The LED strip is always “ON” for a second and “OFF” when I turn on the power. Is there a way to set a default color/level (or program) so that it could set to my “default” upon power on?
I have set the default color & level but it doesn’t work with power on/off and I do not want the controller to be always powered on.
I didn’t need to adjust any physical things, To clear the wifi creds I erased the flash using esptool.py and re-flashed the firmware. I have ssdp working on my router, and I can see other ssdp devices on my network with upnp-inspector, but for whatever reason my board is not responding to multicast packets. I can verify this by sniffing traffic using wireshark. There might be a bug with my esp8266 board and the firmware. It would be nice to have the source code for the firmware, but I understand if it can’t be made available.
I’ll keep digging when I get some more time. 
@hongtat Currently there is not a way to accomplish this. If you cut power to the controller, its default state when power is reapplied is “off”.
@dumb_thumbs I am still working on a simple way to reset the settings on the device. To easily connect to a different access point, the controller needs to not be able to see the currently configured AP. So, if you turn off the other AP or move the controller out of range and power it on, it should broadcast its adhoc AP.
First on my list when I get time is to add the ability to “manually add” a controller through the SmartLife Connect App. The option will be on the same page as the “discover” link, but will ask you to put in the controller IP. Because the MAC address is also needed, the link back to that controller in the main page of the app needs to send the user to a “the device is being configured” page until the newly installed device communicates with the controller and received its MAC address. The latter part is already configured into the device handler, so the modifications to the SmartApp are really all that is needed. I am in the middle of a move so have been rather busy over the last few weeks. I’ll let you know when I have had a chance to work on it.
Interesting. Thats the wireless router i’m using. I wonder if the issue is my router and not PFsense. Ill have to investigate.
On my ASUS Nighthawk all my NodeMCU’s, Amazon Echo, and the Wink Hub (used as a SmartThings Lutron bridge) always gave me problems until I split my AP’s into two; one for 5ghz, and one for 2.4ghz. But now everything seems fine…
Oh and nice to know I’m not alone in the manual build club!
I actually re-did mine and got it down to a much smaller and hide-able size (on the left in photo)
Cheers!
I’m not sure what the issue is, but I can hold off for a bit. I’ll just control the lights using the webpage running on the ESP8266 board and a switch. My DIY version can’t be as small as yours, it will be designed to run about 18 meters of RGB lights (60 lights a meter). At full white, full power, I figure it will draw about 20 amps. I have some high power mosfets mounted to a large heatsink. I’m at the point of actually implementing and installing things, and this is where I get stuck on projects. I need my brother here to help me, he’s a design/manufacturing engineer. I have a deadline of next week from my wife because the lights are part of Halloween decorations
Finally had some time last night and have added the ability to add a device manually through the SmartLife Connect app. I moved about a week ago and have my main SmartThings system torn down, so I can’t fully test it. If anyone would like to give it a try and let me know, that would be great.
You need to update:
SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect) - SmartApp
SmartLife RGBW Controller - Device Handler
I got my RGBW controllers today and followed your great instructions.
I successfully flashed the firmware, joined my Wifi network, setup the device handlers, SmartApp etc and all was looking good.
However, although I can switch on / off the lights and set the colour through the sliders or colour picker I can’t seem to get the 6 virtual switches to do anything.
I have programmed the switches, and setup the virtual switches but when I click on them nothing happens.
Anybody have any idea what I could be doing wrong ?
My mistake, i hadn’t set a duration.
So to fade to a colour i set a duration and then repeat forever?
Thanks a bunch for adding this feature. I think I have a network issue or something weird between my smarthings hub and the esp8266. I can send commands from the hub using the app, and verify they change stuff using the {ip}/status call from a web browser, but the UI of the smarrthings app is not updating. Looking at debug messages in the developer console, I can see the command going out, but it never calls the parse() function, so for whatever reason data is not making its way back.
From a laptop connected to the wireless hub over the wired LAN connection, I can use my web browser to set things and read the status.
Maybe I’ll try another esp8266 board …
So if you want to just fade between colors you would set the transition to fade, set the color to whatever, and then set the duration to what you desire. So, if I wanted the color to fade from red to green until stopped.
Number of Actions - 2
Action 1 - Red, 100%, Fade, 5000ms
Action 2 - Green, 100%, Fade, 5000ms
Number of times - Forever
A cool one is to just create 1 Random Action. I really like this one:
Number of Actions - 1
Action 1 - Random, 100%, Fade, Random Duration Between 2000ms and 5000ms
Number of times - Forever
Remember to hit done through all the windows when finished so it pushes it over to the controller.
@dumb_thumbs Do you have any wifi repeaters or wifi bridges on your network. I have seen problems when those devices are used.
NEW FIRMWARE - I have been playing with methods of doing factory reset on this device. The new firmware has two methods of accomplishing this. Since the device doesn’t have any buttons by default, I wanted to create a way for everyone to be able to do a factory reset.
This method might be easier to do with a surge strip with a button attached. Unplug controller and plug back in. Within 2 - 5 seconds after plugging in, unplug and plug back in. Repeat this process 4 times. You can know you are doing it correctly because on the second plug in the LED Strip will light up GREEN, the third it will light up BLUE, and the fourth it will light up RED. After it turns RED, you can just leave it alone. The little red led will blink 5 times slowly and then the RED LED strip will start to flash as the storage is being wiped. After that is finished the LEDs will turn off.
After the device is turned on, jump J3 for a) between 10-20 seconds will reset the wifi b) between 20-60 seconds will reset everything. If you reset the wifi correctly the little RED LED will blink 3 times quickly. If you reset all the device settings correctly the little RED LED will blink 5 times slowly.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Also, does anyone have any cool programs to use for Halloween? Looking for some good ideas.
I had a brief power outage and now 2 of 3 controllers are non responsive to commands through the smartapp or atomations. Only the red light os on. Thoughts? Loss wifi connectivity? How do I restore them?
First thing to check is to just unplug them and plug them back in. It is possible that they were up before your wifi was restored and just gave up connecting to your wifi.
The next thing to check is to see if they are broadcasting their access points (espRGBW.[mac address]). If so, just connect to them and reconnect them to your network.
Fixed it by connecting to the device VIA wifi and then going through the config again.
I also had a power outage last night and I had to reconnect all of my H801’s to the network again even though I have them setup with Static IP’s. Is there any way around this problem? Real pain to have to connect and label each device to the network again.
That is not typical Behavior. Did you try to unplug and plug them back in after the power failure?
If I run my jigsaw on the power strip I have one plugged into, it turns on, then randomly off, then on. It’s kinda fun.
Yes. That was the first thing I tried. I think the two that I had issues with are running 1 version old firmware. They are in locations that are difficult to get to.
No, once the power comes back on they come back on which is when they all have to be rejoined to the network.
