That doesn’t sound like the right behavior. I’ll check when I get home, but Alexa should only send commands to the RGB channels. To get Alexa to control the W channels you have to create virtual switches for them.
@anthony_rossetti I will try to have two separate options. Mutually exclusive W1 and W2. So either can be turned on or off.
I have a question that i haven’t seen anyone ask.
I have a fibaro rgb controller and would like to know if there is a way to export the color programs from that code into this one? I have tried i cant see anything in the fibaro code that looks like a color program. any help with this is appreciated.
I’m having issues with inconsistencies with colors.
About 9/10 months or so ago I set up my first set of lights. It worked great from the app, but using Google Home or SmartLighting apps to set colors (okay google, change lights to blue… or “Turn on and Set color = Blue”) and the colors would not set correctly. Also, using the color picker would not set colors correctly. And by not correctly, they were WAY off, like green would turn on to red.
One of the users here mentioned to change one of the functions, I think it was huesatToRGB, and it seemed to fix the problem. All was good in the world. I believe @erocm1231 updated this code change to Github.
A couple weeks later I got a second set of lights. Installed these lights and the new lights now did the same thing, colors were setting correctly… but the first set worked fine. I tinkered with it forever, deleted and reinstalled the apps, switched controllers around switched lights around, etc. Eventually “something” I did fixed it… but I have no idea what.
Fast forward to tonight, I got a third set of lights. Hooked them up, guess what… now THIS set of lights had the color problem (The other two were just fine). This time I went and cleared out all of the code in the device handler and pasted the code back in fresh. Did the same for the virtual switch device handler and the smart app. Republished, and it fixed the new light first try.
So long story short, everything is working fine now… but something is clearly wonky. I don’t know if its with my IDE, something cached in SmartThings or on my hub, something that’s in the code, or something gremlins in my house. I did think it was worth mentioning though.
In reply to my post above. I found what the problem is… and you’ll have to forgive my ignorance here as I’m not overly familiar with GitHub especially with its SmartThings integration.
I updated the device handler from the original post this fixed it. I then noticed that the device handler was blue and hovering over it gave the magnifying glass. I saw the diff…and did an overwrite local version. This broke it again. What I was failing to understand is that at some point in time, before I fixed it, I pushed all of my code up to my personal SmartThings fork. The blue was showing my that there was a diff between my fork and my local version (which was now fixed) so i’m sure that in the past that I thought I was updating the code from the correct repository, but in reality was simply pulling the broken code back down. I did a “commit changes” from the IDE and pushed the correct version of code up to my repository so I’ll no longer get the magnifying glass and the temptation to overwrite my code again.
@DatTech @Behold81
So Ive been having a play with the new Arilux controller and it seems there are quite a few differences that make this quite difficult to flash (but possible if you fancy a challenge).
Based on this you can flash the chip by soldering the cables as shown in the picture below and using the Flash Download tool from ExpressIF - http://espressif.com/sites/default/files/tools/flash_download_tools_v3.6.1.0.zip
You will need to select the 8285 as the flash chip (which will automatically change some parameters), then fill in the settings as in this image (after choosing your COM port):
If you do this then you should get a successful flash, but be careful when soldering the pins of course as they are a bit fiddly! Note that I soldered the white cable for 3V3 power to the FTDI, but after discovering the back conduction issue I left it disconnected while flashing.
Wow. Glad it was not just me being stupid and doing it wrong!!! Wondered why it was not powering as a starting point.
Shame they have not made it easy to setup.
But I take it you have tested the firmware works perfectly if you use it this way?
Thanks but I already got some H801’s that I flashed and are using, I love geeking out but I’m busy right now and just wanted this done and over with maybe sometime ill get around to playing with these 
The firmware works and i can see the outputs turning on, but I haven’t tried with strip lights or OTA upgrades. I expect they will be fine but maybe I should test before I try and find the plastic case.
I agree its a shame they have made it like this as it does make it far less resellable!
Hi guys. Is anyone using these new arilux controllers successfully, i have flashed mine (it’s an rgb one) and i have it up and running, the lights come on and off but they are not controlled in the correct order. My red is red, the green does nothing when i turn the blue on i get green and the when i turn on w1 i get blue. Obviously there is no way to change these around. Is anyones else’s like this, or is it just mine. I am going to order some H801 but they will have to come from china, i can’t find any in the UK.
Thanks @cjcharles the H801 you sent is working a treat.
All setup and Automating. Although I’m not sure the strip I have used is the best. needs a diffuser I think to make the mixed colours better. I need to setup a second strip too as it does not quite go far enough up my path.
But so much nicer than the Floodlights blinding me and taking half the pitch black garden to turn on. I open my door and I can see!
What model of Arilux controller do you have? Perhaps post a picture of it.
Anyone hearing a high pitched “modem” like sound coming from their H801?
For the last couple nights I’ve been chasing this very faint high pitched sound around my living room. I was convinced it was coming from one of my AV devices, but come to find out tonight, its my H801controller. It emits a high pitched electronic noise and the pitch changes as the colors of the light change. I’ve got 3 of these H801 controllers in my house… the one that was making the noise is my oldest one and also happens to be on the weakest power supply. The second oldest one also makes a noise, but I have to get my ear a couple inches away to hear it. The third and newest makes no noise at all. I’m wondering if its power supply related or if the electronics are just degrading over time?
Try with 100 % on two colours, and then connect the same two colours directly to the power supply. If the noise stops then you know it’s the h801… Could definitely come from both devices but I’d be surprised if the h801 changed (I.e. Used to make no noise) as the pwm frequency won’t have changed
Looking for advice on a high WAF (wife acceptance factor) LED under cabinet installation. I really need the system to be operable by a wall switch, while also being operable by Smartthings automation. Options I have come up with so far:
H801 with external momentary switch connected to J3. Unclear what happens when J3 is cycled.
H801 with power supply connected to Zwave on/off switch. Unclear what happens when you power cycle the H801.
Fibaro with single external switch connected to all 4 inputs. I’m really not clear on what happens when the 4 inputs are off and then back on.
Fibaro with power supply connected to Zwave on/off switch. Unclear what happens why you power cycle the Fibaro.
In all 4 cases, if any of these do not return to their original color state and brightness after being cycled with the switch, they are a no-go. Let me know your thoughts based on experiences with these, and let me know if I missed any other better solutions. Thanks!
Hi I know this thread covers an LED strip, is there anyway to control a smart life (tuya smart) light bulb with smartthings and if so how, does the bulb firmware need updating or can a device handler just be added to control the LED Smart life light bulb.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Sim
There are a few people who have flashed the firmware onto a bomb, but it was quite involved from what I remember. Suggest searching writhing this thread and if you have no luck I can take a look too.
Thanks for the reply, I’ve been searching a few days for that sort of info. 
Hmm, youre right that it wasnt in this thread… I found this linked from the thread https://www.cnx-software.com/2017/03/03/ai-light-esp8266-based-wifi-rgb-light-bulb-supports-mqtt-via-espurna-open-source-firmware/ which will give you some things to go on. The exact process will depend on what bulb you have. Though the H801 firmware linked in the first post will work, it just might have some tweaks needed. The tweaks would be changing which pin controls what colour, since they have probably used different pin ordering, though once you have the firmware loaded you can easily update through a webpage rather than faffing with an FTDI/serial flasher.
Check this out. 
It uses a wall mounted Z-Wave dimmer, a constant voltage line level dimmer that outputs 12v, and direct wired LED strips. Standard wall switch operable by anyone, whether or not they are aware you have a smart home and fully controllable by SmartThings. Ours turn on whenever we walk into the kitchen.
Hi Eric. Here are some pictures of the Arilux that i have. The board is totaly different from the other’s that i have. I have flashed it by soldering direct to the wifi chip. Like i said it works fine apart from the colours are out of sequence to the software. It has a different chip on board, it has and esp 8285. I now have some H801 to replace it and they are working fine.
Thanks
