[OBSOLETE] SmartLife (H801) RGBW LED Strip Wifi Controller & Bulb

Hi guys, my h801’s have been fine but both of them have now started to flash the lights every second for around seconds and then go into a strobe mode and will not turn off.

Any Ideas ?

also how do i reset to change the wifi ?

cheers

Suggest testing a few things:
Firstly try a full power cycle of everything (ST, power supply for H801)
Secondly change the power supply and see if that improves things.
Thirdly try running them from the webpage rather than through ST, do you get the same effect?
Fourthly try flashing the firmware again, using the latest version at the top of this post (you can do it through IPADDRESS/update).
Fifthly, try ensuring the device handlers and apps are correct/up-to-date - Im not sure if you have Github integration but perhaps some of the code got updated and some didnt

Hopefully you will not reach the point of needing a sixth idea as I am out!

Hello, first off thanks for all the amazing work on this! After some struggles I have finally successfully flashed my MagicHome Arilux controller and have it working wonderfully in SmartThings. I have one small issue though where my green and red channels are reversed.

My LED strip has a pre-soldered end on it so I’d really prefer not to mess with putting a new end on it if possible. Is there a simple way in the device handler or something to swap the red and green channels around?

Thanks!

I’m pretty sure that I added this option to all the different device firmwares:

image

@anthony_rossetti Use the “Virtual Device Sync” app to create virtual switches for each channel. Then you can just say “Alexa, set Kitchen Cabinets White to 50%” (or whatever you name the virtual switch).

You can program up to 6 programs. To keep the three strips in sync (if you are not running them off the same controller), you would have to use something like Color Coordinator (I think that is what it is called). Any way you can just connect all the strips to the same controller?

My apologies. Totally missed that, works great! Thank you!

nope i can’t connect them all to one controller because the way the kitchen is laid out
running wires would be impossible, but i don’t need anything fancy i just want to be able to use alexa to set them all to the default smart things colors like i have it doing now
like i can set my HUE lights to colors by using the ST skill and just saying “alexa turn kitchen recessed lights to blue” and then the 4 HUE BR 30’s in the group all turn blue ,so wouldn’t these behave the same way? if i add the 3 controllers to the same group in alexa smart home and say “alexa turn cabinet lights blue” where cabinet lights is the name of the group in alexa smart home
it should behave just as my HUE lights right and turn all 3 blue?
of course this will be a problem for the white channel because you say i would need to set up a virtual switch right.

one question about the virtual switch ,what if i just want to set a virtual switch for the white channel
and i want the RGB channels to function as they are now ,can i just set up a virtual switch for one channel without it affecting the other RGB channels?
and if i set it up then what about the syntax? don’t virtual switches need to use "alexa turn on"
instead of just set?and if use either one to activate a virtual switch for the white W1 channel and i say “alexa turn kitchen cabinet lights white” then would it do what it does now when i say that (ie turn the RGB to a purplish color) and also turn on the W1 channel ? would there be a conflict since ST and the ST skill already respond to that same command natively by turning the RGB to the purplish color?

also would it be difficult or even possible to edit some lines of code in the device handler or the FW.ino or both to make it so that saying turn white or set to white would
switch off the RGB channels and simultaneously switch on the W1 channel and then have it switch off the W1 channel when you request a color setting instead of having it try and do white with the RGB?

This happened on mine after a power outage… I followed this. .
This method might be easier to do with a surge strip with a button attached. Unplug controller and plug back in. Within 2 - 5 seconds after plugging in, unplug and plug back in. Repeat this process 4 times. You can know you are doing it correctly because on the second plug in the LED Strip will light up GREEN, the third it will light up BLUE, and the fourth it will light up RED. After it turns RED, you can just leave it alone. The little red led will blink 5 times slowly and then the RED LED strip will start to flash as the storage is being wiped. After that is finished the LEDs will turn off.

Then I connected to the AP and set wifi back up

I’m desperate for a low cost RGBW LED light strip solution, but I think this might be a tad bit beyond my skills (I’m on a Mac, copy-paste is the extent of my coding skills, and my sodering skills are messy). Has anyone thought about selling a pre-flashed unit?

it is not really that hard you just need some patients
you do not have to code anything you just have to copy and paste
my soldering is not that great either but i did do good job soldering the header pins to my FTDI adapter , the soldering of the 4 header pins to the h801 was not as easy i had a cold solder joint ,for some reason the solder on that board just does not want to flow at all

i plan on buying more and flashing them and i have a great idea but i need a little help

i want to rig up a simple jig using 4 pogo pins but i am not sure which size pogo pins and which head type would be best for the holes on the h801

it is really not that bad to solder though ,might be easier if you clean the board before hand maybe try and sand off the shellac or try a solvent ,maybe some nail polish remover on a q-tip around the holes before you try and solder on a header

i got the OSEPP FTDI from microcenter and it worked fine for the job
it is only a matter of connecting 4 wires , and posting a few lines into the CMD prompt on windows
i suggest you use windows but then again i am practically OSX illiterate

I didn’t solder mine…
Just held the headers in place while it flashed.

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I hear you. I guess the one thing I’m missing are easy instructions on how to do the flash on a Mac. I’ll re-read all the tips here and on the Sonoff thread to see if I missed it.

Hi guys I’m being a bit think today.
I’ve only ever used my H801 with RGB but today I wanted to try just a white LED strip.
I can’t get it to light up though lol but I’m not actually sure where the 2 wires connect when it’s just white on it’s own.
I’ve connected both to the W1 and W2 and also 1 to W1 and the other to the vcc.
I’ve got the power on fine.
Cheers

here is how i have mine wired for RGBW strip

i hope you didn’t use the VCC terminal on the right side of the controller

i used the green wire to extend the white wire for the white channel and connected it to W1
just connect one wire to W1 and the other one to VCC on the left side

Yep that’s what all of my RGBW ones look like, I tape the extended wire down to the unit so everything is nice and clean, so nothing snags on it. Really wish they’d just put 5 or all 6 outputs on one side!

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Cheers turns out I had it the right way like yours but I’d not fully secured the cable into the connector noticed because it fell out lol.
Just need to get some cable to extend it as I don’t want the controller near the start of the LED lights.
Hoping I can pick some up locally not sure what what ratings they use.

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You’ll be able to get away with pretty low ratings as it will be a short distance. From most cable shops you can get slim profile 0.75A cable and that will be fine for a few meters (and in fact for longer really as the voltage is so low - but you might get some dimming due to the voltage drop in the cable)

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i plan on using some cat 5 for mine i know it has been discussed in this thread before i think
it seems thick enough to me but i could double it up to be sure ,use 2 wires for each connection instead of 1
but i also only need short distances to put in break and route around the microwave
maybe about 2 feet give or take on each side
and another length to wire the above the cabinet strip

that 4 color wire that comes on the strip connector seems like it is thinner than cat 5 to me
and the stuff they sell for extension wire looks to be the same to me too
yeah it is braided and cat 5 is not , but cat 5 is solid copper and the RGB/W extension cable looks like cheap tin of something,not sure what it is but it is not copper at least the one that came with my strip on the connector anyways it may come different conductor and different gauge

i am only using the cat 5 because someone gave me a huge spool of it a long time ago and i still have a ton left even though i use it for just about everything from wiring my surround speakers (doubled it up here) to moving my doorbell ,to wiring some 12v AC halogen puck lights(also doubled it,and replaced halogen with LED) ,to wiring wreath light on my front door to a transformer in the basement , to some LED halloween projects , to jumper wires for breadboard projects

really great and versatile stuff ,but i do find it does break if you bend it too much, but i have so much i just replace it if it breaks ,i don’t how many feet the spool is but it seems like it will never run out

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There are so many types of ethernet cable, just be careful as it is not designed to carry much current at all, and often is CCA (copper coated aluminium) and hence even worse at carrying current unless you get high quality stuff.

@erocm1231 ok i found out that the RGB W mutually exclusive option was added already , sorry the post was in mid thread i must have missed it , this is great

i just have one more question though does the mutually exclusive option go for both the W1 and W2 channels?

would there be a way to change that if i wanted only one of the white channels on the H801 to be mutually exclusive?

i plan on using 2 or 3 in a situation that would benefit from having W1 or W2 mutually exclusive with RGB but having the other channel independent

I am setting up my first controller and I see the esp wifi in my connections, but every time I enter “configme” using my phone or my computer, it says the password is incorrect. I can’t seem to get it to connect to the connection. Any ideas? That is with the first controller, and on the second controller, I can’t get it to even show the esp connection in my wifi manager.

Thanks in advance!