[OBSOLETE] Lowes Iris and XFinity CentraLite keypad DTH + Apps

I’ll take a look at the uDTH stuff sometime this week when I get some time away from work I can test it. There’s probably something weird about their switch implementation that causes some issues with SA.

@RyanW, I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling several times. I’ve deleted the app in the IDE, Ive used github integration to get it, I’ve tried cutting and pasting the raw code, 'Ive never been able to get it to alarm. I am new to SmartThings, so maybe I am missing something about how to truly uninstall an app. I just used the red remove button from within the app itself. Then go to the IDE and delete the app from “My SmartApps”, correct? Is there something else I am missing to uninstall an app?

Thanks for your help

@bdimsdale I have never needed​ to delete the SA from the IDE, just deleting from the automations tab in the app. It still does seem possibly flakey but I need more time to really test thoroughly. Good to know about the uDTH workaround. Also, for anyone trying to integrate hue, while the SA doesn’t support it yet SHM does via the uDTH. I still can’t get chimes for contacts opening and I’m still seeing odd behavior when using two keypads where sometimes only one notifies.

I am using two of the iris keypads, an aeon siren, the multi sensors on 3 doors and a motion detector or two. The only thing I’m having flakiness with is the chime when opening the doors. Do you want me to send you what I have somehow?

I’m using the miriad device handler for the keypads, the Smart Alarm lgk Modified smartapp, CoRE smartapp for chimes, lgkapps : Smart Alarm Notification Device handler to go with his modified smart alarm version and the mitchpond : Centralite Keypad smartapp to program the keypads.

If your getting a delay on chime through CoRE its because of cloud to cloud lag. I used to have a chime for my front and back door and took it off because delay was annoying. Sometimes it was instant. Sometimes it would take 30 seconds or even minutes. A small work around was to have it chime only if the door is still open so you don’t get super delayed chime wondering what caused it. But then you won’t get the chime always. Another idea but not one I tested would be to wire the contact sensors to a chime system for instant response but that could get complicated.
If you find out a set up to get a more instant and reliable chime I would love to know.

The most reliable chime I have so far is BigTalker and LANnoucer. The tablet on the wall says “ding dong” when the front door opens and almost never fails.

Hi Zack.

Were you ever able to finish the integration that matches SA state with SHM state?

JP

I haven’t gotten that finished yet, still fighting with the same double-notification issues mentioned previously. Hopefully I’ll have that next week or so.

@dangitbobby - did you ever figure out a way to decrease temperature reporting? Mine is reporting every 0.1C and constantly polling the hub. I would imagine this will nuke the batteries very quickly.

Has anyone figured out how to update the firmware to get rid of the “lights stay on and drain the battery after arming” issue? Just got some brand new panels by ordering on Lowes.com since all the local in-store stock were used and returned, but one has the issue (even though the date on the batteries is the same in both).

I presume if one could get their hands on a Iris hub we could update the firmwares?

That’s my assumption too, but probably a PIA to unpair and repair. Especially if you have a lot of smart apps woven into the keypad. Nightmare.

You could create a virtual keypad and sub that device in the smartapps temporarily so you don’t have to uninstall then.

I found a hub for $30 on eBay. Does anyone that’s more familiar with Iris know if the item below will work? If so I’d be willing to test it out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262892400256

I really like the Lowes Iris keypad and this device handler!
Is it possible to stop the temperature report? I want the batteries to last as long as possible and i have no use for the temperature reports.

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I have two of the iris keypads and in the past 2 months they both had episodes where they went from 100% on the battery tile to battery dead.

Was at Lowes going to buy a smartplug and noticed they are giving a free iris Hub with any starter pack purchase, so I bought a starter pack with 2 smart plugs and got the Hum.

I setup the iris Hub and paired each keypad too it, it almost immediately updated their firmware. I added them back to smartthings and I hope this really is a fix for the battery drain issue.

Please report back on the battery drain issue. My keypads are now dead as well and would love to fix them permanently. Assuming you mean https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-Lighting-Pack/1000153311. Curious what the button that is included does.

Let us know if that’s a fix. I’ll likely be doing the same thing (Buy a
starter pack at Lowes to get the hub for FW updates) in the near future,
just to avoid this issue (And get a few extra things at the same time).
Those batteries are expensive, so the WAF to buy a hub is high.

–Zack

The lighting pack doesn’t include a button (It’s 2 smart plugs and a motion sensor), but the Home Automation Pack does, and it can be used in smartthings as a button device (Can trigger things in CoRE, or using a Button Controller, or be a panic button in SmartAlarm)

–Zack

ive had my iris keypads for about 3 weeks or so now and theyre at 80%. They were never 100% though so I’d say theyve lost about 10-15% in about a months time.

Some ship with slightly older batteries, so a quick initial hit (From 90% to 80%, etc) hopefully won’t continue falling like that.

My units (with fresh batteries from Amazon, because of the light firmware bug) will stay at 100% for 3-4 months before seeing any drop in percentage, normally. (Of course, usually by that time it’s left the lights on, and killed the batteries, so 100% to dead real quick).

–Zack