Thanks both, I was thinking I was going to have to DIY something, but was thinking electric circuit - but using one of these looks a far neater option - will check relative sizes etc
Yeah, I read this a while back. Figured, if they want in, then they’ll get in. Don’t get me wrong, I am all for the most economical way to achieve a desired result. I just love spending other people’s money!
I have 4 exterior doors and every time I purchased another smart lock it was like nails in my eye sockets. Glad I did though because those things have been the most useful HA that I have invested in.
Don’t even know where my keys are…
From the article:
During the period when a user paired their controller (such as a smartphone or smart home hub) with the device
So it’s ONLY vulnerable during the pairing process. i.e. they would need access to your lock physically and assuming it’s isn’t already paired to your existing hub. If it’s already paired, sorry guys you’ll have to find a way to hack into exclude it first, but then it would be easier to just break down the door
But then again if they have access to the “pairing” of the lock, why go through the process of hacking it? Can’t you just “unlock” it after pairing it using your app?
So the moral of this story:
Don’t leave your lock lying around unpaired - but then again you need the “Master Code” to start the pairing process…
Here’s one option:
Here’s another but the thread he links to with photos is gone / locked. I think the idea was the same as above but with a switch buried in the rebate rather than in the deadbolt housing.
As I recall the switch he used was this style (I bookmarked it to buy one but eventually got a smart lock instead):
And here’s my super-cheesy short-term approach:
I love all my smart home gear but I am still not getting any “smart” locks or door openers…
Just to add a little clarification:
I’m the OP for your second link: “New(?) way to monitor a deadbolt lock”.
The micro switch that I use is this type:
There are lots of similar items out there.
Yes, I mounted the switch in the post that forms the rough opening for the door. It gets mounted close enough to the door jam that when the deadbolt is locked it trips the micro switch. Unfortunately, I no longer have the pictures of the installation.
I can try to take a couple new ones if anyone is interested.
I currently have two doors set up with this method, and both work very well after a couple years of use.
I actually sketched out such an idea a couple years ago lol.
In my plan, the magnet is not attached to the deadbolt but to a pivot arm inside the door jamb. As the deadbolt moves in, it pivots the arm to have the magnet swing into position next to the sensor - which with this arrangement can be housed such that the battery is easily accessible (a removable piece of molding).
The problem of course would have been that it would weaken the door jamb a bit, so I rolled with a standard sensor at the top of the door.
This has proven to be an interesting thread. My issue was/is doors, including the garage being left unlocked/open.
Actually, the only real reason why I even started down this worm hole is because the lights were being left on.
I love choices. Was just given the OP a hard time.
200+ devices later, I know that I have went way overboard.
Just to report back- works wonderfully with my test door - I am using some “Mini Neodymium Magnet- 5 x 2mm n50 Rare Earth Strong Permanent Disc” magnets from ebay ~£2 $3, and a stripped down xiaomi door sensor (the oval shaped ones as they seem a little smaller), that sensor fits within the rebate where the bolt on the goes across (upvc door the rebate is quite large - in vertical plane)
I’ve dockered a DH to report ‘locked and unlocked’ in lieu of ‘open closed’ and all works well so far.
will try to get some when finished work, but really not much to see juts a bolt with magnets and a disassembled sensor - it’s the fact I have large rebates in the doors that it works
I did something similar to this except I used a pressure sensor that I installed in the door frame so the bolt would contact it when the deadbolt was locked. The issue I ran into is in the afternoon the heat causes the sensor to not respond reliably. Pressure/Force Sensitive Resister and a door sensor, Works!
I’m going to have to try this method instead and re purpose the ecolink sensor to monitor my condensate pump
As mentioned this is just to prove the concept - end solution I’ll make neater etc - and cause I had a bit of time for a play - but has been working fine for about a week now
I’d love to hear how you did this. The microswitch option (I assume you had the deadbolt push in the switch?) seems like a great solution!
Take a look at these two threads:
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
For whatever reason, I can get to the “New(?) Way” thread, but the underlying instructions link, or the 87202 link you noted in your response both give me a “Sorry, you don’t have access to that topic!” which I can’t say I’ve ever seen before.
If you can easily show me the instructions, that would be great, but I obviously don’t want to create more work for you.
I hope this helps:
The micro lever switch that I mounted in the door jamb is this type of thing:
They can be wired to be either normally open or normally closed.
Remove the molding (casing) on the inside latch side of the door to expose the area around the strike plate for the deadbolt.
Using a chisel or maybe a spade bit(as I did) you can open a space behind the strike plate to mount the micro switch.
Mount the switch with nails or screws so that the deadbolt trips the switch when the deadbolt is locked.
In this case I bent the lever to improve the contact with the deadbolt, but this is not needed in some installations.
Run two small gauge wires from this switch to an ecolink or similiar contact switch:
You can mount the door/window contact switch in any convenient location around the door.
You only need the main switch unit. You don’t need to use the magnet.
Not all Door/Window switches have the option to connect another switch, the Eco-Link does.
When the door is locked the Ecolink gets tripped and reports a closed status in Smartthings.
When it gets unlocked, it trips the Ecolink again and it shows up as open in Smartthings.
You can then use rules in various ways.
Get notified when the door gets locked or unlocked.
Notify you just before bedtime or the time you normally leave home to go to work, if the door is unlocked. If you don’t get notified, the door must be locked.
Sorry for the thread revival but i’m going through the same steps now. I’ve got the concept working, however i can’t seem to reliably glue the magnet to the door lock. The metal that surround the hole in the wooden frame keeps attracting the magnet and drawing it off of the lock.
Have you tried gluing or otherwise securing the magnets in place?