[RELEASE] Enhanced Z-Wave Plus Thermostat Device Handler - Honeywell, GoControl, CT, Linear, Trane, MCO, Remotec

##Z-Wave Thermostat - Version 2.3.1

  • Minor update, display the temperature summary in Celsius when the hub is configured to use C instead of F

##Z-Wave Thermostat - Version 2.4.0

  • Fixed bug with Fan showing ā€˜nullā€™ in the summary status or not showing accurate state
  • Improved reliability of configure button to program thermostat parameters (swing, accuracy etc)
  • Added fingerprints for CT-100 and ZTS-110 for automatic setup when adding new thermostats

Thank you all for your feedback.

If anyone has the fingerprints for any CT thermostats except CT-100 (CT101, CT90, CT110, CT50, CT30, CT80) please contact me. You can find the fingerprint in IDE -> My Device -> Click on your thermostat device -> Raw Description
Just PM it to me along with your CT model number, thanks.

@RBoy , Iā€™m using your code for my CT100, and it works, except for humidity. That doesnā€™t seem to update on itā€™s own on a consistent basis. I end up having to push the refresh button in the app. Iā€™m trying to use Rule Machine to set up a periodic command to refresh the humidity. Iā€™ve been able to do just a general refresh of the thermostat, but Iā€™d like it to be more specific. Is there a command that I can send just to refresh or poll humidity?

Any help figuring out why the humidity doesnā€™t automatically poll or setting up the command would be appreciated. Thanks for your work on the device handler. Aside from that minor inconvenience, it really is great!

It does do it as part of poll but depends upon thermostat, try increasing the delay between the commands in the poll function and itā€™ll work better for you. The rest is upto the thermostat.

thank you for your device. i used it plus the ā€œthermostatā€ multi-tile to make my own layout of the app. it doesnā€™t work as nicely on android, but it looks good on my iPhone. I am not a coder and your code had better connections than the default. Thanks again.

screenshot:

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@RBoy My indicator light on the thermostat was blinking because the filter needed to be replaced and noticed on the unit there is a filter button that you set the number of days to before replacement. Can this be read into the device type and reported so we can see it through the smart app or is that not an attribute that can be read?

Iā€™m not able to find any parameter that reports this.

I have the CT50 that Home Depot used to sell. I have ordered the module and will use this integration to hopefully control it from ST. Question, does anyone with a CT50ā€¦or maybe any CT and use it with SmartTiles? What sort of control do you have? What do you see on your tiles? Thanks

@tgauchat

Thermostat controls (for heating and cooling), current settings, state of HVAC, target temperatures, humidity, temperature, battery.

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Would this device handler help with improve reliability for both setpoints getting set? Thanks.

The enhancements of this device handler are listed in the first post, thereā€™s no change to setpoints per se. However other settings (like reporting frequency and sleep time etc) can impact the reliability of the commands sent / received from the device. I would recommend looking into the communication between your hub and thermostat (esp if you arentā€™ using a C wire, repair your network, reboot your hub, and use active repeaters - best yet use the c-wire or get a device to convert your 4 wire in to a 5 wire solution so you can use C wire)

Iā€™m only using the C wire, no battery. Anything in particular to look for?

Then I would just repair the network followed by a reboot of the hub. You can try changing the reporting frequency to 0.5 degree and turn off the battery save mode (if youā€™re using the RBoy handler).

And when I say reboot I mean power off /on (remove batteries if inserted also).

EDIT: Also make sure that you have the C wire connected BEFORE pairing with the hub, other exlude it and re pair it while the C wire is connected, otherwise it wonā€™t act as a active Z-Wave repeater note and instead will be come a listening beaming device.

Iā€™m not sure what is causing the problem but Iā€™m using this device type for both of my CT30 thermostats and keeping loosing my z wave network. Iā€™ve tried each device and narrowed it down to these two. Once I power cycle them everything goes back to normal. I have them both on c wire with no batteries.

I have 3 Ct100 and CT101 and no issues. But those come with factory fitted zwave modules, possible issue with the plugin modules in the CT-30. Try to exclude them, re pair them and then repair the z-wave network. (also try power cycling your hub donā€™t forget to remove the batteries)

Hi guys - Two questions please:

  1. I have a Mitsubishi minisplit HVAC system that uses proprietary wiring and only works with the Mitsubishi MHK1 thermostat (made by Honeywell for them). HOWEVER - The minisplit system does support the Redlink Internet gateway, which enables me to use Honeywellā€™s My Total Connect Comfort iPhone app and website portal to control the system. Being able to control it via the app is nice, but I also would like to have a Z-Wave thermostat on the wall to control things. Is there any way to use the CT100 or other such Z-wave thermostat so that I can use Z-wave to control the Minisplit? Perhaps I donā€™t need the CT100 and thereā€™s some other device that will act as a bridge between SmartThings and the Redline/Honeywell app?

  2. Regardless of the above, I need an accurate humidity sensor for the room. When the humidity rises above a certain point, I want to send a signal to my GoControl z-wave relay and have it send trigger my dehumidifier to turn on. Likewise when the humidity drops I want to tell the GoControl relay to turn off the dehumidifier.

I already have the GoControl relay part working, so that I can use SmartThings to manually turn on/off the dehumidifier and that works great. But now I need to tie it into a humdistat and have it smartly turn it on/off. What is the best (and best SmartThings supported) device that will monitor the humidity so I can have smart rules that tell the GoControl to toggle the dehumidifier on/off? If the CT100 can be used to control my system (question #1 above) than I suppose I can just use that for both the minisplit and dehumidifier control. But if I canā€™t then it may be overkill to have a whole (and somewhat large, relatively speaking) CT100 on the wall just to act as a humidistat.

Thanks!!

I cannot speak to whether the CT100 will be able to act as a bridge for your minisplit but I would venture to say not without writing some custom code, there may be a way to actually control the current thermostat you have with ST with some custom code since it does have control through a phone app, the question is whether or not the thermostat will allow you to talk to it via some API that is not proprietary which it really sounds like it is so not sure how much luck you will have there. You may want to look at the below thread regarding the thermostat.

As far as humidity sensors there are a few out there but the only one I can provide information on is the Aeotec multisensor that has motion, humidity, LUX, and temp sensors as well, it is a bit pricey but if you also need motion sensing in the same area then it makes it worth it. Below is a link to that on Amazon although if you only need humidity I am sure there are some other sensors that are less expensive. I have found the sensor to be very reliable and it comes with a cable so you can plug it in instead of running on batteries if you want (it also has batteries if you prefer that).

http://www.amazon.com/MultiSensor-ZW100-Aeotec-Cert-ZC10-15070011/dp/B0151Z8ZQY

Thanks Michael. How is the reliability and accuracy of the Aeotec multisensor? I read a review that said the humidity reading was not accurate but that may have been specific to that one user or unit.

Iā€™ve got two, and they both run about 10% low. Itā€™s not bad, but I wouldnā€™t trust them as your primary humidity sensor. I bought a non-smart humidity sensor and put it up next to all my smart ones to calibrate them (after verifying that the other was accurate within 1%-2%). The cheap accurite ones that you can get on Amazon are usually pretty good for that.