Yes, yes and yes.
Will it sort momentary buttons and actions, probably not as it can really mess with some of the timings. But I can put it on a future to do list.
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Thank you, this is awesome news! I can’t wait.
I converted out my old RGB controller today for a h801 version which is lighting a 5m strip of 5050 type lights. Everything is working perfectly.
My power source is a 12volt 6 amp output device ( similar to a laptop adapter). However when i reduce the light value down from 100% the adapter starts to hum. It only stops when the light percentage is back to 100% or if only 1 colour is active.
This humming did not happen before with my previous controller. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening and what I can do? I have tried the lights on two different h801 controllers and the humming happens on both under the same conditions.
Thanks
The humming is there because the PWM frequency of the ESP is not very high. From memory I think it is 5kHz. To reduce the sound it should ideally be 10kHz or so since that will prevent a fair bit of power supply hum. There are a few people online saying the ESP can just about manage 10kHz, but means the device may need to get a bit more basic (since it would have less processing time for everything else!).
That said can you check if the hum is coming from the PSU or the controller? I expect it will probably be the PSU (it is caused by the same frequency choice, but has some very different ‘fix’ options). Also if you fancy downloading a frequency analyser on your phone you might be able to see what frequency it is that you can hear (to confirm if it is 5kHz).
Many thanks for the information. I can confirm the hum is coming from the PSU.
I downloaded Advanced Spectrum Analyzer Pro, and turned it on. I turned on the lights at 100% and took this snapshot
I reduced the lights to 50% and the humming exits and took this snapshot
I do notice at the end of the spectrum the 10 kHz range is showing up, which matches exactly what you described.
Based on the above, are there any options to remove this humming?
Thanks
Hi all,
I have now uploaded my firmware changes into my github folder for you to get the firmware and device handler. It is currently still in ‘beta’ as I have only done some testing myself and with one other user (thanks @Steveuk23).
Note, when upgrading firmware you can do this through the IP_ADDRESS/update page and it should all work fine (dealing with different flash sizes for the various chips on this site). However, after flashing it, you will NEED to go to the IP_ADDRESS/advanced page in order to setup the pins which will be used (should default to H801 pins) and press Save. If you dont do this, then the device will not work until you do!!
Some other useful info:
- If you choose a Custom on colour then you can now use a RRGGBBWWWW string to control the boot state of every channel.
- It should be a bit better at resuming colour after a program, but probably still plenty of improvement here!
- If you choose to forward commands from one device to another then you just need to enter the IP address of the device to forward to in the text box (i.e. 192.168.0.95). MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CREATE A LOOP - i.e. dont forward device A to B, and device B to A, or the ESP chip will crash and need a restart.
- If forwarding commands from one device to another, this will not work from the /control page - it will only work when you send the colour/on/off command through ST or using the endpoints like /rgb?value=FF00DDAA30
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ive flashed for the first time on my device and connected to my wifi using 192.168.4.1
now where do i find the advanced page to change the pins?
also i cant see your device handler?
Its there now, I forgot to press save on github to push it.
You need to go to the IP address of the controller after it has joined your WiFi network.
All up and running.
Will be testing it more tomorrow but the new firmware is very handy!
Even though the board correlates the pin identifications of colours and I was able to find corresponding pins on the esp module, the colours where all wrong and the control function was a brilliant aid to correct them.
I actually expect it is still running at 5kHz, since that is the lowest denominator peak that you have, and the others are just harmonics of different components doing different things. Hence shifting to 10kHz would be great if possible as the biggest peak would mostly shift out of audio range.
The biggest improvement I did when the sound annoyed me was to add a load of capacitors on the output of the psu (or even closer to the controller if they are separated by a reasonable length of wire), for these I mean fairly big capacitors, e.g. 16-25V with 1000uF or more. I expect if you add some of them you should notice the sound is a lot less noticeable
Hi There
Can we flash the firmware which can do other things from H801 instead of doing LEDs. May be like switch a fan or open door? Using the code which talks to GPIO pins related to RGB W1 W2.
Thanks
Rahul
I updated the device type and firmware on my LC02 devices. I was able to login to them change the pins for RGBW1W2 and set the rest to 2 since none of those were used. I was able to control them just fine then performed a reboot and now they are not accessible. Any ideas?
I also had a third one that I performed the firmware update on. This time I didn’t change any of the pins. It was also inaccessible after performing a reboot.
Thats strange, I dont suppose you remember what settings you had the H801’s set as? I.e. fade slow or fast/static ip maybe/boot up state/… Perhaps there was one setting you had your set up as, which causes a crash as I didnt check every setting, though still surprising that it would work after the flash initially since it performs a restart at that point too…
Once was set to static, one not changed as far as IP address. I changed the fade speed to fast. Then just the pin changes on one. Oh, I also changed the forward IP on all.
As I said, they were working fine until I used the web page to perform a reboot. Now no matter what I try it seems like they are just not working at all. I tried the unplug / replug trick but nothing. I see the characters J3 on the board but cannot see where to jump. This is an LC02 with the new 8285 mod chip. Even if I could get them to reset to factory settings and come up that would be good. Just not sure why a reboot command would have left them in this state.
I think that is an ST Web IDE bug, Ive had that with a few device handlers in the past, it does it quite rarely but normally should work the second time around. If it still does not work, perhaps try pasting it again.
Was this the first flash from default firmware? Or was this a flash over the top of Eric’s firmware? I wonder if he used different compilation settings on some firmware versions? @erocm1231 did you have different SPIFFS sizes and things for each release? I thought so long as I picked the smallest size 1mb/256k SPIFFS it should work with all devices.
This was over Eric’s firmware. I am not sure what a SPIFFS size is. Sorry. But again, keep in mind that it was working great before a reboot. I would really like to try and clear the settings and see if that can get me back up and running but I am not sure where to do the physical jump.
I just ordered H801s instead of using the LC02s as they seem more reliable and easier to flash. Your new firmware will work with H801s?