I’ve seen this issue a handful of times. Almost always it’s a router issue. Some routers (particularly low-end Netgear routers) seem to have a hard time with multicast traffic from the LAN to WiFi. I’d suggest checking for a router firmware update, or playing around with any settings in your router that may be related to multicast, UPnP or IGMP snooping.
[RELEASE] Konnected Security 2.0 - Connect Wired Alarm System Sensors and Siren to SmartThings - big update and new name!
You were absolutely right! Thanks so much for the quick tip! I have a TP Link Archer C7 (V2), maybe two years old. There was new firmware from July (3.15.2 Build 170525 Rel.37571n). I believe it added one feature that I don’t recall seeing before, may be related. Now there is an IPTV setting called IGMP Proxy and it is enabled by default. Came up first time.
Nate - i’m eagerly awaiting my KS order - cant wait to add my relic of an alarm system into ST Hub.
I’ve read in a few places reference to the lack of a delay. Given my keypad is inside the front door, and my Actiontiles tablet will be in the same place, is there any way to add a delay so that the alarm wont sound the siren until 30 seconds after the front door sensor is broken?
Not yet, but this is a often requested feature and something I’m thinking about how to solve.
You could also use the old, but still working, Smart Alarm SmatApp which has built-in entry and exit delays. I have a co-worker who has been using this SmartApp for years with no issues.
The most current specialized SmartApp solution is:
I can’t seem to find it on the Apple App Store
That’s because it is not an app for your phone… A “SmartApp” is SmartThings Groovy software that runs within the SmartThings framework. In the case of “Smart Alarm”, you’ll need to manually add this SmartApp to your SmartThings Developer IDE. The code is still available via @geko 's Github repository as shown below. Geko is no longer supporting this SmartApp, however it still works very well for my co-worker.
Hey there, my first post!
Thinking of backing the project. Have a couple of questions
Once the board is replaced with the Konnected board and hooked up, can the existing panel/controller (I have a Honeywell) be used alongside smartThings to arm/disarm the system ?
i dont think so, but thought I’d ask anyway.
Can the upgraded system be monitored if need be ? Say by ADT.
No. Konnected is designed to replace the old Honeywell system entirely.
Not by ADT (at least not yet), but SmartThings does have a partnership with Scout Alarm that allows for pro monitoring for a reasonable monthly fee. Konnected works perfectly with this integration, although it’s a SmartThings feature (not a Konnected feature). More info here: https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/209628283-Smart-Home-Monitor-Scout-Alarm
Thanks for the reply and for this amazing offeirng.
Pledged towards the 12 zone system so I can control the existing 6 zones…and hopefully split up some combined window zones
- Just leave the old panel there and not use it.
- Remove the old panel, push the wires into the wall and repair the hole left behind.
- Replace the old panel with a kindle fire tablet running action tiles and use the wires to supply DC power for a USB charger.
Option 3 probably the coolest, search around its been done by many.
This is awesome. Is there anyway to leverage a cell connection if internet/power is down? I am hesitant to make the move without that functionality.
Yep, see this article:
Yeah I soon realised that - I’m familiar with the community developed apps, I have installed many and in this case I went for SHM Delay - tested with simulated contacts and seems to work so far, but cant test for real until my Kickstarter order arrives in January
@heythisisnate - is it possible to use a keypad to arm/disarm the alarm? The delay from SHM Delay is great, but if for some reason my phone crashes, or action tiles goes down, or home wifi dies I wont be able to arm/disarm the alarm. I prefer the physical method using a pin number to arm and disarm my system.
If your home wifi dies then you’re not gonna get the door status, window status, etc over the smart things anyway.
Not useful, and incorrect. Wifi is not the same as internet. Wifi is a RF method of connecting to the LAN, like Ethernet is a hardwired method. You can loose wifi (range, signal quality/noise, jamming) but the router and ST hub will still have perfectly good internet connection.
And when I’m standing at my front door trying to get in out of the rain, I don’t really care about the status of my connected things, I just want to turn the alarm off. So my question to nate was wether I can connect a keypad to the Konnected board to disarm it without having to rely on the SHM app.
You do understand that the konnected panel uses Wi-Fi to connect to the hub and that you need both wifi and Internet working for them to communicate, correct? And without both then like I said it’s not gonna matter, your alarm will not go off if the door Opens even if your system is armed. So I’m not sure how my answer is incorrect when you asked how do I disarm my panel if my wifi is dead.
Yes I do understand this. And I also know that it is the Konnected panel that drives the relay to turn the siren on and off. Hence my original question.
If I can disarm the Konnected panel (via a keypad) so that it doesn’t energize the relay to sound the siren, then I really couldn’t care less what SHM thinks is happening.
Konnected is just a bridge between your physical sensors and SmartThings so it currently has no logic to do what you want. Smart Home Monitor does the arming/disarming and is the thing telling the alarm to activate. But again if your WiFi is down its not going to go off any way. The alarm would never go off when the door opens because it would never get the signal saying the door opened. And if you were using a Z-Wave/ZigBee sensor connected to SmartThings and they do have the ability to run locally and that does set off SHM the alarm still wouldn’t go off because your WiFi is down and there is no way for the hub to tell the alarm to go off.
So again if your WiFi is down the alarm is never going to trip in the first place which is what I said in my first post.