No, you don’t need to manually create any switches. The SmartApp does everything for you as long as you have all the requirements installed. Like @dalec mentioned, make sure that the Connect SmartApp, Controller Handler, and Virtual Handler are all installed and published. Record the logs during the error. I install and remove devices with this SmartApp (as well as the Sonoff one) all of the time. I just added a new device as a test and it worked as expected.
nope, the virtual switches are created in a different step if you want them. If you can get a hold of an apple device , iPad, iPhone to finish off the configuring.
OK thanks guys. Ifigured it out.
Apparently I installed the smart app as a device handler. (or just goofed and didn’t install correctly)
It’s all good now. It works great !!
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When we create the virtual switches or programs for each device.
Can we hide or delete the programs that are not used?
I only have one program for each switch but I still see 6 virtual switches on my Things.
Sure can. Just go to each virtual device individually that you don’t want to use, click gear in upper right corner, then click the red REMOVE button. If you want to remove all the virtual devices with a single click you can use the H801 RGBW smartapp itself. I used this as a fast lazy way to rename all the virtual switches by using Delete, change Prefix, and Create.
To “hide” them you could use the Rooms feature of the mobile app where you select the devices you want to see by room location
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Couldn’t have said it better myself. 
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I’ve flashed, connected everything up according to directions, have the DTH installed and can access and control the device thru the ip address on my computer. So I know it’s connected to my wifi and responding. However, when trying to connect the app i am getting this when looking at live logging…
a9f00914-97a4-4606-82eb-07b3a86f9b24 12:10:52 AM: debug verifyDevices()
a9f00914-97a4-4606-82eb-07b3a86f9b24 12:10:40 AM: error java.lang.NullPointerException: Cannot invoke method startsWith() on null object @ line 646
a9f00914-97a4-4606-82eb-07b3a86f9b24 12:10:40 AM: trace description.xml response (application/xml)
a9f00914-97a4-4606-82eb-07b3a86f9b24 12:10:32 AM: debug verifyDevices()
It repeats like this without ever connecting the device.
Any suggestions?
What step exactly are you at… When you say “when trying to connect the app” does that mean you clicked the Discover Devices in the SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect) app and it is unable to find your device that has successfully saved the credentials? But through the IP address you can turn off/on/dim the channels correct?
Yes, that is exactly the spot I am in. From my computer, I can reach the device via its IP address. Here is a screen shot. The IP address of my SmartThings hub is correctly entered as the HA Controller IP too.
Interesting IP for the SmartThings. What is the IP of the H801 that you are showing the screen capture of?
The H801 Wifi device is 10.0.0.33
I switched my internal network from 192.168.1.xxx to be 10.0.0.xxx. It was an alternate choice on my router. I have reserved IP addresses for my routers, ST Hub, all my sonos devices, my fibaro devices, Lifx bulbs, my cell phones and my computer.
I am not sure what to look for next if everyone is on the same subnet. @michaelahess is pretty good at WiFi issue solving and may have a suggestion so I will see if we can get him involved.
Sorry to hijack this, but I’m thinking I could make these into a garage door opener. It seems you are pretty knowledgeable with these dry contacts for the Sonoff. So just so I have this right, if I do the mod you explained, I would put mains into the input and the bell wires for the opener into the output.
The way I’m understanding this is the mains supply power to the PSU and the mod restricts the mains to get to the relay. The output “neutral” side (bell wire for me) is simply jumped over to the other side of the relay to be shorted.
This seems like it would work pretty well as long as I could figure out a way to send a push button signal with a simulated button (if that’s even a thing)
Is device communication instant with the webpage? If so I’d very much guess it’s an issue with SSDP.
First do you have a second router you could use as just an AP?
Default router, and set up just the basics would be a good step. Backup config so it’s easy to revert after testing.
Assuming it’s a single router/AP and no repeaters? If so, unplug any and test again.
Exactly, the mains in is just a LV power supply (3V3 and 5V I think), so will draw about 1.5W.
The cut to the board ensures mains electricity (Live) does not reach the relay and the wire link then connects the other screw terminal to the ex-live terminal of the relay - hence making it volt-free.
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So I got mine all set up and installed, and they work great! I’ve got two white strips - one above my cabinets and one below - so that I can control them separately. The controller transition is set to “fade”. When I turn them on or off, the fade gets janky; however, if I turn just one white controller on or of it’s very smooth.
Is this a known thing / limitation of the controller?
Power draw vs the fets used. If they are short runs this can happen, and I have an older strip that does it too for unknown reasons, when my other strips don’t. If both do it, try different strip, if one does it, swap controllers and see if maybe one is bad.
Interesting, they are both short runs (probably 5ft and 9 ft). Both strips on both controllers do it. 1 out of those 4 strips is actually from a different reel, too, although the same type, etc.
What’s odd is that it only happens when w1 & w2 dim at the same time. If either dim on their own, everything looks great. I should try putting both strips in one channel and seeing what happens. I’d like to keep them on separate channels if possible, though.
Edit: Also, I can dim from 5% to 100% and back with no flicker. It’s just the on/off mechanism that seems to trigger it.
I’ll go test all mine this evening, see if any do this, they may and I’ve just never noticed. I have LED G10’s on some Insteon Dimmers that do this, so it’s kinda a common thing in my house.
Mostly instant communication from the webpage. What is SSDP?
I have three routers. One is being used as the DHCP router and the other two are being used as “slaves” just for their ports and WAPs. I don’t have any repeaters. All have the same subnet and i have reserved all of their IP addresses.
The H801 is in the same room as the main router and it’s connected to that one specifically.