That’s an insane purchase list! I don’t have close to 41 circuits in my house, ignoring all the other stuff!! Also those alarm parts are pricey! If not too late, why not go for an actual alarm product rather than zwave one? So so much cheaper!
Holy moly thats insane!! Will be an absolutely phenomenal house when finished (it probably already is!!!)! Can only imagine how smart it will be with all those Fibaros and other tech!!!
Hope you have a few fun tablets and Google Homes in there too! Also glad to see my Heatmiser integration seems to have made it into the house!
Bet you do! Not the usual set up for a domestic sparks, it’s more in my realm of commercial set up. I’m guessing you don’t mean ring circuit and the lights are on a lighting radial circuit?
I’m interested in what you think of the blind controllers as I have 5 of them to buy. I wanted some ZigBee ones to build that network better and for OTA updates but there is only one type out there and they are at least 3 x the cost of the fibaro ones! It’s just a shame that they are not z-wave 2 versions. Also who are you using for your blinds again I’m struggling to fined people that do mains Roman blinds.
Ok I’ll let you test that then I’m a few months away from it anyway. It does show on all the pictures that they are all connected to the top of the radiator which worries me slightly as I’m planning on putting the TRV at the bottom
Yeah I haven’t seen anything on the page that says they can’t. I assumed it was to do with signal and best position for the thermostat temperature sensor which I possiblity is hence why they do a extra probe. I’m hoping I can just feed my other temperature sensor into in instead.
Looks awesome, I would be buzzing about doing it I love doing stuff like this! Is each box having it own supply circuit or you doing a couple of boxes on each circuit?
Edit: you should start your own thread and keep us updated with how this all goes
Something to watch out for will be switch bounce. I noticed that on a couple of my runs where the switch is a distance from the module the module was seeing two switch events when there was only one physical transition. I put a suppressor across the physical switch and this significantly reduced. I moved the suppressor to the module end and it went away completely. This may be only an issue with toggle switches and I have never seen this where the module is right behind the switch with no 2-way wiring. Something top bear in mind though.
This is to do with how volt free switching works, it can be effected but resistance from the cable. It also depends on how the manufacturer designed it, some stuff I have used won’t do more than a few metres, where as the stuff I set up now will go 200-300m depending on the cable, 1.5 mm flex tends to work best, but 1.5 tripple should also do the job.
Edit: I’ll ask at work if we use any suppression on our switches. Maybe that is why ours don’t have issues with using cat 5 cable, unless you going a long distance.
Is the switch input handled on the device or in the hub? I want to try using one of these for a dimmable motion sensor light setup. My plan would be to wire the motion sensor to the switch input then use the hub to control the dimmer based on the switch state and other on-hub configuration.
Most outdoor motion sensors operation on mains voltage as well. They have three wires. Line, Neutral & Load. When triggered they turn on their internal relay and send 120V on the Load wire, they are usually rated to switch ~4A as well. Part of my whole goal here is to NOT have battery powered stuff. The maintenance and reliability overhead is annoying, especially for something that would be installed 2 stories up on soffit.
I’m still wondering if the switch on this dimmer shows up as an independent open/closed contact or if there is logic internal to the dimmer that triggers the dimmer when the switch contact is closed.
Perfect, hacking it on top of scene IDs is a bit weird but I’m guessing I can use the toggle switch profile with logic in my custom ST code (like webcore, but just a little JS code I write myself) to get the behavior I want.
Thanks for the help! I should have clarified what sort of PIR I was going to use up front