H801:
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJMRLUY
FTDI Adapter:
Firmware Flash Utility:
Firmware:
You connect the FTDI pins TX/RX/GND to their respective labeled holes on the H801. Alternatively you can solder some pins to them for easier connection.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1LEIL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then jumper J3 before applying power. See the below image. You can either use 12v with the green VCC/GND on the RIGHT of the device (where it says Power and Signal on the outer casing) or with a 3.3v line from your FTDI adapter if it provides this. Some have only a 5v wired, be careful! The side to power is easy to recognize as it has the capacitor. The other side has 4 of the mosfets that power the LEDs.
Here’s what one of mine looks like on the test bench jumpered but no FTDI adapter yet connected:
Once you have the physical bits worked out, find your COM port of the FTDI adapter via Device Manager (assuming Windows here) and start a command prompt within the folder you extracted the Firmware Update Utility to. Good idea to start the cmd window as administrator.
Make sure the firmware BIN is in the same folder and type this to start the flash:
esptool.exe -vv -cd nodemcu -cb 115200 -cp COM{COM Port # Goes HERE} -ca 0x00000 -cf SmartLifeRGBWController.ino.generic.bin
So if your COM port is 9 it looks like this:
esptool.exe -vv -cd nodemcu -cb 115200 -cp COM9 -ca 0x00000 -cf SmartLifeRGBWController.ino.generic.bin
If everything works, you’ll get some text, then a bunch of slowly progressing periods, if you are doing this by hand, hold very still with your wires! Once it’s done it says something about a reboot, and that’s it, back to the prompt. You can screw this up all you want, it won’t brick the device, just keep trying.
Once the firmware is on the device, power cycle it for good measure.
Using a phone/laptop connect to the newly found WiFi access point and use the password configme to get in. Your phone/laptop will get an IP of 192.168.4.x and the device is 192.168.4.1, go to that IP with a web browser and you can configure the device. That part is pretty self explanatory.
After that’s done, install the SmartApps and Device Type in the first post.
Go to your marketplace in the ST app and add the SmartLife RGBW Light (Connect) one, then setup the devices that are found. Make sure to give it a GOOD 5 minutes!
Edit: If ANY of this seems unknown to you or makes no sense, spend some time researching what you don’t understand before trying this. It’s all very easy, but that’s coming from someone who’s done this sort of thing a lot! My perspective may be skewed!
Edit2: Some additional things @wolo724 made me realize I should list.
Extensions for the RGB(W) LED’s:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4HI746/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And some jumper wires if you need a cable between your FTDI and the H801:
And as for power supplies, anything that’s 12v DC with the correct amperage. 2amp is a good starting point unless you are putting more than 2 strands together. And even with 1 or 2, may not be enough if you have them all on at 100% for prolonged periods. Larger installs can use something like this:
Smaller single strip ones could be something like this:
Always check reviews on these! Most are really cheap and can start fires, gotta find the good ones…I reuse old AC to DC wall warts I randomly collect, they work great.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH POWER SUPPLY SELECTION! I’m not recommending what I linked, just showing examples. This is the MOST critical component you will select, be safe, and assume you need more amps than you think you do! 