I imagine you will need to hold down a pin in order to get it to boot into a flashing mode (though some chips dont need it since they use the serial chip to do it. I dont have one to hand at the moment for testing, but suggest looking at the h801 to see which pin it is, and then trying to replicate it on the Arilux. That said the Arilux firmware may be different so that you dont need to do it…
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Got my new ftdi and with a clear head managed to flash it 
if you were getting the same error I did, swap rx and tx on the ftdi.
@erocm1231 Many thanks for your work on these devices!
After much handling of the arilux I broke one of the power wires on it (I guess its not designed to be swinging by its wires lol) not a problem but because the size isn’t an important factor for me I personally prefer the h801 over it, it feels more robust and much easier (for a non techie) to handle and work with.
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I changed up the use of my H801 unit last night, and I’m adding a couple more to the mix once they arrive.
The original H801 was set up at the front door with the Supernight RGBWW LED strips. I removed those and moved them into the theater in the basement as some under-coffee table lighting for decoration and foot path lighting while watching movies.
As of last night, those are disconnected for now, as I’m starting on our landscape lighting project out front. I’ll be mounting three of the H801 units in a weatherproof direct burial outdoor enclosure along with a 120 watt 12v power supply and running the cables out to several 10 watt RGB LED landscape floods for lighting the house and accent lighting the trees and other features…
I did some testing with a single light last night at dusk against the front of the house.
The light is approximately 4 feet from the home in the tests, but will be buried in a recessed pipe about eight feet out to broaden the range and provide fewer dark spots.
Here’s a good test of the color range against the house. The yellow color in the fourth picture down is JUST blue/green… It gives a really warm color ideal for standard lighting. I played with some of the patterns last night like the “Police” and “Fireplace” functions. (In a related note, has anyone else come up with extra patterns? I’d love to give some new ones a try.)
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Looks great! I saw you had some white tubing, possibly heat shrink? If so, do you mind sharing what size / ratio and where you got it from? I’d like to do the same but have been having problems finding the right size and quality. Also, what method did you use to mount your controller and power to the wall? I’ve been using Command strips for mounting boxes on some other small Home Automation projects but I’m wondering if they will be heavy duty enough for the power bricks. Thanks. Your project looks great!
@erocm1231 I was wondering if we could possibly put together a thread for community generated programs, or toss the info for your great work onto the Things That Are Smart wiki, and place programs there for easier access?
I’ve been working on some custom programs, such as a fairly accurate color loop a la Philips Hue color loop style.
I think I finally got it. 24 steps, half a second each at full brightness results in this…
The program is here:
RainbowFull,false,24,-1_Custom.00E5A4.1.500;Custom.00E36D.1.500;Custom.00E136.1.500;Custom.00E000.1.500;Custom.34DE00.1.500;Custom.68DC00.1.500;Custom.9CDB00.1.500;Custom.CFD900.1.500;Custom.D7AE00.1.500;Custom.D67900.1.500;Custom.D4450.1.500;Custom.D21200.1.500;Custom.D1001F.1.500;Custom.CF0050.1.500;Custom.CD0081.1.500;Custom.CC00B1.1.500;Custom.B500CA.1.500;Custom.8300C8.1.500;Custom.5200C7.1.500;Custom.2200C5.1.500;Custom.000CC3.1.500;Custom.003AC2.1.500;Custom.0068C0.1.500;Custom.0094BF.1.500
I’d love to be able to hit a page and see a bunch of community driven programs…
On that note, the Lightning program: How would I go about getting these RGB floods to be the source of the lightning flashes, rather than the White channels? I have not yet figured that out.
With two controllers for the front yard, I’m able to synchronize them pretty closely, but I can also separate them, color-wise and add some fun effects… I’ll be adding a third controller for the lights, so I can do Red/White/Blue for 4th of July, and add even more variety.
Of all of my home automation projects, this is by far the most fun and exciting one for me. 
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@Synthesis Looking good. It would be great if you can add them to this document as everybody can use and update easily as needed.
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Looks great! Mind if I ask which RGB floods you went with?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3UHFMK
My plan is to have them come on at a low level in a warm white color when we arrive home after dark or for accent on some evenings. The color is more for the special occasions, such as when 4th of July rolls around, one of the floods will be on a third H801 so I can have three discreet colors against the front of the house. Red/White/Blue…
In the video there are only three floods lighting the front of the house. The fourth is dedicated to the sign out by the curb.
I’ll be painting these an oil-rubbed bronze color to help mask them in the landscape.
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I like your idea! Really came out nice! I tried to accomplish this with super bright LED spot lights but they can’t be spliced, so now I just have 2 boring lights that have to be controlled with a remote.
Definitely going to purchase these and try and run them to one h801, unless it’s too much power. I like your idea of coming on when it senses I am coming home. Thanks so much, I’ll be keeping an eye out for updates!
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There’s about 8 inches or so of cable… Four inches between the back of the light and a 4 pin round keyed connector. The other end of the connector is a waterproof screw on fitting. This is the end you have to splice in to whatever 4 conductor landscape wiring you are using. I used 4 conductor direct burial rated 16 gauge speaker wire. The color pinout on the light is: Red is a brown wire. Blue is blue, green is green, and black is VCC. The speaker wire is red, white, green, black. So I used the white wire as the surrogate for blue.
Just some tips to help you out.
According to information I have found online, each output on the H801 is supposed to be able to handle 4 amps of load… Again, that’s EACH channel. These are rated at 10 watts, I assume for the entire 3 color array at full brightness… That’s roughly .8 amps per light… I think I have plenty of room to spare with regards to load.
This is my outdoor enclosure, buried in the mulch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HHMBW2/
This is the power supply I’m running all four lights with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WOIVRU
And this is the cable I’m using. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Q1998M
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Hey guys, I made a tutorial for the Arilux controllers. They are set up a little differently than the H801, so I thought i’d go ahead and make a video for it. Enjoy!
Oh, and make sure you’re subscribed 
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I love it! When you get it the way you like it, it would be awesome to have you post on the complete project here in the forums Projects and Stories category detailing out all what you did and what products you used because it is going to get buried in here. Even updating the SmartLife H801 Import Profiles with your code for example would be great that @cjcharles mentions.
On my last order they started providing documentation inside the boxes now of the H801; It is like you stated the specifications show 4amps for each of the 5 channels.
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Is there somewhere that I can purchase the h801 already flashed?
I have the same device as yours (ESP-IR-A V1.4) and I’ve faced to the same issue. The upload procedure resulted ‘success’ but I’ve got no signal from the device after a reboot. I was able to repeat the upload with success but nothing has changed.
Did you find a solution to make the controller work?
Here is a pic of my device.
Sure. Cost plus shipping and a couple bucks for the flash?
Give me a few days to order. I’ve been sitting on these lights and parts for a while, and we’ve recently reentered the custody battle part of life. Gotta wait for funds.
yep, looks just like my controllers that I wasn’t able to program. Does the other side have a metal case covering the wifi module? Mine did not. I’ve been meaning to see if they will take other code loaded from Arduino but I haven’t had a chance to try. I ended up purchasing 4 more from Banggood and they do program fine so it not my programmer and has something to do with the module.
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, I have the same uncovered module in the back of the board.
I’ll have to order another set from Banggood if that’s working. I’ll keep these if support will be extended in the future.
This is a great app it does exactly what I am looking to do only I am using the Philips LED strip lights. Is there any way that I can have this app control my Philips LED strip lights? (Without the HueHub)
Not really, the programs are compiled by the smartapp and sent to the controller in a string format that I have created. If someone is familiar with the Hue API perhaps they could adapt the string that is created and somehow send it to the Hue lightstrip, but I doubt that is possible without the HueHub.
Hey Guys,
first big thanks to Eric for this work. I’ve had a couple of H801 running for the past few months and they are great. Your handler and Smartapp makes this really top notch.
Now I’m having a bit of a problem. I flashed 5 different H801 tonight. All flashed easily. One is performing exactly as my previous 2. All colors are spot on, including those from the color wheel.
One, although it connected easily, was found by the app right away and appeared perfect. It started flashing the LEDs as soon as it was turned on. I assume that is simply a defective unit.
The main problem is with the other 3. They function perfect with all channels. Blue, red , green are correct when used from the main page of the app. But when using the color wheel, colors are all over the place. Green is bluish, red is greenish etc. But again, if you choose blue on the main page, you get blue, same with the other colors.
All have been flashed with the exact same file. The latest one.
Anyone else as experienced this?