Are you still losing signal with your keypads? I’m about to give up and return my 2 Iris v3 keypads. They consistently disconnect within a few feet of my hub. I have to think there’s no way they could handle 25 ft away.
[RELEASE] Enhanced ZigBee Keypad - Centralite Keypad, Lowes IRIS Keypad, UEI Keypad and Xfinity Keypad Device Handler
Yes, it seems to disconnect a lot but seems better with the latest DTH from a few weeks ago. But it also seems to work most of the time so I’m also wondering if it is like somehow designed to go to sleep and wake up. I have to think that there is something that the IRiS hub does that is different – unless people there are having the same issues. Maybe I’ll give IRiS support a call.
I’ve also been having an issue with the keypad draining the batteries. I had that happen twice recently but I think it is oddly related to the location I had it. I’m not sure yet but what I had done was put it inside a cabinet which also happens to have a battery-powered PIR-triggered LED light and, although I almost can’t believe it, I suspect that it was constantly getting triggered and caused the batteries to drain in a matter of days. I moved the keypad, we’ll see. Another weird behavior perhaps.
I haven’t decided what I’m going to do. But yeah, I’m frustrated and would jump at almost any Zwave keypad (or even another ZigBee) if I could find one.
Have you tried using a ZigBee repeater? It’s been fairly stable when using it through a repeater (Away from the hub). However when used while it’s directly connected to the hub, it seems exhibit issues maintaining a connection.
Maybe, or at least I thought I was. I have a few other ZigBee devices but perhaps they aren’t repeaters.
Is there a way to tell the difference or find list of ones that are? And how would I know if the device is using the repeater? Finally where would one want to position said repeater?
Sorry for the amateur questions, just limited experience with ZigBee as I only have the Halo, Hampton Bay, Sinope, and the ST fob. I had heard about some plug device, loosely called a “peanut plug” that folks use with the Hampton Bay device but I never had any issues so never investigated until now.
Most mains powered ZigBee devices are repeaters (except bulbs because folks tend to turn off the switch). See this topic:
Battery life is a function of usage and how much radio power / retransmission is needed (keeping aside the hardware design). It seems to have a longer battery life when used with a repeater.
For closing the garage door through LUM just assign a door/lock specific/individual “lock” action to close the garage when the keypad is locked.
EDIT: Regarding battery, don’t forget to set the battery type (Lithium, Alkaline, Rechargeable) in the device preferences page (gear icon) as it reports the remaining battery life based on the battery chemistry/discharge curve.
Thanks @RBoy, this makes sense about the repeater. I picked one up and will give it a shot later this week. I guess the Peanut one is popular because it’s only $10 and others claim it works great for them so we shall see. And it turns out that the Halo devices are not repeaters despite being powered (not to mention that I found out at the same time the company is gone, yick!).
As far as that, I don’t think this is possible with the v3 keypad unless you just use it to control the garage door, no? I mean that since you don’t enter a code on the v3 to lock/arm/partial you wouldn’t be able to distinguish arming the system from closing the door and would thus be forced to have two separate keypads I think. Or did you see it in a different way?
It’s treated as a keypad lock without a code, like a Yale or Schlage keypad lock with One touch mode/Lock n Leave enabled.
I think I’m missing something.
Assume I set up the v3 keypad with various users, each with a code and in LUM Iset up the keypad to control SHM. All is well as I can arm the system without a code and On / Partial or disarm the system by entering my code and the Off button. I think this precludes me from using the same keypad to control a garage door because while I could open the door with a disarm, when I hit On / Partial I don’t enter a code and LUM would just arm SHM.
It would still “lock” the keypad which will generate a Locked via Keypad event with no code (like the Yale/Schlage locks I mentioned earlier)
The SHM/ADT arming/disarming is a feature of LUM that will be used to control SHM only if enabled in the app.
The keypad DTH still operates like a lock device that locks when you “arm” it and unlocks" when you disarm it which is used by LUM to take actions. If there is an associated code with the lock/unlock event it can be used to create user specific actions, if not it can still be used to generate generic Keypad lock/unlock actions correspondingly.
Enhanced ZigBee Keypad Lock - Version 01.05.08
- Fix for some keypad models (IRIS v3) dropping connections/losing status
- Panic button resets automatically after 1 minute
- Turn off built in Alarm/Siren when keypad is Disarmed
A SmartApp like Lock User Management or SHM Delay etc is required to arm/disarm SHM directly from the keypad.
Real-time Updates With SmartLocks
TIP: While this device handler is compatible with SmartLocks, if you would like to see real time updates to the dashboard in Smart Locks (locking, unlock etc), change the name of the device handler in metadata section around
line 70 from
name: “Enhanced ZigBee Keypad Lock”
name: “ZigBee Lock”
Publish -> viola, real time updates in SmartLocks
I’'m sorry if this is a question that has already been answered or the answer is implied. I have an existing Xfinity security system that is monitored by Xfinity. Will this app/device handler allow me to integrate Xfinity Home Security into Smartthings?
This allows you to integrate the Keypad with ST instead of whatever Xfinity hardware you have. It’s not a bridge.
Keypad beeps stop working?
Do I miss something here, as soon when I use Rboys DTH on my Iris v2 (3405-L) keypad the keypress beeps are just faint clicking noises, however when I press the option in the App to locate the keypad I here normal beeps. When I switch back to the original DTH keypad beeps are working fine. I have checked the settings and made sure the beep length is on 1, I’ve also check this in the IDE. Any thoughts?
I had everything working perfect with two iris keypads V2, besides a pain to pair sometimes green light would never stop flashing.
Upgraded to a iris V3 and delay entry sounds are not working.
I’m not using smart locks. I just wanted to add a delay entry to my konnected.io wired alarm system.
Using RBoy’s enhanced DH’s
Using 2.0 Delay’s
It fired the following error when I hit create
No signature of method: script_app_metadata_21f1698e_1b45_4012_98df_dc833c0ccffb.getmetadata() is applicable for argument types: (script_app_metadata_21f1698e_1b45_4012_98df_dc833c0ccffb$_run_closure1) values: [script_app_metadata_21f1698e_1b45_4012_98df_dc833c0ccffb$_run_closure1@125d7660] Possible solutions: getMetadata(), getMetaClass(), getMetaClass(), getMetaClass()
Welcome to ST!
This happens a lot, and it’s because you’ve used device type handler code for a SmartApp.
No worries though, just go to Device Handlers and create it there. Also, here’s more information you might find helpful:
I am an amature and currently at a loss…
I am trying to complete the addition of a “Centralite 3400 Keypad” to my Smartthings System.
I have installed the “Enhanced ZigBee Keypad Lock” and “User Lock Manager” into Smartthings.
I got the Smartthings to Recognize and Pair the 3400 Keypad.
I know its Paired since I can press the Tamper Switch on the back of the keypad, and Smartthings sees it as a Tamper Alarm. I can also, in Smartthings, send a Keypad Lock to the Keypad, and it turns the face of the Keypad Red indicating it’s lock.
However, I can’t seem to get the 3 Alarm Modes Buttons on the Keypad to do anything at all.
Am I missing something ?
There are many ways to use the keypad, a couple of things to note which can help plan on how you want to use the keypad (Note that the keypad doesn’t have any build in lock/motors):
- The 3400 keypad accepts only 4 digit codes, you need to program these 4 digit codes using either the Lock User Management (LUM) app or SmartLocks (or through SHM Delay if you’re using that app). Without codes the keypad won’t really work in a meaningful way.
- Once the code is programmed, you need enter the 4 digit code followed by one of the arming/disarming buttons on the keypad. This will trigger the keypad to either “lock” or “unlock”. If you have defined an action in LUM under the Keypad Lock/UnLock actions page then those actions will be triggered (run routines, change, modes, lock/unlock other locks, turn switches on/off etc). If you’re using a different app like Lock and Door Synchronizer then it would active other physical doors/locks.
- If you want to synchronize the keypad with SHM (Smart Home Monitor on the Classic app) then just active the Direct control SHM option in the LUM app under the Lock/Unlock actions page and now you can arm/disarm SHM directly from the keypad using the programmed codes
Got it, Thanks !
It just works backwards than my old keypad.
Can you help me with another problem ?
When I select AWAY on the key pad, then exit the house, the alarm triggers immediately and my siren sounds.
How can I add a 20 delay to get out ?
And the opposite coming home in when in the AWAY mode, when I come in the alarm triggers immediately and my siren sounds.
How can I add a 20 delay to get in to chance the mode to HOME ?