SmartThings Community

[RELEASE] Konnected Security 2.0 - Connect Wired Alarm System Sensors and Siren to SmartThings - big update and new name!


(Dan) #688

I have had DHT22 Temperature/Humidity sensors go bad in the past. Have you tried a new one?


Hi Nate, I’m also interested in your product that interfaces into the existing alarm panel (not replacing it). Do you think this will be available before year end? Thanks


Maybe this has been asked before but do you really need a ST hub to use Konnected? Even when my hub is offline, ST all reports motion sensor status, haven’t tested beyond this. I’m sure others must have, please comment.

(Nate Clark) #691

The hub is required for initial setup & discovery and also for turning on/off switches (i.e. your siren, door chime buzzer). Sensor state updates are pushed directly to the ST cloud so they will still work even if your hub is offline. In other words, Konnected will still trigger an intrusion in the app via a sensor if the hub is offline but it will not be able to activate the siren.

(Kurt) #692

I have been looking into getting the Konnected for my security system conversion. I was about to order when I realized it comes with an AC Adapter. I know that I do have Power running into the Security box but its quite a long ways from the security box to the nearest plug. Is there a way to convert the AC power coming into the box to DC? As I need to keep things “clean” this is the only option I have.

Thank you!

(Clint) #693

For my situation my existing wired alarm had 16v ac into the box from a transformer plug elsewhere. I just left the original alarm panel powered up with its backup battery and took 12v ac off the old panels aux output to power my konnected boards.

(Kurt) #694

Thank you Clint, I do you know how many amps come off of it? ie: would it be enough to power a tablet?

(Clint) #695

I would check the max amps on your existing panel, but i’m running 3 konnected boards, 2 fire HD8’s off of mine. I ran 12V from the old alarm board via the existing wires to the old alarm keypads. Then put 12V to 4V USB converters in junction box behind the fire HD8’s that replaced the old keypads. The old alarm is also still powering all my smoke detectors and hard wired motion sensors, and a hard wired glass break sensor.

(Nate Clark) #696

The best solution is to use these DC screw terminal adapters. Buy one male and one female adapter for either end of your power cable run (they are $1 each):

Then, replace the old AC transformer with the 12V DC transformer that comes with your Konnected kit. Use the wires that are already in the wall to transmit the power to the alarm panel location.

(Kurt) #697

Thank you Nate! Is there a DIY on this so I can review the procedure before placing my order?

(Nate Clark) #698

For those of you who have been waiting for our new product that allows you to connect a wired alarm in parallel to ST, it’s finally here! See the release announcement here:

pinging @davidjc @xAPPO @Neil_Oakley @kamran

(Neil Oakley) #699

Brilliant news! Cant wait to order and try it.

One question first, the annotated picture shows one wire going to each zone, how does that work when each zone on most alarm panels is a loop? Do you have to know which pin is the return and tap into that so the Connected board measures the voltage when the zone is triggered?

(Ben Lebson) #700

The board is tied into the ground of the alarm panel so it uses that as it’s baseline and measures the voltage.

(Neil Oakley) #701

Yeah so you need to figure out which side of each zone if the flow and return right?

Most alarms down have a +ve and Ground pin for each zone, so it’s going to be a case of figuring that out to make sure you tap connected to the correct side of the zone sensor.

(Ben Lebson) #702

That is correct, you will alway connect it to the “hot” side of the sensor. Also, a lot of alarm panels have shared ground terminals for each zone, so on a Vista 20p panel zone 3 and zone 4 use the same ground terminal.

(Louis Naber) #703

Would it be possible to integrate Konnected with an Abode hub (Iota is the one I’ve ordered)?

~ L

(Nate Clark) #704

Not at this time. We currently support SmartThings, Home Assistant, Hubitat and OpenHAB.


Made some changes to router settings to assign static IP to some devices and also to reduce the DHCP range and now one of my boards is still showing the old IP ending with .106 in the ST app but the board has been assigned a new IP ending with .12 and I can browse to it, reboot the board etc from a browser. Already rebooted everything, Anyway to fix this without removing and re adding the board in ST app or changing the DHCP reservation range back to what it was?
I thought this issue was fixed as per this -


Figured it out. Enable device discover had to be ‘on’ for the app to update new board IP.


I think mine might be rebooting because of running out of memory? Any ideas why? I have 5 motion sensors and 1 siren connected. Currently it’s rebooting every few minutes and available memory shows 5K see below.

E:M 360
PANIC: unprotected error in call to Lua API (not enough memory)