This is such a cool project, but sadly I can’t use it.
Flashing was a breeze. App is awesome. Interface cool as beans. Supports 2 White channels!! EVERYTHING I dreamed of. It worked first time. I was in LOVE.
But my LEDs in the ceiling tray are on an AC power switch (4way actually).
Powering the device off and back on from the wall switch leaves it OFF.
So just set a default color you say. I could do that. Not as good as powering to the last setting, but I could do that.
But it takes 11 seconds to boot to light!
This is the primary lighting in the room. I can’t wait 11 seconds for light.
So it’s back to my 2 RF controllers (RGB and White) and 2 remotes and no automation.
I was so hoping to automate colors and dimming as the night progressed. Awesome project. Maybe future hardware will work.
Maybe I can find another place to use it with constant power.
Why not just provide it permanent power instead of physically-switched power? You could replace the three light switches in your 4-way with WiFi or z-wave dummy switches that instead of physically switching the power, they send an automation command to the H801.
I already have money tied up in 4 z-wave switches. They send power up to the tray. I could hardwire the tray with power. Then what would I do with the existing z-wave switches. Have them switch nothing and let the hub see that power state changed?
That might be an idea. But it puts a lot of dependency on the hub.
Hey I was hoping someone could give me a sanity check on my setup. I am running 15m of LED strips, maybe more and want to make sure I am making good choices. I did a proof of concept and my setup does work but I minimally understand LEDs and electronics.
I’m considering this idea. I’ll have to open up the gang box and do some clever wiring in there. ALL those z-wave 4-ways will be underused and simply a sentinel to the hub. I’ll have to write a piston in webcore to do the lifting. But it could work. I really like this app and connectivity to ST.
It would be a challenge, but that’s the fun of this hobby. I’m going to test it on the bench to see if it’s doable.
Downside: Constant AC power and DC transformer power in my tray where the LEDs are.
Resale: If I sell the house, I MUST make sure the hub transferable or I have to unwire the whole thing.
However, my house has so many devices and systems, I had to write a manual for it in case I dropped dead.
If you want to recompile there is a 5 second delay that is used in the factory reset process that you can remove. There won’t be an easy way to factory reset if you do (unless you have the H801 and then you can use J3).
I’m surprised that it takes 11 seconds though. Unless it is having a tough time connecting to your wifi or the SmartThings ip address and port aren’t in the advanced settings correctly and it is waiting on a timeout to communicate to SmartThings. The delay that can be removed is in “setup()”. Delete the “delay(5000)” line
Re constant DC transformer power: Yes, but think of all the other little power supplies we have constantly powered up in our homes. Most of them have minuscule current draw while not in use.
Re selling house: I recently changed the accounts on all my devices to an e-mail address belonging to my home, rather than my personal e-mail address. A friend of my says that when he sold his smart home, many prospective buyers shied away thinking it would be too difficult to operate and maintain. He put little placards near every switch and room explaining what you could do and then buyers perked up.
I’ll try a static IP and checking the IP for ST to speed up boot time.
To confirm, the HA Controller IP and Port are for the ST Hub correct?
Keeping it powered all the time does offer more capabilities, it just makes more wiring work.
Maybe I shouldn’t worry about the DC transformer having power. I have SOOOO many things powered 24/7
Bartsch, it’s funny, just yesterday I told my wife, “I need to create an email addy for the house”. I don’t like having my personal email attached to the house.
SmartThings
Alarm system
Sound system
NVR Cameras
Irrigation
Access Points and Network stuffs
I suspect buyers fall into 2 categories.
“Ooo, this is so cool. It’s wired to the hilt”
Luddites, “This house is spying on me”
We expect to sell this house someday and the placard is a great idea. Say “Alexa, wake me up”.
I’m using the H801 LED controller as a PWM signal generator for the dimming input of a MeanWell HLG series LED power supply. I found that if I use a 10v power supply for the H801 and then connect a 1.8k ohm resistor across the VCC & W1 terminals along with the MeanWell dimming inputs I can accurately control the dimming function of the MeanWell driver. I used a potentiometer to find the right level of resistance (1.8k ohm) to create the optimal dimming output for the HLG power supply. At values of 5 or higher the driver supplies enough power to light the LED’s; below that the LED’s are off. Maximum power supply output is achieved in the 95 plus range on the slider control.
Hi all, I purchased the Arilux SL-LC 02 controller and need a bit of help with the flashing because some of the original links in a youtube video are dead and I couldn’t locate the flash tool or the AriLux_AL-LC02.ino.generic.bin file.
Please help, I can’t get the child devices to build and the orange indicator never leaves the config tile. Everything seems to be up to date. What am I Missing?
Eric, thanks for pointing me to the firmware. Got the H801 flashed correctly as far as I can tell and it’s discovered in SmartApps, but that’s as far as I get. The latest Handlers were installed, but the controller is unresponsive to changes within the app. Also, the controller reliably connects to WiFi when it’s on 3.3v through the FTDI adapter, but not always when it’s on 12v DC. I’m not sure what’s up. Help
I’ve tried several 12v power supplies (and tested their output) with no success. Should the H801 board have lights on when it’s powered up? I notice the plastic cover has a ‘power’ and ‘signal’ label, but I never see any lights on except for a dimly lit green one when I’m flashing. Perhaps I have a bad unit?
@remys I think you might have your wires backwards. Usually red = VCC and black = GND. I’m actually impressed that the LED strip is on with it all wired backwards. There’s also a chance that that could have damaged the board, depends on how it was designed.
