Thanks arnb and mark for your feedback. I think I got everything working correctly. I have a couple questions that I was hoping to get some insight on.
Since I have a pet my Away routine and mode cannot use motion sensors for alarm purposes. I do have a Vacation routine that uses Vacation mode and Armed Away was well. Since I have to manually hit Vacation routine through the app (instead of the keypad), when I get back from Vacation will it still use the keypad delay entry since it is set to Armed Away? Any way to include motion sensors in this mode?
Do both the SHM and the Delay Version 2 app need to have push notifications and text alerts enabled? Or can it just be one or the other?
The only real contact sensors that should have a delay are the doors I select right? If a window sensor is selected in the SHM then those shouldn’t have any delays right? Furthermore, should I create separate “Simulated Contact Sensors” if I want the alert to tell me the correct door that was opened. Right now I only have one simulated sensor, but I get an alert from each door assigned to the sensor.
Is it ok to have Night mode set up as the partial option on the keypad, but also use “Perform routine automatically when things quite down” in case I forgot to arm the Night routine? It seems to be ok right now.
In the Delay app itself can someone explain the last 3 options under Global Settings. I am a little confused on what they are supposed to do.
-Panic Key is Monitored
-Simulated sensors must be unique
-True Entry Delay (seems like this is a must if you want to enter your house
with enough time to turn off the keypad)
Even with the True Entry Delay turned off, I will still have 30 seconds to punch the code into my keypad upon Simulator sensors going off, either in Armed(Stay) or Armed (Away). Window should instantly trigger alarm.
I should check the Simulated sensors must be unique (and add additional simulated sensors) if I want to know if the front door or garage door triggered the alarm after the delay.
This community has been very helpful, but it can get overwhelming reading through all the posts
True Entry Delay honors the entry time in the Delay Profile. It changes how the delay is accomplished. Suggest not using it unless you are unable to acheive an entry delay by setting motion sensors into the delay profile. Windows are controlled by SHM not SHM Delay, and have NO delays.
I’d like to remove the “Simulated sensors may be unique” it’s something left over from my original design process and causes problems for users. Also many people complained they did not want all the simulated sensors in the device list. Stick with the single simulated sensor and let SHM Delay issue its notification. However if you insist upon using it, and have no motion sensors defined in the delay profiles, it works.
Agreed, there is an overwhelming amount of information in the forums.
The DTH is the one i suggest. ULM is deprecated, it was replaced by Lock Manager.
For a comprehensive keypad solution, with entry and exit delays, user pin control, and panic key/pin support, I recently released SHM Delay version 2 Scroll down on that link, there is a section on Xfinity/Iris/Centralite Keypad Installation and TroubleShooting with links on how to reset and rejoin your keypad.
Take your time. First get the keypad functional. Then, install the SHM Delay Version 2 app or whatever you prefer. I understand it appears complicated to get it all working, however I feel the result is worth the time and effort. As I said earlier, take your time and follow the directions.
As for it, or anything, working after the “Big Transition”, I’ve read it will, but who knows.
I’ve been out of the loop for a while - is this still the best Smartapp to use with this Iris keypad?
I’m trying to get it working with the Smart Alarm smartapp as suggested, but I can’t seem to do two things - successfully set a key to press or hold to arm the alarm in either state, or to be able to set a PIN to disarm. The only PIN reference is to block API access?
I’ve read through this thread a bunch of times now, and followed pairing directions to a T. My Iris partially pairs but does not complete pairing? Is this an issue with a newer version of the IRIS Smart Keypad? I hit the tamper switch and the rapid blinking continues for as long as I let it. The device is 5 feet from the hub.
This morning I received an alert from the ST app that my Iris keypad is reporting 0% battery. I’ve only had this thing for a couple of months. It’s functioning properly otherwise, and the battery light on the keypad itself is not lighted up, so I think the notification is wrong. When I look at the “Recently” tab for the device, it shows that yesterday from about noon to 4:30 PM the battery level kept bouncing back and forth between 80% and 0%. Sometimes there would be just a few minutes between each battery report, and sometimes it would report both percentages back-to-back in the same minute. The last battery reported was 0% as of 4:30 yesterday, so I guess that’s why it’s still showing 0% currently on the “Right Now” tab. It doesn’t update when I hit the refresh button on the Right Now tab. I’ve removed each battery one at a time from the keypad (removed one, wait a little while and put it back in, then removed the other, waited a little while, then put it back in). No change.
Is this device handler for the Iris keypad compatible with the new ST app and the hub V3? I had it working on my V2 hub in the old app, but now I can’t get it to pair properly. it constantly says “Checking status…”