Can you elaborate on how you got the chimes to work? I was having great results with the keypad until recently. My biggest issue now is that I get no sound from the keypad. What functions did you enable through CORE that you weren’t able to with ULM and SA?
In core,
Piston mode,
Basic
If,
Add a condition,
Capability,
Contact sensor,
Contact sensor list, then choose what sensors you want to use to trigger the chime.
Comparison,
Changes to,
Open
Then,
Add action,
Control tone generators, this where you choose your keypad,
Add, task, choose top choice is (Beep)
Select done.
If you have any more questions just let me know.
Add action
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Thanks - Sorry for the late response but wanted to follow up. A few days after the alarm state button started continuously blinking the batteries died. Once the batteries were replaced everything was back to normal.
Thanks again -
Good to know. I’ll add that to the lead-in message, just in case anyone else gets the rapid blink like that.
To note, Lowes says that battery warning should give you 60 days to replace the batteries. I wonder if we’re doing anything weird to them to get them to die sooner.
I’ll also note that the batteries that came with my first unit were bad stock, they actually couldn’t support the appropriate loads in a battery tester, so it may just be that Lowes/Iris is sending out bad batteries.
–Zack
After having fought with this for 3 straight days here’s my overall feedback:
There is the original device handler, which is quite decent by itself however has some known limitations. So, as the 1st. post in this thread states - this is more like a super enhanced one. So, from the perspective of device handler : we’re good.
Now comes the lock app. I installed it and then configured it to have 4 users, with individual codes and 3 routines. Finally a delay of 30 seconds.
With this setup - everything worked perfectly. The app in my iOS dashboard correctly showed status, changes to status and when I went from OFF to PARTIAL or ON, there was this beep for 30 seconds. Everything’s EXCELLENT.
As is always the case, I decided to put Smart Alarm. Here’s where all Hell broke loose. As per recommendation, I had to remove send status updates in lock app and set delay to 0//none. I did all that and initially retained the routines. In Smart Alarm followed all directions to the last letter however the delays failed to work, the status changes weren’t reflected in smart phone app’s dashboard and all the beeping/chirping stopped. I thought I ought to remove the routines also from the lock app in conjunction with the other changes. Nope: same problem, in fact worst.
So, I ended up removing Smart Alarm and sticking with just the upgraded device handler and the lock application. With the delay working fine, should there be an issue when I am in away mode (for example) and I enter my home from outside? The keypad and the general status = AWAY/ARMED so will it immediately trigger a siren right after I open the door and thus break the door contact relay or will it give me those crucial 30 sec.for me to use the keypad and set the arming status = disarmed? Dunno!
That entry delay (30 seconds after opening the door) is what you can get with Smart Alarm, but not with SHM
To get the beeps working in SmartAlarm, go under SmartAlarm -> “Arming/Disarming Options”, and select the keypads for Exit / Entry delay. That should get them beeping. Note at the bottom of that same page has options for the entry/exit delay time (adjustable length, and mode in “Stay” mode.
Sadly, SHM and SmartAlarm arn’t tied together well, so the dashboard doesn’t automatically follow SmartAlarm like it does when you’re just using SHM.
–Zack
I still haven’t been able to get the delay beeps back or any sound from key presses since I had to re-install the keypad. But other than that it has been working great since my previous issues. It still delays, I just don’t have the audible warning which is fine…I don’t want to try to get it working for fear of making the keypad worse lol.
I might try it with core as one of the other posts says but im content right now
im not having any luck. still not beeping
At this point I think you have a bad keypad. I would stop pulling out your hair and return it to lowes.
I agree with @Richy on this one. I’d label that keypad as bad (no audio, possibly broken speaker), and try and get Lowes to exchange it for a new one.
–Zack
probably right, I guess the speaker just quit…it was never dropped or anything
I bought a new keypad last night and its working great. Idk what happened to the last one
Hi. I am having trouble pairing the keypad to the hub. I get the fast blinking network light, hit the tamper switch once, but it never goes solid or beeps. Also, the ST app says it only found a “thing” with a continuous “PLEASE WAIT” note. I’ve tried this multiple times with 2 different keypads (resetting each time) with the same result. The ST API shows the published device handler below another published handler I previously installed that worked for a different device, so it looks like it is installed correctly. Have reinstalled DTH probably 6 times with no luck. Any ideas?
take out the batteries, hold the tamper switch down, put 1 battery in, and release the tamper switch 1-2 seconds after putting the battery in
The network light on the keypad should begin a slow double blink cycle, indicating its in pairing mode
Smartthings should find the device, and list it as a CentraLite keypad, or an Iris Keypad (as appropriate
Once Smartthings finds the device, the network light on the keypad should blink rapidly.
Once the network light begins blinking rapidly, tap the tamper switch once (on the back of the keypad, under the mounting triangle on Iris keypads).
Within 2-3 minutes (Usually faster) of pressing the tamper switch, the keypad should beep three times (At least for the Iris variants), and the network light should go solid. (The keypad might go to sleep, in which case wave your hand in front of it to wake it up
Thanks Richy, but that is the process I have been following. ST never finds the device as a keypad and never finishes pairing.
An option (Not ideal, obviously), would be to manually change the device type of the keypad in the IDE after the initial pair (flashing network light) but before hitting the tamper switch to trigger the zone enrollment. That will cause the tamper press to work correctly, and finish the pairing.
If the device type is installed correctly, that should happen automatically, but there might be a new fingerprint out for the keypad that we don’t have in the device type yet.
Can you look under Devices in the ST API while the keypad is paired, and get me the “Data” (Should show manufacturer, model, etc), and “Raw Description” (Should be a long string of numbers and spaces) fields? I’ll compare that to the current device fingerprints, and see if there’s anything changed.
–Zack
Are you using the DH above in the first post?
Looks like Smartthings support posted (and resolved) an issue with devices pairing properly in the NA region, likely as a result of the 11/9 update (Which, otherwise, has seemed to speed things up significantly).
Might have better luck pairing today, since they fixed it.
–Zack
YEAH! Good call Zack. Both keypads paired today. Thank you.
You can watch the incident status (and subscribe to email alerts) here:
http://status.smartthings.com/
–Zack