Osram/Sylvania Lightify (it works)

Perhaps the new EU firmware has the same issues that the US firmware has always had, and with it you are not longer able to pair the Osram units with the Philips hub?

Some how i managed to get it working, I had to reset the lights twice then put them next to the HUE hub and then scan on the hue app and then they finally showed.

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Hi,

I performed touchlink on one of my lightify bulb and it connects with my hue bridge. Now, even though i removed the bulb from my hue app, i can’t seem to make smartthings discover it. May I know if i could do something to reconnect it back to my smartthings hub?

thanks

Does the $14.99 Osram Lightify A19 that ST sells:

Dim well ? Hopefully better than my GE link bulbs. My old TCP bulbs dimmed very well.

After a power outage, when the house power comes back on does the Osram light come on or stay off (light was off before power outage). GE bulbs woke me up last night when the power flickered, my old TCP bulbs would stay off.

Nice light output?

Thanks,
Dave

have 2 RGBW and 1 white, my first bulbs, so have no comparrison to make with others, they dim ok
think that they turn on, after a power outage, at least from the physical switch they do
nice light output
interested to see/test a Cree Connected
will post more after I’ll buy one and test/compare
hope it helps!
PS: price looks good

FYI for people with Osram Lightify hub. I only use mine for firmware updates so I unplugged it just in case. :slight_smile:

What do you mean by dim well? They do dim, but they kinda step through the dimming. They don’t dim as smoothly as other bulbs. They don’t get quite as dim as Hue White bulbs, but match lowest brightness I see on Cree Connected and GE Link.

They do come back on when when power comes back.

If you want to see more, checkout my blog post Welcome konnectedreviews.com - BlueHost.com

Nice review. :sunglasses: As far as your incompatibility issues, that likely had something to do with the zigbee channels you were on ( not just the profiles). But that’s getting very technical. If you check the forums for discussions of using a Hue bulb without the hue bridge, you’ll find information about the channel issue.

We should also add that a community member here has created a power outage management smart app which will reset your smart bulbs back to whatever state they were in before the power outage.

Personally, I like knowing there was a power outage, but if you prefer to sleep through one, check this out:

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Yea, I probably should’ve said something about the channels. Honestly was trying to shorten the article and get the idea “its probably better to not switch hubs” out.

Thanks for directing me to this. I somehow doubt it’ll save us from getting woken up as the bulbs above our heads will come on before the app can turn them back down–but hopefully it’ll improve the experience.

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Is that flaw still relevant if the Osram bulbs are directly connected to ST hub?

Maybe. The report mentions both Lightify Gateway and Zigbee protocol vulnerabilities.

The gateway vulnerabilities is supposed to be fixed soon but I’m not sure how the Zigbee flaw impacts ST since there was no detail given.

I thought my bulb was acting up, so I removed it from the ST hub and reset it according to instructions. Now I can’t get it to re-pair. Anyone know what might be the cause or how to debug it?

The light does blink 3 times when I turn it on.

EDIT: Nevermind, I figured it out. Somehow after another reset it just added as an un-configured “Thing”, so I edited the device type in the IDE to make it work.

I have all types of Osram lightify indoor bulbs in my house I believe :slight_smile:
They are all connected to ST.

When connected to the Lightfy hub, they can fade level, meaning in the official app when choosing another level of light, instead of just cutting directly to that level, it makes a smooth transition to the new level in just split second or so. Looks better than just cutting.

But when hooked up to ST, I cannot do the same effect. I’m using CoRE to program a lot of stuff, and it has a “fade” and "fade (level) but they dont do the trick.

I’m thinking either I’m missing a feature in CoRE or I should should use a diffent DH og 3rd, it just cannot fade through ST.

My current used DH:
Color: ZLL RGBW Bulb
Whites: ZLL White Color Temperature Bulb

Anyone have a lightify bulb actually die(or maybe brick) on them yet?

House is full of lightify now including 12 T/W GU10s (and another 3 I still haven’t gotten around to fitting yet) and I’m fully up to date on firmware…

Except for this one GU10 bulb which seems dead… turning on and off from physical switch does nothing (in fact hadn’t sensored up the bathroom yet so for six months it was fine in just physical switch mode)…

Am I unlucky or are these starting to die already?

Looks like both WiFi and Zigbee received a firmware update today for the gateway.

WiFi-
Old: 1.1.2.107
New: 1.1.3.22

Zigbee-
Old: 1.2.0.67
New: 1.2.0.68

Has anyone found out where the new outdoor flex strips and motion sensors are being sold? I saw they were mentioned in the latest app update and newsletter but can’t seem to find them online lol.

As far as I know, zigbee that being use in Osram Lightify bulb don’t have any frequencies version like z-wave.
So, will it work if I use Osram from UK or Europe ?

I’m using hub V1 by the way

Are you in the US and thinking of using UK/ European bulbs? One thing to think about is that Osram bulbs in UK or Europe are 220 volts vs 120 volts available in the US. I know from personal experience (I tried an Osram candelabra bulb with a socket adaptor) that they won’t even light with 120 volts.

I thought hub V2 will support both Z-wave US and EU standard, but it’s not
I live in Asia with 220 volt electricity, so if i’m using ST hub US version it will not work with Z-wave EU standard.

So I think I can only use device with zigbee, because some zigbee device support 220 VAC, and zigbee have same standard anywhere.

I tried a A19 110V bulb (US) with 220V. Actually it worked, BUT when I try to dim to zero or turn off, the light goes crazy.

I can imagine - in my case it was the other way round - bummer because there seems to be no zigbee or zwave candelabra base at 120v… (and going to to a z-wave or zigbee switch would be a big hassle in my older house)