Yeah no. WiFi is 2.4&5.6ghz z-wave is 900mhz. They won’t interfere unless something is REALLY wrong in one of the radios. The antenna aren’t even the right length I’d imagine.
Uninstall the app, remove any chatter, that’s the only thing that could interfere but that would affect everything talking to the hub, not just the GE devices.
Curious question about RGBW strips in general: is it possible to alternate the colors displayed on the strip at the same time? So for instance - is it possible to have it so that - let’s say you look at 4 LEDs on a strip:
L1 is displaying W
L2 is displaying R
L3 is displaying G
L4 is displaying B
Is this possible, or are they only wired in such a way so that all lights must be the same color at the same time?
The kind we are talking about in this thread for the H801 are wired like this. All are displaying the same color at the same time using an analog control signal from the controller which in this case is the 0-12vdc going to five channels RGBWW
But you can get different LED strips that are “smart” with individually addressable LED’s that use a digital data signal from a smart DMX type controller that is programmable. I believe this is what you were asking on having a different color on adjacent LED’s.
So I finally got around to doing my pantry.
Used WW/CW LED strips I bought on AliExpress. They are 5050 and are simply dual white on the same strip. In the closets and pantry I have no use for color strips, but do like the control for color temp.
A while back I was hoping to get Eric to may warm and cool to separate White Chanel’s which he did. Thank you Eric!!
Anyway, it all turned out very nicely. This H801 has been wifi stable, I’ve had it on for a month before installing it.
Thanks again @erocm1231!!
PS, if you ever decide to add a color temp picker similar to the RGB picker, I’ll be thrilled!
A couple final pics.
I am starting the process of building a new home and this looks like a great idea. Definitely need a contact sensor on the door to automatically turn the lights on / off when the door is opened or closed. 
Do you have the link for which seller you used on AliExpress?
Thanks. Are you finding you are using the warm white at all or mostly the cool white in the cabinet. It looks like you are using the cool white?
Thats like 3800-4000k. (Kind of like moonlight)
W1 is at 100% (warm)
W2 is at 50% (cool)
Mind you I have a warm white fixture on ceiling
This is full warm:
This is full cool:
I have got my al-lc02’s working but the red and the green are the wrong way round so unless i cut the wires and solder them the other way around they wont work in rgb properly, is there a code change i could do to remedy this ?
cheers
Hey, guys. Trying this out and flashed the H801 (successfully…at least ESPeasy said it was). The problem is I don’t believe it is advertising itself as a AP (no default wifi to connect to). Unless its called “NinjaAdidas” which I assume is the neightbors wifi (just kidding, I know it should be esp.mac).
I have connected it to a 24v power supply that I intend to use for the strip and the signal light blinks green every seven seconds. Any clues?
Try the reset procedure and watch to see if it LED’s give back the correct status (that will help confirm the flash is good) and then see if it sends out the AP
No red LEDs at all with either the 20 second jump or the 60 second jump. I reflashed in the event something failed with he write, and again it showed successful, but not AP broadcast and no red LEDs during the jumping process. H801 was purchased from Amazon. Thanks for your help…feeling like an idiot even though I do projects like this with an RPI and ARduino all the time. Do I have a bad board or is that just me jumping off the deep end too early.
P.S. - If it matters…I only have power plugged in at the time. Have connected an LED strip yet since I want to get it on wifi before I break out the soldering iron.
I just posted a video showing the reset in action back on the Reset Procedure in post #771 to help demonstrate what to expect.
Quick question, I wonder if you have the J3 jumper still installed AFTER you flashed successfully? Use the J3 to initiate flash mode then remove it afterwards.
Only have the jumpers connected during the pre-flash boot and the flash process. Once it says its successful, I removed power from the device (unplug the USB cable from the FTDI) and then remove the J3 jumper and the FTDI connecting wires. Take it back to the 24v power supply and plug it in. My understanding is that J3 is only used for write capabilities.
The video was very useful…and definitely not what I am experiencing. Not getting the red LED inside the box (on the controller) at all when it’s plugged in. The only thing I get is the green “signal” LED blinking at a rate of once per seven seconds. Not even coming on when I plug in the controller (again, still have no LED strip connected).
7th time is a charm. Kept flashing per another post until I got a solid red at the end of the write process. Connected to it and configed my wifi. Thanks, @dalec…appreciate the helpful videos!
AWESOME! so tell me which FTDI product you are using and what is printed on the backside?
My colors are all mixed up again when I use the color picker. Has anything changed with the device handler?
I just tried to delete everything and reinstall. Now I’m getting:
No signature of method: script14934966849301408981727.metadata() is applicable for argument types: (script14934966849301408981727$_run_closure1) values: [script14934966849301408981727$_run_closure1@69cc3759] Possible solutions: getMetadata(), getState(), setState(java.lang.Object), metaClass(groovy.lang.Closure)
when trying to install the smart app in the IDE
Almost too embarrassed to. It’s the one mentioned previously. I thought when people were saying it was having problems writing, they would saying that it was throwing error messages in the esptool. Never got one of those, just didn’t get the final red LED. I have ordered the ADAfruit one for the rest of the H801s (two more).
