[OBSOLETE] SmartLife (H801) RGBW LED Strip Wifi Controller & Bulb

Does anyone know which pins the H801 uses for which light channel on the ESP unit inside?
I have an RGBW amplifier, and just flashed the firmware to an Adafruit Huzzah Breakout board (It WORKS!).

Since I have hardware on hand already, I’m planning to put it to use to run a couple strings of LEDs for the theater. The amplifier is able to run a large number of LEDs, so I’ll likely just run a bunch of strings in parallel off of it and power the Huzzah with a cell phone adapter.

Edit: I see @C_Hobbs’ post above about performing a manual build on one of these. Pins 6, 7 and 8 for RGB.
Any word on which one is white?

So the conversion is actually simpler than that. Well, I started out with a mathematical conversion, but made an adjustment when I noticed “flickering” when adjusting multiple channels at the same time. Thinking that perhaps the process was too taxing on the esp8266 (a total guess), I changed a method that simply remaps the input from one range to another. There is an array that holds the PWM values (64 of them incrementing by 16). It takes the hex input, converts it to an integer and maps it to one of the values in the array. The problem you are seeing is actually converting the PWM value back to what is reported to the user. Since the original hex value that got mapped to one of the 64 PWM values could actually be 4 possibilities, I did do a math conversion there. Again, this is the value that is reported back to the user and not the value of the PWM. They are generally close enough that nobody cares (I guess except for you :p).

Since it seems the current method doesn’t correct the flickering, I’ll probably change it back to my original method which will report to the user the exact value that was input.

@Synthesis, the GPIOs are
R 15
G 13
B 12
W1 14
W2 4

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Thanks for the explination! It makes total sense. As far as the colors are concerned, I can’t really tell the difference visually but the bash script I have sampling data from the device can :slight_smile: I’m using the values of the RGB as a sort of switch for an external program I’m running. It tracks the sun and tells the RGB to mimic sunrise/sunset colors. I check the on/off switch of the H801 and if the switch is on and the color it last thought it sent. Basically it checks if smartthings turned the light off and if it is allowed to turn it back on and change the color.

This may have been already answered, and if so, my apologies.

I want to turn on both W1 and W2 using CoRE and a contact switch. I can get the controller to turn on, which is W1 but can’t seem to get W2 to turn on as well. I Looked into creating a program under the particular controller I’m using but didn’t see where I could choose W2.

This may need to go to the CoRE forum, if so, I will remove and ask there.

Thanks for any info.

I’ll have to look into why W1 & W2 wouldn’t work using CoRE. Seems like it should.

As for the programs, if you have the latest version of the SmartApp, Device Handler, and Firmware you should see a W1 & W2 option.

The options are indeed there with the latest updates but I think @suprdave04 is looking to control simultaneously the W1 and W2 together. The current version only allows you to select one OR the other and not BOTH when choosing the “Light Strip Color”. Is it a problem to have multiple choices enabled in the “Light Strip Color?”

@suprdave04 I am posting a screen shot of where the W1 and W2 selections is on the bottom of the Light Strip Color option when configuring Programs actions in one of the six programs the SmartLife RGBW LIght (Connect) app. It sounds like you either have the older version or you are looking in the wrong area?

thanks @erocm1231 and @dalec … Looks like I was sporting an older version of the device handler and the smart app… Got them both updated and I see what @dalec sees now.

I’ll wait for some more info from @erocm1231 to see if It’s even possible to have both the W1 and W2 turn on simultaneously using CoRE.

For now, I just have both of my White led strips connected to W1. So it’s an easy workaround…

Thanks again for all the help @erocm1231 and @dalec

I do this, the delta (triangle) w1 and delta w2 on and off are what I use to specifically turn individual channels on/off/dim as needed. I have three strips that turn w1 on at once, and one device uses w2 with another sensor, then I have a “master” on switch that turns all the w1’s and the w2 on at the same time. There may be a few hundred milliseconds between them, but it’s nearly instant.

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Alright, so I just pushed an update (to the H801 - “SmartLifeRGBWController”) that addresses the issue you saw. I’ll push it out to the other device firmwares when I get a chance. I’ve also added the “Auto Off” feature from the Sonoff. Maybe not as useful on the H801, but it was simple to add.

Auto Off? I didn’t know there was an Auto-Off… :flushed: I have been using SmartLighting to do that.

This is great! I am setting it up now on both the SonOff and one of my H801 is in the garage to give me color indication of events plus control the garage lighting. So having the AutoOff was great. For whatever reason I have intermittent issues with my momentary switch input to J3 on that H801 so AutoOff will help .

UPDATE: Ok I’m not showing any change in my GitHub yet. . . . patience Dale. LOL

I don’t think I’ve added it to the device handler yet, but you can set it up in the web interface for the controller if you update the firmware.

Thanks!

One question though, is there a trick to doing the upload from the web interface? I keep getting “Upload failed” and then the thing reboots.

Are you asking how to do a firmware update from the web interface?

I guess I am?

Download the latest SmartLifeRGBWController.ino.generic.bin file for the H801 to your computer. Then go to the web browser and access your H801 directly using its’ IP address. Select Firmware in the upper menu, then use Browse button to locate the .bin file you just downloaded and select it. Then click Update button.

Let me know if that helps or if you need more clarification.

That’s what I did and it gives an error saying the upload failed. I even tried using curl to do it on the command line. I tried it on two different H801 boxes I have up and running and both produce the same result.

The specific error is: “Update failed”

It also breaks the HTML of the page.

I am at a loss. I just did it again and mine are updating to the latest firmware dated Apr 10, 2017 14:28:52

Maybe you have a bad downloaded bin file. Try redownloading it again and delete the old one. Or trying another browser, Or even rebooting your computer and trying again.

update: I am using Windows 10, using IE 11. Chrome failed when I tried it but my Chrome is messed up on this computer

what browser and OS are you using… I’m on linux using firefox

I just tried my chrome as well… I’ll check my mac next… if all else fails I can boot my windows machine :wink:

… mac: safari, chrome, firefox all fail with “Update Failed”

… windows 10: IE, firefox both fail with “Update Failed!”

do I need to jump J3 while it updates?

I had never updated this way before, so I give it a shot and following Dale’s short description, the update was successful on the first try.
I have a “AriLux AL-LC02” title on the web interface even though I’m doing the H801. Not sure why.
But it does work.
I’m using Windows 10 and Chrome. Just plugged in the H801. No jumping.