[OBSOLETE] Sonoff, Sonoff TH, S20, Dual, 4CH, POW, & Touch Device Handler & SmartApp ($5 & $10 Smart Switches)

No better success, even put the hub directly on the router without the microtik. What’s weird is if I hit the ST button and then quickly hit refresh one or two times it’ll kick in and work, sometimes flipping on/off more than once, and then other times, bam just works. Without doing a packet capture to be sure, it looks like the hub isn’t sending the requests at all. Is there a way to enable more debugging to see what post/get (however it’s working) is being sent out local?

2 out of 5… I am really that unlucky? time to buy some more and see :slight_smile:

UPDATE: After repeated flash attempt, I was able to get another one to work. no clue what I did differently.

YEAH… one more working :)… one left…

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Have you used the low voltage version?

@erocm1231, care to share a link for good jumper wires? I was hoping I had something here that would work. But none of my stuff will work.


Wow… after tons of re-flashing, I finally got all 5 working. Got 5 more coming, hope they won’t be as nasty as these.

@raggedrebel92, What I did was solder on a row of header to make it easier.

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Thanks! You pointed me in the right direction! I’ve done lots of android modding but thats all over USB. Searching 2.54MM Jumper wires got me something I think will work. Now just to wait for the mail man!

Also if anyone else is curious… DHL got them here in 7 days.

I haven’t yet, but have considered ordering one to play with. If you do get one, let me know what you think of it.

So got my first two setup… and I’m pretty impressed. Both are in LED Lamps, I’ve got three more to put in lamps and then I’m going to try some of them with ceiling fan motors. Both fans pull 50W at <1.0amps, so I figure, what the hell.

There pretty durable too. I was not paying attention setting the first one up and left the leads a little too long. Went to move it and the wires touched. Burnt the plastic housing, but after trimming the wire and resetting the breaker, it still works!

Edit, <1.0 amp not <10 amp.

Yeah, I really like the device for the price point. I am actually about finished with a custom firmware that I built from scratch (plus a few publicly available esp8266 libraries), that simplifies the setup and should be extremely reliable. Not that EasyESP isn’t reliable, but this is custom built for this switch and for SmartThings. When I do release it you will be able to use the firmware update page on the switch itself so hooking it up to a serial cable will not be necessary for the reflash from EasyESP to my firmware.


Sweet! So far my only issue is it’s saying it’s still configuring. Everything works though.

Low voltage came in, gonna play with it this weekend.

@erocm1231 absolutely top job!

Ordered one, followed your instructions and worked like a charm.

Top result, these are available in the UK, delivered in 2 days and all for less than a tenner (Amazon). Really, nice work, thanks for writing up and sharing!

Couple of points for those trying this.

You’ll need the driver fort the FTDI, available here: http://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm

Once that’s installed it will tell you which COM port is assigned.

On my Sonoff there were a number of holes, like Eric states look for the 4 or 5 in the middle of the board (mine had to holes that were square.

Thanks again! Time to order some more!

Don’t use that driver if you have a counterfeit, it could permanently disable the FTDI adapter. Unless they changed that recently with an update. There was a LOT of fallout over them bricking a customers device, counterfeit or not, uncool of them, as the customer is hard pressed to know if they have a real one or not.

Can someone send me picture for pins i am not able flash switch. it keep saying connect error
i am using windows 7 PC

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So these little switches are fantastic. Had them in a fan for a few days and no issues so far. Luckily the DHL guy just made a delivery.


I finally got around to posting my custom firmware and Service Manager App for this switch. It is much easier to configure and use. Tailored to the switch and SmartThings as well so it should work be a better option.

@Scepterr and anyone else who is interested, I have been working on another ESP8266 based project for a RGBW lightstrip controller that I am proud of. It is basically finished and I should be posting it within the next few weeks. It is an H801 RGBW device and it is pretty cool. If ordered now it will probably be delivered about the time that I release the info.


Sounds interesting - where can we order it (just to make sure it’s the right one) ?

Oh, and if you want to switch over from the old version to the new version of code/firmware, you can use the OTA firmware update method mentioned in the top post. You will likely have to remove the switches from SmartThings and then use the Sonoff (Connect) app to add them again. The new setup is pretty slick though so it might be worth it.

@hongtat I bought mine from here: Link, but there are several places to buy them.

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More money leaving the wallet! Will these also work with RGB strips vs RGBW? Even if the color’s are “off” I’d imagine I can compensate to some degree?

Yep, the “W” on the lightstrips I have used are completely separate LEDs and the way that the device handler is designed is you either choose an RGB color or you choose a level of W. In fact, I have created the firmware to control them one at a time as well, because I usually only use one or the other (Color or Warm White). For reference take a look at my MiPow Playbulb handler. The look and functionality will be similar. As you can see from the picture, you have a color picker and below is a slider for the white channel. You could completely ignore the White slider and only use the color picker and color level slider.

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