So I jumped back into this, and tried the fix. I followed the video, and everything looked good while doing it… The flash erase message, then the bar across the bottom while the lights flickered on the board, but at the end it said error downloading. I tried multiple times, even doing the QIO first.
When I remove the solder and get it out of programming mode, then power it on, I will see the small LED blink blue, but I don’t see the wifi SSID.
Any suggestions? Thanks to all!
Hello could somone pls share some instructions on how to do this awsome LED implementation with an NodeMCU ESP8266 board like for example the Wemos D1 min V2 by using perhaps these Arduino scetches and libraries to interface then with Smarthings? Announcing the "ST_Anything" Arduino/ThingShield Project
You should be ok to flash the H801 firmware onto a NodeMCU/Wemos without any problems. Then you just need to add the power driver circuitry. Im not sure off the top of my head which pins are used by the H801 (and hence you would need to use), but you could have a quick look on some google images to check.
EDIT, from a quick look at some online images of the H801 I can see it uses ESP pin 14, 12, 13, 15 for B-, G-, R-, W2- (I cant see the W1 pin since it is obscured by the chip, but a quick check of the pins when on will give you the answer). The ESP pins above correspond with NodeMCU pins 5, 6, 7, 8 (which probably means W1 is indicated by pin 9 on the NodeMCU or ESP pin 3).
Can u post the links for the flashing tool and the firmware pls? for the nodemcu.
Thank u so much for this i will try!
Also how do i modify the FW parametes for my number of LEDs in my strip?
Btw i am using individualy adrressable WS 2812b led strips so i guess i will use only pin 9 on the nodemcu for signaling? WS2812b LED strips use only one pin for signaling so would the FW file work on them?
Power driver circuit? The ws2812b i drive from a 5v 2A PSU with a 1000uF capacitor acros + and GND
This firmware will not control individually addressable LEDs. That is new to SmartThings and you would need to code that entirely yourself on the NodeMCU using a base layer from the link you mentioned.
So on the programs you can choose to change W1 & W2 individually. If you set the duration between the two actions to 100 milliseconds then it probably will look like it is changing them at the same time (especially with the fade transition).
Finally got this setup and it appears to be working great. Since I had never done any updating of firmware quite like this I was a little intimidated by the process, plus all the firmware update examples were from Windows PC’s and not a Mac. Anyway, once I loaded drivers (here for the Mac: https://www.silabs.com/products/development-tools/software/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers) - I found the firmware update was just two lines at the terminal - pretty easy once I loaded esptool from github (https://diyprojects.io/esptool-update-of-firmware-nodemcu-esp8266-on-macos/#.WZlQkpOGPfA).
So the device handler is now installed and working, the strips come on and appear to be working fine.
How do I rename the device? when I go into the connect app I see the option to rename, I choose a new name and text that says to click next - but my only option here is Done, there is no next button.
For some reason that doesn’t work on iOS. You can find the device in your things list and rename or there.
I have flashed 2 h801 controllers and I would like to know what the group recommends for RGBW led light strips as well as power supplys. I am needing 30 or 35 feet run.
Hi @erocm1231
Do you know of any issues in trying to capture and restore attributes with your firmware on the H801?
It’s just I’ve been getting help of a guy with WebCoRe to turn it on green for 5 seconds then restore the colour and state to what ever it was beforehand.
So he said I have the settings right with capturing/restoring attributes to local state but it never restores it they just stays green.
But I have also noticed that it doesn’t always come back onto the same colour it was beforehand even in normal use , and I have the sething enabled for it
Thanks
I get the same problem sometimes. I updated the firmware on one unit and that seems to have fixed it, but that was only recently so it hasn’t had much chance to reoccur. What firmware version are you using?
I’m not sure what version it is 
Is there a way to check it remotely as I’m at work ?
It could be out of date I flashed the latest on there about 6 weeks ago.
You need to go to the webpage of the h801 and you can check it there under the status page I think. If you have a VPN or remote access to a pc you can check, otherwise it will have to wait till you’re home.
I’m on 2.0.6 not sure what the latest version is can’t tell looking on the github.
And for some reason I can never add Eric’s github to my IDE
What does your WebCoRE script look like? I can try to replicate it on my end.
Thanks
I’ve tried multiple variations now the cmz02 was the latest.
I’ve noticed if the controller is not on when the piston runs it will turn it off but if it’s on with any colour it won’t restore the colour but will flicker after my 10 second wait like it has tried.
download|690x359
Does anyone know what the maximum operating temperature is for the H801? Thinking about installing it in an enclosure in a garage (in Texas) but didn’t want it to overheat. I can see what the individual chips are rated at but not the overall device.
Alternatively, I could install it further away but there would be roughly 25 feet (maybe less?) between the device and the LED strip. However each LED strip would only be 3 feet long per channel.
Any advice or ideas?
Without knowing the maximum temperature of your garage it is hard to say for sure. That said I can imaginethe garage gets really hot, in which case it would be better to install the H801 outside of the garage, and then run a cable into the garage. So long as the cable is well rated (e.g. at least 1.5mm^2 copper cable) then it will work fine.
C
Good point, the actual maximum temperature of the space would need to be known and I have no idea. I think I’m going with the “remote installation” option instead to be safe and just run the wires from the H801 to the LED strip location in the garage. That will also make it easier to service/re-wire/etc the H801 in the future should it be required.
Thank you 
Hi guys
@erocm1231 is there anyway of resetting the wifi on the H801?
My Wi-Fi messed up at home and for some reason my sonoff devices and this stopped responding on my SmartThings app.
So with the Sonoffs I reset the wifi by holding the button in and re added them.
How do I do that with the H801 ?
