[OBSOLETE] Original & Aqara Xiaomi Zigbee Sensors (contact, temp, motion, button, outlet, leak, etc)

I don’t think the android app plays a part in the connectivity between sensors and the hub. So that update shouldn’t affect it.

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I’ve same issue, have a WXKG02LM that’s setup to run Webcore automation using the DTH from @bsrpanger.

Worked perfectly for well over a year but switch has stopped responding. I’ve deleted the switch from smartthings classic app, eventually re-added (Direct not via other device) and waited for battery signal. Tested and all three button presses worked perfectly (in St original app). Assuming I was back on track, I reinstalled in the hall but by this evening the switch was unresponsive. I’ve checked battery and unit for damage.

Anyone got ideas? I see there’s a post above from @rwhapham about the V2 hub failing. Seems unlikely as all other SM kit working as before?

@orangebucket does your DHT support the WXKG02LM? If so is it reliable?

Thanks!

No, I didn’t play with that handler as I don’t have that device. In any case any changes I’ve made to handlers has been about making them new app friendly, and also stripping out the custom bits,
and the original code is essentially unchanged.

My Aqara devices are on a Zigbee mesh with nothing but IKEA Tradfri Outlets and I pair them in situ. I still get the odd bit of bonkers behaviour where they end up routing through an unknown device.

Otherwise any problems I have can usually be put down to not having a particularly long range and there not being a repeater in a suitable location.

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No worries. Thanks. I’ve not changed the location where it worked happily for a year.

What channel/frequency did you move your router to? I have two Xiaomi window/door contacts, one on my garage door, the other on my mail box. The garage door has worked flawlessly for over a year, the mail box drops off after a couple of days. Both are about the same distance from the hub and I have removed all Zigbee repeating devices (actually I added a couple hoping they would help, did not). Driving me nuts. Would like to know how I might change my router channel/frequency to eliminate that.
Thanks,
John

On an ST hub, the Zigbee channel is fixed the first time you setup your hub. Unless something has changed, the only way to change the Zigbee channel is to start again from scratch and then there is no guarantee you’ll get a better channel than before.

What you can do is change your 2.4Ghz WiFi to avoid the overlapping channels. Here’s another post that discusses the issue. Also try to put some distance (2M-3M minimum) between any Wi-Fi routers or access points and the ST hub. .

I’m using DTH v1.3 for the Aqara Temperature/Humidity sensor and in the classic app in the things view it will display the temperature but in the new app it displays the humidity. How do I get the new app to display the temperature instead of humidity on the “Home” screen? Sorry if this has been covered already I may have missed it in the thread. I tried adding ocfDeviceType to the definition but that doesn’t seem to make a difference.

Hi! This is a fairly long post but I want to be thorough so bear with me.

I bought two Aqara wireless switches today, single and double, and I’ve been experimenting with the double button variant, Aqara Switch WXKG02LM (2018) and I’m surprised how well it works controlling hue and tradfri bulbs given all the problems and headache I’ve seen in this thread.

Setup:
ST hub v3 firmware version: 000.031.00004 (Note: Swedish/EU app and hub if it’s of importance)
DTH: Version 0.9.2 taken from this thread , model: lumi.remote.b286acn01
Philips Hue + hue lights and switches,(hue linked to ST) , Ikea tradfri lights + samsung motion sensors connected directly to ST hub.
I’m using the old Smartthings Classic android app (version 2.20.0) and configured the buttons via smartapp Button controller. The button controller shows 6 number of buttons configurable as “Pushed” or “Held”. The DTH also shows numberofbuttons: 6.

This is working so far:
Left click (button 1 pushed), Left click (button 1 Held) , Rightclick (Button 2 pushed), Rightclick (Button 2 Held), Right+Left click (Button 3 pushed), Right+Left Held (Button 3 held) , Left double click (Button 4 pushed). = 6 combinations working.
(Note: “Button x pushed/held” is what’s reported in the “recently-tab of the switch button” so there’s no confusion.)

However, Right Double click (Button 5 pushed) and Left + Right Double click (Button 6 pushed) does not work for me.

My question:
I would like to know if there is a way to map the “Button (x) Held” so it acts as a conventional dimmer and dims/increasing luminosity depending on how long I hold the button pushed down? I know (from testing) it takes around 2 seconds for the “Button Held” to activate, but after that period I would like the bulbs to go from whatever dim % it’s currently at --> Max, (Or lowest if dimming decreasingly), if I hold the button/buttons down for a few extra seconds. So a full dim from 1% to 100% could take about 3-4 extra seconds or a 1% --> 50% increase 1.5-2 sec after the initial 2 seconds so I keep a good distance to the switch reset value of 10 sec.

Hope I’m making sense and I’m thankful for any and all help, I’m fairly new at this.

I keep having issues with the temp/humid sensors (EDIT: and also a door contact), some just keep disconnecting after a few days. They are connected directly to the hub, no hops in between. Any tips on what I can try to get this more stable? Would it help if i include an aqara hub?

The issue you are experiencing is due to the check in intervals from the aqara sensors. If a device doesn’t check in within a certain amount of time, ST will mark it as offline. You need to add a routing device (the best option in my opinion is the $10 Ikea pocket socket). These have a bigger window for allowing check ins, so many users, myself included, have no issues with aqara devices dropping off once you add these into your zigbee mesh and get your aqara devices routing through them.

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Thanks, i will try that ikea socket. I havent found out how to reroute a device via another device. How does this work?

I got the ikea socket, as well as an OSRAM ZigBee socket. Both act as router. I reconnected the devices a few times untill they connected via one of the routers, but they keep going offline. It’s curious that some of the sensors and contacts never appear to go offline, it’s mostly the same ones. Any other tips?

EDIT: The 2 devices that went offline automatically reconnected, 1 is connected via the OSRAM socket, the other via the IKEA socket. If the devices will restore themselves that would be great, but it didnt think that was possible so not sure what happened…

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So I used the DTH from @bsrpanger. It worked well, but didn’t display properly in the new app, which I mostly use.
Pictures show the new app issues:

I didn’t realize that @ orangebucket already fixed it for the new app, I found it after reading more of this long thread: I needed to use this handler for the new app:

orangebucket/Anidea-for-SmartThings/blob/master/devicetypes/orangebucket/anidea-for-aqara-temperature.src/anidea-for-aqara-temperature.groovy?ts=4

The battery is showing 50% which is the default value, but it is a brand new battery. I will wait and see if it updates later.

(edit) The sensor dropped off my network. I re-added it today using the reset button and finally the battery updated to the correct value. I had to remove power from my SYLVANIA Smart BR30 RGBW lights and Innr Outlet (Plug4) because the sensor was routing through 3 bulbs and the innr outlet to the hub. I also removed the battery on the sensor, then reconnected it, with the bulbs and outlet removed it connected directly to the hub. Will watch to see if it drops off the network again.

I just use SmartSense Temp/Humidity Sensor so it runs locally. You just don’t get atmospheric pressure with this DTH.

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It should do. It is always wise to seed device attributes with valid values and units in the handler install() method, or to get it to immediately refresh the values if your device can do that. Otherwise the device looks broken in the new app until the attributes are all populated. For devices that are being updated rather than installed for the first time, it would be possible to leave any existing attribute values alone but I prefer to try and make it obvious that the device has been messed around with and so encourage the user to make sure it is working.

Thought I would giveyou an update. Given my 2016 aqara appeared to have failed in situ I used this as an excuse to buy the new “D1” variant from aliexpress. This came ridiculously quickly (less than a week to London) and cost about £10, I paired and installed where the old 2016 switch was.

It worked off the bat, initially seen as Xiaomi temp sensor but I changed to the @bsrpanger DH and it works perfectly. Initially.

After an hour it too had lost connection. After reading more here I switched zigbee channel on my hue app and that appears to have resolved the issue for both the new D1 and the 2016 variants. Both now humming along.

I also got the no nuetral D1 wall switch to play with, will report back how well this plays with my setup. Plan to test @aonghusmor DH with that.

And I’ve now got the nag bar to move across to the newer ST app. I mainly code in Webcore so don’t have many other smartapps in play. So hoping this works OK!

Apparently the SmartSense Temp/Humidity Sensor is not made anymore, I couldn’t find it for sale.

It’s a stock DTH you can use for the aqara sensors.

I haven’t looked at this specific Aqara switch, but I have written a DTH for other Aqara switches. I assume the basic setup is the same, even if there are details which are different. It is very difficult to distinguish between ‘held’ and ‘double clicked’ on these switches. In both cases the switch sends the same message to the hub. When the switch is held, a second message is sent when the switch is released. Thus, in order to distinguish between these cases, it would be necessary to wait until the 2nd message is, or is not, received. But how long to wait? There would then be no response until the switch is released or the DTH has decided it isn’t going to receive the 2nd message. That wouldn’t be acceptable to most users. In summary, you are not going to be able to distinguish between ‘held’ and ‘double clicked’ unless Xiaomi make a change to the firmware of the switches.