[RELEASE] SmartLife (H801) RGBW LED Strip Wifi Controller & Bulb

Just an update to the device handler.

Edit: I can’t test it right now so let me know if you have any problems!

Believe me, I’m trying! Unfortunately I’m not a programmer by trade… just picking around at what I can find and figure out.

I’ve used the Fibaro RGBW Controller SmartApp By Todd Wackford, which I believe calls the built-in programs for the Fibaro device. It doesn’t appear that their API / code is available to find the sequences / timings, though, from what I’ve experienced.

The 100ms minimum duration limitation in the SmartLife SmartApp is my source of frustration for programs that flicker or flash quickly, as in the fireplace, lightning and police lights. Those are what seem to be better looking with the Fibaro Controller / SmartApp.

I’d be interested to know what people have based their programs off of - Fibaro’s or other units, videos they’ve seen posted in here or on YouTube, etc. It just seemed to me that they were all replicating the Fibaro.

In the end, I would MUCH rather be utilizing H801s than the Fibaro controller!

I’m eager to try those suggestions. I haven’t jumped into Core yet, so I just loaded it into ST and am now starting to explore. Looks like a lot of fun!

I’ve considered that very thing! That might just be the push I need to move forward with it. I’ve used the Aeon Labs switches, dimmers and controllers for a few external lights around the house. Is that what you used / would recommend or another product?

Get out! Well, now I know what I’m working on sorting out the rest of this weekend![quote=“dalec, post:539, topic:51182”]
About the Fibaro which preset action are you liking in the Fibaro? I have a Fibaro as well sitting on my testbench that I want to test.

I mentioned in a recent reply to @erocm1231, but it’s mainly the actions that appear to utilize much quicker minimum durations in their sequences - fireplace, storm and police lights. Here’s a video that demonstrates how rapid some of those timings are, in case you guys haven’t seen them: https://youtu.be/Wyz3alzhMgY

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I think I would hold out for the new GE switches that are z-wave plus. They are on Amazon listed for presale. Or get the Homeseer HS-WD100+ which are out now if you can’t wait PLUS you would gain the additional button features for scene type control. So personally I would jump on the Homeseer. :slight_smile:

I looked at the video and see what you mean about the faster response for fibaro action sequences. I wouldn’t mind having that however I don’t have a need for that type of activity except for just playing around. The response of the H801 actions have been suitable for me and especially when you consider the cost and what I am using them for as kitchen cabinet lighting. :slight_smile:

OK so the jewel is using that Virtual Device Sync so let me know how it works for you.

I have 3 H801 currently running, any reason why the green would stop working on one?

Use a multimeter and see if you have power out of the H801 at the negative and green terminals when it’s on at 100%. If nothing, then the mosfet probably died. If you get a voltage, then probably a bad strip or connection.

I have one that “froze up” this week and wouldn’t respond. I ended up doing a reset tonight and reconfigured the WiFi to bring it back to life. It is working but really laggy for some reason… its like 5 seconds slower reacting than normal. I see it the reaction time improves tomorrow.

Question, I’m totally new to the H801.
I have 2 on order.

Running the W1 and W2 channels, can I connect a warm/cool white led strip and easily control color temperature?

I am putting these in a closet and my wife wants to be able to switch from warm to pure to cool white when she wants to. The strip is a WW/CW combo strip, but how would I make the H801 show up and look like a dimmable tunable white “bulb”?
I don’t have any interest in controlling channels individually or running multiple strips separately controlled.
Also, if I wore up a momentary switch to J3, am I correct in understanding that you can set up the H801 to turn on to a user selected default profile ( in my case, color temp 4200k, 70% brightness)

Which strips are you using for the warm/cool LED?

I assume the color temp is controller by varying one warm strip and/or the other cool strip. I don’t see any reason why you can’t control the hybrid strips of warm white and cool white to achieve the color temp variations range produced by the warm and cool colors. The “easily” is the harder one to answer. That is a relative question based on what you consider easy.

I think in your case yes, because you could use 3 of the 5 available program settings to get the “action” to the be the correct LED channel strip to turn on.

The ability to manually control the level of the two channels that you wire the hybrid to is certainly there so that you could adjust to whatever pleases your eye in the temp color range you want them be able to dim that color temp down or brighten it up using the main slider should work. But if easily to you means you want to enter in a value of 5000K and the two channels adjust to that desired setting then “no” it can’t unless @erocm1231 is working on some new software to effectively control color temp to do it that way.

Does the momentary on J3 require communication with the SmartThings hub to work? I was considering putting a small momentary in the cover of the H801 boxes themselves as a manual override in case there was a comm error or the SmartThings was wigging out. I got a Aeon Minimote but the one I got won’t hold a charge so I’m getting it replaced. The idea is to use the Minimote as the “easy button”, the SmartThings app for more advanced control, but then still have the momentary available to on/off easily if needed.

nope? I just tried it with the hub off and it didn’t work? I think it is standalone to the firmware that you flash in to the H801. If you are looking for easy use Amazon Echo Dot and voice control this baby :open_mouth:

update: I am rechecking that J3 switch of mine for being faulty. It didn’t work with the hub coming back up either.

Your answer is a bit confusing. :slight_smile: If it’s standalone in the firmware, it shouldn’t require the hub, right? But if you tried it with the hub off and it didn’t work, then it seems like it does require communication to the hub?

Yeah I confused myself.:scream: It just tried it again and it works with the hub offline. The J3 response on this H801 seems a little sluggish to me tonight for some reason.

Ok, thanks. I’ll only be using it as a “if all else fails” option. I thought about locating the button in a clever place like under a corner of the counter, but since it will only be used as a last option, I don’t think it’s worth the effort to be too clever. I’m just going to mount it in the H801 plastic box like I mentioned so that we have a Plan B.

I’m just getting my feet wet with the SmartThings… right now I only have a couple light bulbs and a motion sensor. The H801’s controlling kitchen cabinet LED’s will be my first experiment with anything customized. Once I get a comfort level with it all, I’ll probably look at getting an Amazon Echo Dot, I’ve been wanting one anyway. For now, the Minimote is like $18 and it’s a good in-between option – assuming the new one will hold a charge. :slight_smile:

Has anyone gotten the h801 to work with the smartapp dim with me. I’m install the virtual DH so i can dim the individual channels specifically w1 and it will not follow my kitchen light bulb.

Not sure what you did here? So did you generate virtual dimmers for each of the H801 channels using the Virtual Device Sync smartapp?

This is found in the original posting above:

2016-08-25 - Update: Released a new additional SmartApp (Virtual Device Sync) to create 5 virtual dimmers and keep them in sync with the SmartLife Controller (R, G, B, W1, W2). Now you can easily control up to 5 separate LED strips off of a single controller. See post 88.

When the hub is off and you use J3, the controller tries to send an update to the hub but eventually times out. This would be the sluggishness. I think I coded a “Give up after 3 attempts” or something like that (this includes the 5 minute updates that get sent to the hub). So, if the controller times out 3 times in a row it will give up for a few hours. I wanted to have the unit work when the hub goes offline, but wanted to resume as normal if there were small “blips” in the network.


I’ve added support for some similar controllers sold under the Arilux brand. They are smaller, but do not have support for an external button. They are also a little harder to flash. Details are in the first post. Let me know if there are any questions.

Will the IR remote on the versions with that still work? That would be a good way to get input back to the smart things as well as control the LEDs