SmartThings Community

[RELEASE] Lowes Iris and XFinity CentraLite keypad DTH + Apps

dth_security
smartapp_security
#742

Thanks arnb and mark for your feedback. I think I got everything working correctly. I have a couple questions that I was hoping to get some insight on.

  1. Since I have a pet my Away routine and mode cannot use motion sensors for alarm purposes. I do have a Vacation routine that uses Vacation mode and Armed Away was well. Since I have to manually hit Vacation routine through the app (instead of the keypad), when I get back from Vacation will it still use the keypad delay entry since it is set to Armed Away? Any way to include motion sensors in this mode?

  2. Do both the SHM and the Delay Version 2 app need to have push notifications and text alerts enabled? Or can it just be one or the other?

  3. The only real contact sensors that should have a delay are the doors I select right? If a window sensor is selected in the SHM then those shouldn’t have any delays right? Furthermore, should I create separate “Simulated Contact Sensors” if I want the alert to tell me the correct door that was opened. Right now I only have one simulated sensor, but I get an alert from each door assigned to the sensor.

  4. Is it ok to have Night mode set up as the partial option on the keypad, but also use “Perform routine automatically when things quite down” in case I forgot to arm the Night routine? It seems to be ok right now.

In the Delay app itself can someone explain the last 3 options under Global Settings. I am a little confused on what they are supposed to do.
-Panic Key is Monitored
-Simulated sensors must be unique
-True Entry Delay (seems like this is a must if you want to enter your house
with enough time to turn off the keypad)

Thanks again for everyone’s help!

(Arn B) #743
  1. I feel it would be easier to remove the motion sensors from SHM and SHM Delay, then add them back when you go on vacation

  2. I would say yes. The SHM message is going to show the Simulated Sensor from a SHM Delay alert. If you want to know what caused the alert, the SHM Delay message is required.

  3. Unless you are planning to enter your home through the window, they should not be part of SHM Delay.

  4. on the Iris Partial is StayHome or St Armed (home). It’s Ok to use the automatic running of routines, but suggest setting modefix on to keep the keypad in sync.

Panic is Monitored. Creates an intrusion when Iris panic key is pressed

Simulated sensors unique for people who want to use a unique simulated sensor for each monitored device. normally not used

True entry delay is normally not used. It turns the Alarm system on and off during entry delay when motion sensor selection does not correct an intrusion alert.

#744

Thanks. Just to clarify though:

  1. Even with the True Entry Delay turned off, I will still have 30 seconds to punch the code into my keypad upon Simulator sensors going off, either in Armed(Stay) or Armed (Away). Window should instantly trigger alarm.

  2. I should check the Simulated sensors must be unique (and add additional simulated sensors) if I want to know if the front door or garage door triggered the alarm after the delay.

This community has been very helpful, but it can get overwhelming reading through all the posts :smile:

Thanks again everyone!

(Arn B) #745
  1. True Entry Delay honors the entry time in the Delay Profile. It changes how the delay is accomplished. Suggest not using it unless you are unable to acheive an entry delay by setting motion sensors into the delay profile. Windows are controlled by SHM not SHM Delay, and have NO delays.

  2. I’d like to remove the “Simulated sensors may be unique” it’s something left over from my original design process and causes problems for users. Also many people complained they did not want all the simulated sensors in the device list. Stick with the single simulated sensor and let SHM Delay issue its notification. However if you insist upon using it, and have no motion sensors defined in the delay profiles, it works.

Agreed, there is an overwhelming amount of information in the forums.

#746

My keypad stopped working a while back and I stopped using it…I want to give it another go. Are the latest dth and ulm still at the top of this thread?

(Arn B) #747

The DTH is the one i suggest. ULM is deprecated, it was replaced by Lock Manager.

For a comprehensive keypad solution, with entry and exit delays, user pin control, and panic key/pin support, I recently released SHM Delay version 2 Scroll down on that link, there is a section on Xfinity/Iris/Centralite Keypad Installation and TroubleShooting with links on how to reset and rejoin your keypad.

1 Like
#748

Looks complicated. I’ll give it a shot. Is any of this stuff going to work after SmartThings transitions to Connect?

(Arn B) #749

Take your time. First get the keypad functional. Then, install the SHM Delay Version 2 app or whatever you prefer. I understand it appears complicated to get it all working, however I feel the result is worth the time and effort. As I said earlier, take your time and follow the directions.

As for it, or anything, working after the “Big Transition”, I’ve read it will, but who knows.

#750

Got everything installed and paired so far. It will probably take me a week to figure out how to setup the app properly. Fingers crossed. I really appreciate the work you guys put into this.

(Erik) #751

If only there was a weatherproof keypad that could be used to open and close garage doors!!!

(lehighkid) #752

I use my Iris keypad in combination w/ Lock Manager for exactly this. I can set user codes, tie to routines, etc.

Further up in this post #89, someone provided a response link to weatherproof mounting cases from Amazon. I have had mine up and running for several months issue free.

#753

I’ve been out of the loop for a while - is this still the best Smartapp to use with this Iris keypad?

I’m trying to get it working with the Smart Alarm smartapp as suggested, but I can’t seem to do two things - successfully set a key to press or hold to arm the alarm in either state, or to be able to set a PIN to disarm. The only PIN reference is to block API access?

Any ideas?

(Arn B) #754

You may want to check out my SHM Delay App, full support for Exit and Entry delays, Iris and Centralite/Xfinity keypads, simulated keypads (beta version), user pins and more.

BTW Smart Alarm was deprecated and replaced with Smart Home Monitor

1 Like
#756

I guess this answer is still true. I tested the panic button on my Iris keypad after installing it a few days ago, and the icon in the device screen still shows it in red.

( Cosmo) #757

Modify the DTH not to display the panic tile

(Christopher Saksa) #758

I’ve read through this thread a bunch of times now, and followed pairing directions to a T. My Iris partially pairs but does not complete pairing? Is this an issue with a newer version of the IRIS Smart Keypad? I hit the tamper switch and the rapid blinking continues for as long as I let it. The device is 5 feet from the hub.

I’m stumped…

(Zack Cornelius) #759

Make sure you’ve got the device handler properly installed. It will do that if it’s using the generic “Thing” handler.

You can check with handler it’s using in the API, under my devices. Find the device, and look at the handler.

–Zack

#760

This morning I received an alert from the ST app that my Iris keypad is reporting 0% battery. I’ve only had this thing for a couple of months. It’s functioning properly otherwise, and the battery light on the keypad itself is not lighted up, so I think the notification is wrong. When I look at the “Recently” tab for the device, it shows that yesterday from about noon to 4:30 PM the battery level kept bouncing back and forth between 80% and 0%. Sometimes there would be just a few minutes between each battery report, and sometimes it would report both percentages back-to-back in the same minute. The last battery reported was 0% as of 4:30 yesterday, so I guess that’s why it’s still showing 0% currently on the “Right Now” tab. It doesn’t update when I hit the refresh button on the Right Now tab. I’ve removed each battery one at a time from the keypad (removed one, wait a little while and put it back in, then removed the other, waited a little while, then put it back in). No change.

Any recommendations?

(Christopher Saksa) #761

Zack,

Thanks for your reply… I had the DTH installed and the Iris was recognized in ST. I got frustrated with the Iris system, so I returned them and bought two centralite keypads.

(Cody) #762

Is this device handler for the Iris keypad compatible with the new ST app and the hub V3? I had it working on my V2 hub in the old app, but now I can’t get it to pair properly. it constantly says “Checking status…”