[RELEASE] SmartLife (H801) RGBW LED Strip Wifi Controller & Bulb

i use the led strips with google home and it works perfectly except for one thing…
I cannot make the ledstrip white leds (white is in Port W1) be turned on by commmand (White level slider in the app), and that’s the one the wife likes… Anyone found a solution for that or should i be making virtual switches which makes the white level be turned on?

Not sure if this would work, but you if you only like white, maybe you could just run that as one of the other colors and just have to remember to trigger that color for white?

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I merged your changes to the master branch. The only bug that I have found is when the “mutually exclusive” option is selected in the device preferences. This is because the device gets sent the level changes for w1/2 and also gets sent rgb of 000000. It sees the second request as an attempt to change rgb and by default sets w1 to 00 and turns it off. Probably fixable in the device handler, but possibly in the firmware as well. I will have to think about it.

Thanks for doing that by the way. :slight_smile:

@crasy88 I don’t think that Google Home will play nice with W1 & W2. I think it just sends rgb values when you request a color change. You could use Virtual Device Sync and create switches for the channels. Name one switch “Cabinets White” and say “Set Cabinets White to 50%” or “Turn Cabinets White on.”

@karl62684 Currently the only option for J3 is to fade. It wouldn’t be too tough to add though so I will try to get it in there.


Thanks. I guess I’ll share a video of me using a momentary switch I installed under the cabinets so the wife has manual control of the lights. Alexa will be the main source of control though.

And yes I used cat5 it’s great because it’s white and i can hide it in the corner of the cabinets. And has 4 pairs so 5 wires for rgbw + power and 2 more wires for the j3 jumpered switch.


I’m having the same issue as you @grego892 . Did you ever figure this out?
EDIT: Just updated to the most recent device handler from Git and seems to have fixed the issue.

Thanks so much for everyones updates on this. I’ve read through the majority of this thread and going to buy stuff this week to do it all. Going to start with just the kitchen cabinets. Hopefully I don’t run into any problems.

I’m curious about what you ended up doing. I’m trying to do something similar, but not using an existing physical switch. Instead of having a physical switch in the wall, I’m hoping to include a small momentary dimmer switch (http://a.co/2awSyFA, http://a.co/dS6N6H8 or http://a.co/a50jWXb) to go through J3 but have it only control my under cabinet lights. I’m not sure if it can really work how I hope it would and so I would appreciate your feedback. Currently, the H801 is controlling an RGBW strip for my upper cabinets and a soft white strip (W2 on the H801) under the cabinets.

My questions to @dalec, @michaelahess or anyone else who knows:

  1. I’m seeing now that these switches are a bit different than most of the other ones I’ve seen posted here that just have two connections total. For the ones I’m hoping to choose from to purchase and test out, the momentary switch has a pair of wires (+/-) going in to the switch and then the same out. What is the wiring that I should be connecting to J3? Do I use the “in” wires to the switch and just ignore the set of wires that go out or am I needing to create a loop using one of the in and one of the out wires? Any direction on this step would be greatly appreciated.

  2. Can this be used to control just the under cabinet lights (W2)? Or am I going to have to use a second H801 controller if I want to control just the under cabinet strip of lights? I guess what I’m asking is what the J3 controls? Is there any customizable (I haven’t searched through the code yet) to just control one color (W2)?

I’m including a few photos of this section of our kitchen. My hope is to duplicate this on the other side of our kitchen as well as creating groups and joining them together in ST. I’ve started playing with Color Coordinator and Trend Setter. I’m looking at CoRE but have no experience with it yet.

This thread has been extremely informative and helpful, allowing our family to have some amazing lights at an unbelievably affordable price, so thank you to everyone who has contributed!

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The way the H801 J3 input works is with dry momentary contacts that means unpowered. It looks like those switches are for dimming and they are powered? The H801 will do your dimming so you just need a plain jane N.O. (normally open) momentary switch to operate the H801. Something like these would work but you have lots of choices. For surface mounting under the cabinet use a simple door bell button like this

Or if you want to mount a pretty button in an enclosure or gang box.

I like the way @erocm1231 did his using the standard wall switch

Yes you can customize what “Default Color” will come on with the J3 switch input. I did mine using W1 because with the older firmware I couldn’t get it to control W2, only W1 and the other RGB colors. I think the latest update that might have been fixed @erocm1231 ?

Your kitchen pictures look great! So how many H801 do you have controlling all that lighting right now? It looks like you need two right? Just making sure you don’t overload those controller’s like I did and caused a minor melt down.

Very helpful. Thanks for the feedback and quick responses @dalec!

Yes, the switches I was looking at (one delivered so far) are for on/off as well as dimming. They would normally go in line with the LED strip when there’s not any type of controller involved. My hope was to provide my wife with a physical switch/dimmer that I could just mount under the cabinet in a corner for each controller in order to do the same function as my phone for the under cabinet lights without having to drill a hole / make a cut for a standard wall switch in my walls. Thus, the inquiry into the capabilities of the J3 jumper.

These switches you linked to might help simplify the idea, so I look forward to trying them out. Thanks!

Strongly suggest you use more than one cable for the power as it will not carry that much power without a high risk of overheating. Even if you only have one for each of rgbw, make sure you use at least two if not three for the 12v line.

I agree with @cjcharles about being cautious on using Cat5 cabling. The Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge would give us a conservative estimate for 24AWG power transmission is only 0.577 amps. And I am assuming your Cat5 is 24AWG when cheaper versions actually have even smaller 26AWG. Depending on length of LED strips you are running you are most likely over capacity on your wire. (0.5amps is about 18 inches of typical RGB strip) Are your channel wires warm/hot to the touch after having your lights on for a few minutes?

No but I’ll check. The runs of cat5 I’m doing is less than 24"

further thinking about it, I think doing it with correct wiring would be the better choice in the long run.

Interesting. Unless your RGB strips are pulling less amps? I wonder also the rating is based not only on AWG but also the insulation of the wire. Cat5 is designed for data transmission primarily so the insulation doesn’t worry about heat buildup? What is the link to where you purchased the strips?

That being said let me think this through more because I tend to always error on the much safer side.
UPDATE: OK I got a great resource specifically for RGB LED lighting configuration design Flexfire LEDs Resource Center - How to install LED strip lighting, IES files, spec sheets It has lots of helpful engineering installation and design guidelines. This video is a lot more basic for the more common cases but it doesn’t cover wiring capacity sizing
How to cut, connect & power LED Strip Lighting - YouTube

I think your point on the insulation is actually a good one and didn’t think that through. I ended up buying wire specifically for LED lights from amazon along with the connectors. That being said I’ve seen while searching that Irrigation wire isn’t a bad option as it can be 7 conductor 18awg UL rated and waterproof.

The LED strips I have are the popular SuperBright LEDS you can buy from amazon or ebay.

Typically the current readings of cats are cautious and if you have a good cable you can go higher, but normally steady state 100% on a few channels would cause problems. Short distance of a few feet will not cause a problem, but the challenge is due to the fact that cat 5 is single core and that is what limits its current carrying capacity.

This…is not an incorrect statement!

Ok, so I went a different route altogether on the J3 / Momentary switch idea. Instead of drilling/mounting them in various places in the kitchen, I decided to simplify and centralize the plan. I picked up an Aeon Labs Z-Wave Minimote and mounted it with velcro tabs under the edge of the countertop in the middle of the kitchen. Much easier! So now I’m programming the buttons to run the various sections of lighting under / over the cabinets based on which H801 they are connected to as well as joining sections together by using virtual devices/switches.

My next challenge is how to fire up W2 from within a virtual switch / program. So far I haven’t been able to find a way to trigger it like you can in the My Home/Things device screen. My best guess is to use the custom color / Hex option if I can determine what W2 is registered as since it’s not in the list of Light Strip Colors when configuring an action.

When Live Logging all I see when running the W2 button is:
{“rgb”:“000000”, “r”:“00”, “g”:“00”, “b”:“00”, “w1”:“00”, “w2”:“ff”, “power”:“on”, “running”:“false”, “program”:“5”, “uptime”:“1 days and 23:28:30”}
uri /w2?value=ff&channels=false&transition=true

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for the encouragement. I currently have two controllers in place in the kitchen. I have a third one on reserve just in case I start getting close on how much I’m pushing through them. Hopefully no meltdowns!

I also have a Fibaro RGBW controller that I purchased originally to do all of this until I found out about these amazingly affordable components. The preset programs with the Fibaro are much better in my opinion. I’m hoping to replicate them in SmartLife more accurately at some point. However, I believe they are taking advantage of lower minimum durations than the SmartLife requirement of at least 100 milliseconds. I’ve noticed it in the lightning sequence most noticeably.


Create virtual switches in the SA, one for each channel that you can use in anything. Also Core sees each channel individually for on/off/level so a piston assigning a button to toggle a channel works very well.

Using the minimote was a great idea. :slight_smile: Another thing to consider might be this. In my kitchen I have a smart in-wall switch dimmer for my kitchen recessed ceiling lights. I used SmartLighting app to monitor the recessed lights so anytime time we turn on/off the recessed lights it automatically brings on/off all the cabinet lighting. I still have independent cabinet lights switch as well, I just find we use the “master” light switch in the wall as the primary control, and of course Alexa , Google Home.

OK, you haven’t found the jewel in this H801 system :slight_smile: It is kind of hidden but it does EVERYTHING you are asking. This is what @michaelahess is pointing out. In the SmartLIfe H801 smartapps you can automatically have it build virtual switches that assign themselves to six available programs of the h801 for you AND you build virtual switches to each of the RGBWW channels directly as well using Virtual Device Sync. It is a little confusing the first time but you have TWO completely different sets of virtual switches that can be built for you.

Using Virtual Device Sync, you can build a set of virtual switches for each of the five channels RGBWW. That allows you to control each channel separately as its own device thing which is the technique you are looking for. This is found in the original posting 2016-08-25 - Update: Released a new additional SmartApp to create 5 virtual dimmers and keep them in sync with the SmartLife Controller (R, G, B, W1, W2). Now you can easily control up to 5 separate LED strips off of a single controller. See post 88.

Using the H801 smartapp, the other set of virtual switches this H801 can build for you automatically is for each of the six custom program switches so that you can access the program from outside the devices/thing and directly as its own thing.

About the Fibaro which preset action are you liking in the Fibaro? I have a Fibaro as well sitting on my testbench that I want to test.