I didn’t see this anywhere else on the forum, so for anyone else having problems pairing this switch, this is how I did it.
- Hold down the bottom (off) switch until the light flashes red, then let it go. Takes about 10 seconds.
- Click “Add Device” in the smartthings “Things” menu.
- While the red light is flashing, hold down the bottom (off) switch again for about 5 seconds.
At this point the light should flash green a few times and the device should show up as detected in Smart things.
The directions included elsewhere on the Smartthings site said to hold down the bottom button for 5 seconds - this was completely wrong.
Can I ask where you got this and how much you paid? It doesn’t seem to be readily available online.
And do you have it connected to neutral?
I bought them from the following. They are pricey, but they have a deal if you buy 2 or more ($87.50ea)
I wanted something to control my Kitchen lights and they DO NOT need a neutral which sold it for me. So they were easy to wire up and work like a charm (once you figure out the pairing thing of course).
Do you use LEDs? Any issue with the bulbs staying lit because of the current leaking through?
So far I have only used them on fluroescent lights in the kitchen. I do plan on installing one more in the hall which could use an LED, so I’ll let you know.
The hall switch is hooked up and using a 60w equivalent Cree LED bulb. Seems to be working fine. I don’t see any light bleeding when off.
So just that one bulb? Probably less than 10w right? And no flickering while on?
Yes, a single bulb. 9.5 watts. Looks fine, there is no flickering or weird behavior.
That’s awesome, thanks for answering my questions. Smart lighting without neutral wiring is such a PITA that I’m generally willing to pay a premium for a solution that works well. Maybe Leviton knows that and has priced these switches accordingly…
There are two models of this switch. The ZSS 10 – G does not require a neutral, but does list a minimum load requirement of 25 W.
The ZSS10-N does require a neutral, and should work fine with one A19 LED.
I suppose there’s no guarantee, but based on this super scientific study with an N=1, they (switch without neutral) seem to work with <25W despite what’s in the specs.
You can always try them if you don’t mind swapping them out if they don’t work. There can be a lot of factors because they’re relying on leakage, so the fixture and anything else on the circuit can make a difference as well. The 25 W minimum load will apply to an isolated circuit with a pretty standard fixture.