m using the latest Sonoff Connect SmartApp and the latest firmware from Github for the TH.
On a side note… I have one unit that keeps getting warm and shutting off after it is on for a bit. My Kill-a-watt says the device is only using 2 amps so I need to investigate what is up with that. Needless to say… my experience with these devices as an alternative to Z-wave plugs/outlets has been less than stellar 
Any thoughts?
Well I have apparently fixed the problem. My device was only responding to the TH device type when adding through the Sonoff Connect app. I manually added the generic Sonoff Wifi Switch device handler and then change my switches over to them and now Alexa sees them perfectly. Oh well…
The issue with the particular switch that was heating up happened to be a 3M tape issue 
I had put some VHB tape on the back of the board to affix it inside a box and evidently covered up the ESP8266 causing it to get too hot and reboot. Simply affixing the tape in a different manner remedied the problem.