[OBSOLETE] SmartLife (H801) RGBW LED Strip Wifi Controller & Bulb

Devices & Integrations Community Created Device Types
1471

Hi All,

Been reading this topic and get so excited that I bought the bits and started my own setup. I was able to follow the flashing bit and also configuring h801 as an access point, thank you @ erocm1231 @michaelahess @dalec for your guides!!. Now comes the seemingly simplest thing that i can’t seem to figure out (i know, and i thought i wasn’t that stupid… lol)…

Quote from @michaelahess: “…After that’s done, install the SmartApps and Device Type in the first post. Go to your marketplace in the ST app and add the SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect) one, then…”

Is this “SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect)” that’s always referred to in this topic as smartApp, downloadable in Google Play? If yes, maybe i cant seem to find it as I am in Australia? I am trying this using my wife’s Samsung Galaxy s6. Appreciate any help from this side of the world.

1472

SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect) is the smartapp that you install via copying the code and pasting using the web IDE.

1473

As @cuboy29 says, install it like a device handler, and then you need to run it in the SmartThings app, go to the automation tab and look for the smartApp tab, press Add and then scroll to the bottom were you will see a ‘My Apps’ section. Once installed it is easier to find! I got stuck with this when I first got SmartThings!!

1474

Hi All,

I am stumped why I can’t connect to the controller via the WIFI connection. I flashed it successfully, setup my controller through the entire process initially, but found that it kept dropping wifi connection, so I reflashed the controller. After reflashing, I see the controller on my Wifi connection list, (esp…), but every time I connect to it and enter “configme”, it says incorrect password. Anyone else have this issue? I tried with my phone and PC.

Also, I have a second controller that I flashed, and it is acting like it was never flashed. It doesn’t show up in the connection list to even try to initiate a connection.

I have tried re-flashing both controllers several times, but still have the same issue.

I don’t know what else to do, help please.

1475

Thanks will try these tonight… [quote=“cuboy29, post:1472, topic:51182”]
copying the code and pasting using the web IDE.
[/quote]… smartThings app… all foreign language to me, yet.

So there is no Google Play Android app download involved. :slight_smile:

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How to…Install App

Go to My SmartApp in IDE
Click “New App +”
Click “From Code”
Copy from Code From Github
Paste into textarea on SmartThings
Click Publish > For Me

Then from ST Mobile android app, click on Automation then select SmartApps then scroll to the bottom to see + Add a SmartApp then scroll to the bottom and select My Apps. Here you can find the SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect)

And that is how you add a smartapp from start to finish.

have fun…

1477

Cheers @cuboy29!

This is what i have in mind if things work out: i want a backlight in my TV (color i can choose from rgbw) that is in “breathing mode” when TV is off (i will play with code and delays until it fits my actual breathing when relaxed). When the tv is turned on, it light will become constant in ththe same color or white, like it suddenly woke up. I will hook up a sound sensitive device (aready have this music controller) to it then so that when i play music or movie, it will flash with the subwoofer, similar to the Lightning video posted in here. When i turn off the TV it goes back to breathing mode.

Hope the vision above, and your support, drive me enough to figure things out :slight_smile:

1478

Might sound daft butt is your caps lock turned off and you’ve not left a empty space after the password?
I’ve not had a issue before with the password side of it and we all use the same firmware.

1479

Can someone please check my logic here:

(My use case is above cabinet lighting)

  1. Purchase light strip LINK
  2. Purchase wifi controller LINK
  3. Flash the firmware on the controller to make it compatible with smartthings
  4. Add device to smartthings
  5. Profit :slight_smile:

Since my cabinets have a middle part that is taken up by the exhaust hood for my oven, I will need to cut the lights into 2 sections, meaning I will need 2 controllers and 2 power supplies. In the ST app I would group the lights using the DH listed in this post, right? If that is correct can someone recommend a good 2nd power supply since this light bundle only comes with 1?

Thank you for all the help!

1480

Why not just buy the RGBW extension cabling and tuck it behind the vent area, using only one controller for all lights under the cabinets?

I have a stove vent and a window/sink area that I had to traverse to cover all my lighting wants. Just bought the extension cabling and soldered it to each light strip.

Heres an example.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746

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1481

good idea. This would allow me to only buy 1 controller and not have to worry about grouping, right?

Everything else would remain the same?

1482

Correct. Since all the lights would be connected to each other, they’d all be on one controller. I wish I could find pics of my setup to show you, but I cant access Google photos from work. Im certain I added a short video in a topic here. Let me search and see if I cn link you to it.

@jbeck22, heres a photo of my obstacles. Its been running great since I installed it!

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What you cant see in the photo (or barely) is that I actually installed channeling and LEDs under the window ledge, so it lights up the sink area as well. The cabinets to the right are also lit up. I wish I would have just installed LEDs above the stove, against the back wall, but you get the ldea.

That extension cable I linked, works great for traversing between the corner cabinet as well, so you dont have to try to bend the LED strips in a flat 90 degree angle, go thru the cabinet frame, and continue on. Only a small hole was needed in the cabinet frame, to pass the extension cable from one section to the next!.

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how did you hide the wire to light under the cabinet on the right side of the picture?

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During this project, I redid my backsplash. The extension wiring goes:
from the cabinet to the left of the sink, flat against the wall behind the tile
Sink lights
Up the wall, behind the tile to the final cabinets on the right side of pic.

My controller is attached to the bottom of the far left cabinet using double sided tape. The LEDs are placed in an aluminum channel with a diffusing cover and held to the cabinets with double sided tape as well. Any drooping of the extension cabling was also fixed with double sided tape.

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Right now the W1 & W2 are considered a group and the RGB are considered a group in the mutually exclusive setting. So you are wanting things to be as they are, but W2 to act as an independent channel?

@rocksethi I really have no idea on that one (other than the caps or the extra space before and after that were mentioned). The configme password is hard coded in and hasn’t ever changed throughout all my releases. I’ve never had a problem with it and have probably entered it in a thousand times.

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[quote=“anthony_rossetti, post:1487, topic:51182, full:true”]
Yes exactly , I got things working great with Alexa so far

I can add the controller to my kitchen group in Alexa smart home and when I tell her to change kitchen light red the hues and the controller turn red

So. This is perfect for when I get the other 2 controllers for the kitchen cabinets, i can just group them in alexa smarthome

i would like mutually exclusive W1 and RGB and then W2 as a separate device for the following reasons

One wall where the cabinets are is opposite a wall for a hallway where there is a small battery operated led wall sconce ,I wanted to use the RGB and W1 channels for the cabinets and drill through the wall and connect the sconce to the W2 channel ,I plan on setting it to trigger after dark by a motion sensor since the sconce is in the hall where the bedroom and bathroom doors are

I also plan on using 2 other controllers in the bedroom

One for the bed and one for strip around the TV and I want to

Use the W2 channel for a black light strip for the bed and TV and have RGB and W1 as mutually exclusive so i can control everything with alexa

W2 should work For black light strip right ? I mean it just has on and off and dim not anything specific for driving white only ,W2 should be able to drive a black light strip correct?

I would like the W2 channel to Show as a separate thing so I can use it with Alexa for the black lights and the hall light

And use a PIR for the hall light on W2 also

Also will programs show up as things? And is there a way to add more than 6 ? why is there a limitation of 6 preset programs and can i it be increased?

because I am trying to find a way to use an ifttt recipe I have been using with my hue br30 recessed lights with the controller instead , ifttt recipe ,change lights to specific color is weather condition changes to X and other ifttt recipes that change the color for different events

And for other color changes for ifttt recipes

1489

Just checking to see if you ever had any luck with this. I tried again with different FTDI chips and a new set of AC-L02 chips and I still get the same baudrate errors. I even tried on another clean Win 10 machine and still the same result. I got all the correct setting, but no luck.

1490

Hi. I never did get it to work. Someone a lot smarter than me will need
to figure it out.

1491

Is it possible to keep the white channels mutually exclusive from the RGB channels?

Whenever I turn on the landscape lights, I don’t want the white floods to also turn on automatically…

If I say “Alexa, set the front landscape lights to red”, the lights turn on, turn red, but the white channels turn on as well.
If I say “Alexa, “””"" to white", the RGB lights turn white, and the white channels kick on in addition…

How do I break these apart? I am using the latest firmware and device handler.

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