Other Switches that Don't Require Neutral

@twack any chance you have implemented the ramping rate in any of your dimmer device type? I was hoping to be able to modify it on my GE dimmer switch.

Ok just to report back. I got the Leviton VRS05-1LZ Vizia RF + 5A switch, and replaced the GE Iris 15 Amp from Lowe’s. Both of the switches do NOT require a neutral wire, which is what I needed because of the switch I was using. Both work, but the usage pattern for the dimmer was very problematic for the kids to use, because it wasn’t responsive. I’m still going to try and adjust the ramp rate and see if that will help.

I was able to replace it with the Leviton VRS05-1LZ, and it works very well. The one con to the Levitron, is there is no indication if the light is on or off by the position of the switch. It isn’t a problem if you can see the light, but if you can’t it might be an issue.

For me, I’m going to use 2 or 3 of the Leviton VRS05-1LZ in places where it is too costly to require to put a neutral wire in. They are most expensive, but they seem to work very well.

Just thought, I would I would let everyone know.

I have re-wired several of my outputs to use the GE/Jasco switches, but in a few places I did get a Leviton VRS05-1LZ Vizia RF. They work very well, and do NOT require neutral. They work well, and I like the LED light on them. They only work w/ incandescent bulbs, so just be aware of that because those bulbs are becoming more and more difficult to find.

Besides that they work well, they are most expensive but it was cheaper for me than running a neutral in a lot of places.

Is there a minimum wattage requirement for Leviton VRS05-1LZ Vizia RF? I have LED bulbs everywhere and get in trouble with z-wave dimmers because of it.

Here is a link to the instruction manual for the Leviton VRS05 -

I think it requires a 40W minimum load.

I’m pretty new to all of this, but do I need anything in addition to that switch for basic on/off control of a “one switch” light with ST? The auxiliary term throws me off and makes me think I need something more.

Wrong type of switch. The auxiliary should be used with another switch for 3 way functionality
 Not independently.

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What gary said. :blush:. From the 45610 manual:

http://jascoproducts.com/sites/default/files/product/manuals/45610WB-manual-English.pdf

The 45610 auxiliary switch is not Z-Wave enabled and must be used exclusively with one of the Z-Wave devices listed above. It is not designed for stand- alone use to control an electrical load. It does not have Z-Wave functionality and does not act as a repeater in your Z-Wave control network.

@kenac , your instinct about the term “auxiliary” is correct. This switch doesn’t actually control the light, it just asks the master switch to do so. It’s intended for use cases like one hall light apparently controlled by a switch at each end of the hall, but actually controlled by a master with the auxiliary at the other end just asking the master to do something.

Hi friends I test the cooper switch that don’t use neutral. The only ploblem with this switch is for incandecent light only, if you put LED or CFL it will never turn off and it will blink like crazy
 But for incandecent work great with ST