i just have one tip/suggestion for you guys
if you have soldered on a pin header
be careful because i thought i moved the wire inside enough before i screwed the case back on on one of my controller but apparently i did not
one of my controllers was working fine for a few days but then it would only stay on blue and W1 channel on when switched on
and i could not control it or even connect to it at all from my browser.
i was going to try and log in through the browser and try to update the FW from there when i noticed it was not working and would only power on to blue and white, W1, but i got no response so i decided to open the controller to try and flash it again from the pin header
once i opened it up i saw the problem , on the underside of the board the header pin i soldered on to the RX had pierced through the red wires insulation when i screwed the case back together , if you have soldered in header pins i would open the controller and make sure the pins are not piercing through any of the wires insulation and shorting
once i pulled the wire away from the pin and plugged it back in it worked again , no permanent damage thankfully
but now i am afraid to screw it back together and wondering about my other controllers
i just have one tip/suggestion for you guys
Not sure if this has been reported before but it seems that when setting one specific color (ie green) with smartapps, that color is mixed with something else. For example, if I use a smartapp to set the strip to green, it is not just green. It mixes in some blue as well. Using the same smartapp, I can set my hue bulbs and strip to green and they actually show green only with no blue mixed in. Anyone else have this problem?
So, I’m beginning to work through a plan of action for implementing this project, I have seen some great photos of folks who have drilled across the cabinet frames, but trying to understand what skills/tricks might be required to solder in such a small space to bridge the newly fished connection wire? Has anyone encountered/solved the notion of soldering short connection wires through said cabinet frames?
don’t solder i didn’t
i used the snap on RGB strip connectors
only problems are that if your strip is not continuous and has been soldered together in places where you want to cut it the connectors won’t fit on and removing the solder is nearly impossible i tried it with solder wick and it would wick up and come off it just ruined the pads and bridged them so i had to cut them off
i just tristed all the wires together and used some heat shrink to connect he wires from the strip/ strip connectors to my extension wire
The red LED flashing would normally indicate power problems since, that is the power LED. It could be some dodgy components on the actual H801 itself (perhaps you received a few bad devices) if you have tried a different power supply and found no problems.
i got a lot of the bugs worked out with using 3 controllers on my cabinet light project
i am trying to get all 3 controllers to act as one but i am still having problems here
can anyone help me ?
One problem i noticed was caused by adding the controller to my Alexa group before i ran the virtual sync smart app.
What happened was it had automatically put all the separate channel virtual switches into the alexa group i had already placed the H801 into.
So i removed the virtual switches for the R ,G, B, W1, and W2 channels from the alexa group and it is a lot better now but i am still having some issues.
One thing that i noticed is that if i try to control an H801 with google that i have a virtual device sync app set up for and have used to make the 5 separate virtual switches
and i ask it to turn on the device then google responds with “ok ,turing 6 lights on” .
So i assume that it is trying turn on the controller and all 5 of the channels virtual switches at once since there are 5 virtual switches and the physical controller that would make 6 devices.
when powering it on i get mixed results
sometimes i get it to end at the W1 channel and sometime it ends at a random color after changing it all different colors first
In the kitchen it gets even weirder ,i have a “room” in google smart home called “cabinet lights” that has only 3 devices, the 3 H801’s but no virtual switches and if i ask google to turn on the “room”
it responds with “ok turning on 16 lights”
so where does it get the number 16 from?
The 3 physical devices ,plus 5 virtual switches for each one is 18 not 16
why does google say “ok turning on 16 lights” ?
could it be something wrong in the DTH ?
it should just say turning on 3 lights
but if i ask it to “change cabinet lights to red” for example it will say “ok turning 3 lights to red” .
I am not sure if this is a FW/device handler problem or just a crappy google smart home issue.
(googles smart home is awful devices can’t even be in more than one room)
But the biggest problem i have is getting all 3 devices to power on when i ask alexa
to turn on the cabinet light group.
Sometimes i get one controller to come on sometimes two and other times all three
it is not consistent at all.
Same goes for changing colors ,it is also not consistent even though i have installed the color coordinator smart app and set one of the controllers as a master and the other 2 as slaves
I now get better results but it is still far from perfect , if the master controller does not change then the other 2 don’t either.
I still have all 3 controllers in an alexa group but i am using the color coordinator smart app as a redundancy it improves my chances to get them all to respond but it’s not perfect also the app does not make the slaves turn on if the master turns on and also if the master W1 channel is switched on the slaves do not follow either
the only thing that seems to work consistently now is the off command
they will all turn off , all 3 at once with either alexa or google
I can’t figure out why turning on is so unreliable though and why switching colors is also unreliable ,anyone have any guesses?
I don’t have anything to say to help with the technical problem but it would be easier for others to understand the writing if you used correct punctuation, formatting, and grammar.
The lack of capital letter, periods, and strangely placed commas made reading very slow and I had to go back multiple times and reread.
Can H801 RGBW be dimmed with external physical button (long press) like Fibaro RGBW?
That can be setup with WebCore or similar.
are wifi devices connected to smartthings inherently more unstable and less reliable than zigbee and zwave ones?
I have read something about the sonoff devices being flashed to work on smartthings not always working and since i am having reliability problems with my H801’s (but mainly only when grouped with other H801’s) i was wondering if it has anything to do with them being wifi.
Not that i have not had any problems with my zigbee devices going offline from smartthings because i have but the H801’s never show as offline they just don’t respond all the time when grouped together
also this may have been asked before but can whoever is working on this project now
add an option to the device handler so that when you ask GH or alexa to change the strip to white that it will switch on the W1 channel instead of giving the simulated white from the RGB
this is really the biggest annoyance i have with this
aside from them not switching on all at once with a voice command
seems like using the virtual sync app to create virtual switches
so i can name the w1 channel as a seperate device to get alexa or GH to switch on the white channel is not a good idea, they both get confused sometimes it adds lots of syntax since the command can not be too similar to the one to switch the strip to simulated white
also when i put the 3 W1 channel virtual switches in a group i have to give the command at least 3 times to get them all to switch on. i feel like if the device handler could be made to switch to the W1 channel instead of giving the RGB simulated white it would solve a lot of problems.
maybe an option toggle like the one for mutually exclusive could be added for if you are using the W1 channel for white along with RGB ?
I think that will depend on each person’s network setup if your WiFi has a strange setup with maybe proxies or you have interference or solid brick walls etc etc then that would affect your Sonoffs and H801.
I have gone through the flashing process and I’ve gotten to what appears to be a successful flash on version 120. I search wifi and it shows up ESP_0 and when I attempt to connect with the password “configme” I get an error for an incorrect wifi password. Does anyone know how to change the password or what other things I can try for the password? I tried 88888888 as I found that online for a different H801 device, but I assume the flash should change SSID as well as Password.
I’ve tried resetting it via flashing firmware again, power cycling 5 times and by jumping the J3 for both 10-20 sec and 20-60 sec.
Not sure if it helps, but when I attach power I only get 3 brief flashes of green led on the controller and then intermittent green flashes every 5-10 sec after that. Never any red leds.
have a ARILUX® AL-LC01 (RGB)
ive noticed that there are a lot of variations out there in regards to chip and gpio pins for colour
my one is a ESP8285
my GPIO pins for colour :-
you can find out yours by using a multimeter in continuity mode and placing test probe from R1-R4 to GPIO locations.
now im rubbish in compiling software so im asking if anyone could compile me a .bin file with the correct GPIO pins for colour above?
Thanks in advance!
Hi all (and @Kash)
I have finished all the changes I wanted to make, and have done a fair bit of testing and everything seems to be working well, hence I will publish it to github this week. The custom pin numbers works in this version, so you can just use a single firmware file for all versions. I was hoping to improve the ‘resume colour’ feature of the firmware, but I havent managed that yet, so that will follow in a subsequent version.
Im new to the community, and having some trouble with the following WIFI/IR LEd Controller and a RGBW Strips.
They are magic home compatible and use the magic home app, it states controller is LEDNet v4
Basically ou the box with the strip plugged in using the IR remote, the R G B is correct in that when the buttons are pressed the relevent colour illuminates. but there is always a dimly lit red along the strip. Now when i press off on the remote it doesnt go off i just get 100% brightness on red, tried two different strips, full rolls and short lengths.
Hope some one can help or as seen this issue before? Ive set it up in Home Assistant and it does the same thing.
Links to purchases
Have i bought the wrong LEDs? pin outs seem the same as the controller, they have built in white LEDs as well as the RGB LEDs
yes but same hardware, i was only querying to see if anybody had had the same issues as it does it standalone.
@cjcharles is your version going to support a momentary button on J3 jumper? I would love to have a bit advanced/configurable functionality (i.e. turn on/off certain color on a short press and dim/un-dim lights on a long press).
I am currently installing my under cabinet lights and have six H801s ready. Will be happy to participate in beta testing, if needed.
I was one of the unlucky ones as well that got the 8285 LC02. I was able to solder and flash all of them and they work, sort of. The colors are all messed up. Three questions.
Will your firmware work on this unit?
Will it correct the colors?
Will it be flashable from the website or will it have to be soldered again?
Thank you for all the hard work.