SmartThings Community

New House Build Update - UK

project_wholehouse
project_lighting
project_accessible
(Robin) #81

You mean the smart modules? If so, Vesternet (see post 1)

(Robin) #82

Stair fabrication in Poland is starting to take shape… just the stringer and balustrade built so far.

2 Likes
(David) #83

Robin,

Missed this trail completely until now. Lots of hard work! Are you almost done? I did something similar, but took the lazy option and had the electrician do most of it. It’s all working well, and having lots of fun.

I have a question re the Velux windows. You mention for 3 window groups you need 1 double relay and another single relay. Probably a stupid question but don’t you need one double relay to control one group, as will need one switch to open and another to close? So to control three groups independently don’t you need three double relays?

I have two Velux windows I will be looking to add to Smartthings. Won’t I need 1 KLF200 and two double relays? Plus 2 contact sensors (assume this is for feedback that the window has opened or closed!?)

Have you done your work on the Veluxs yet?

Hope all going well!

David.

2 Likes
(Robin) #84

Depends which wiring method / end result you choose… as I’m not interested in stops at specific positions, just open all the way or closed, I only need a single relay per group of windows:

image

Obviously the Fibaro relays don’t toggle like this (they only have on/off, not position1, position2), so the 2-way switch shown above will need to be a dumb (cheap) SPDT relay, triggered by a a single Fibaro channel. i.e.

.
To have the ability to stop at any position, it would indeed require two smart relay channels per group:

image

But to accurately control the timing with ST, in order to achieve a set position, it would be completely unreliable and inconsistent, hence why I’m just taking the cheaper option.

2 Likes
(Robin) #85

Another successful day… nearly done now:

1 Like
(Robin) #86

Stairs are complete and were delivered today, going to be installed this week.

(These were taken in the workshop in Poland before dismantling for shipping):




1 Like
(Anthony Kahwati) #87

Wow. Amazing project. Great work on all the hubs as well.
What did you do to get around the problem of the usb poking out of the wall? I have the same issue for a nest thermostat. I’ve mounted it on the wall and channelled the wall, there is then a hole level with a USB port plug socket and I have hidden the hole behind a brush plate.
Functional but I still have a usb cable poking out and a brush plate.
I’ve been looking for some sort of internal sub termination but finding nothing.
Cheers

(Robin) #88

@Kaj0103

Welcome to the forum, we used a POE injector for our tablets, a POE to USB adaptor in a box behind the tablet and a tablet wall mount frame to hide the USB going into the side of the tablet.

https://www.vidabox.com/kiosks/vidamount-on-wall-tablet-mount-amazon-fire-7th-generation-2017-hd10-white.html

In regards to Nest, the usb / 5v supply comes into the rear of the thermostat so hidden by default.

1 Like
(Anthony Kahwati) #89

Thanks for the reply!
I may have mis-represented what I wanted to do. I’ve attached a picture. I want to hide the USB so it is t just this random cable coming out of the wall.
I know you can buy elbow connectors to neaten it up but what would be ideal would be some way to plug it in within the wall, so a behind wall usb power supply.
Proba my not possible I. Guessing but I’m interested in what people are doing.

#90

I don’t know about building code in the UK, but in the US there are lots of ways to hide a similar power outlet. You can find examples for media centers and home theater set ups which can be used.

I know Syncbox is one UK company:

https://www.sync-box.com

You can also see what other people have done in this forum by looking at the following thread, which is about mounting tablets for dashboard apps.

1 Like
(Robin) #91

I see… I have a similar USB wire coming out a wall in my other home. It didn’t bother me too much so I left it as-is.

What is the purpose of the brush plate? Your usb wire comes out the side of the plate, so brushes are not doing anything.

When designing the tablet power supply for this project, I considered several options, but most can’t be done on a retrofit like yours.

One option I considered was an extra deep back box housing a USB power module from a grid system… the module would have been placed sideways in the box, loose and without the use of a grid system faceplate, though I have my doubts if this could have passed BS 7671 requirements.

If you can get such an install approved, you could use the faceplate mounting holes in the back box to mount the thermostat. You would however have to use the plastic backing plate that came with your Nest as the round thermostat won’t cover a square box.

If you search eBay / Amazon etc there are plenty of 240v to 5v converters, but putting a loose circuit board like that in a wall is never going to be good plan.

Depending on your USB socket, you may be able to access 5v from behind, just a bit of soldering if that’s the case.

Personally, I don’t think your setup looks all that bad, you’ve made a good job of a difficult situation :wink:

1 Like
(Robin) #92

My homemade feature light works… yey (and big sigh of relief)!!

Started out life as 16 dirt cheap pendant lights from B&Q (UK equivalent of Home Depot), had a custom ceiling rose manufactured / powder coated, purchased a drum of stainless steel flex and voila…


.

6 Likes
(Alwas) #93

Hi Robin I see your electrical boxes still have a lot of space in them, if you wanted a hand getting more stuff in there, I don’t mind lending some of my electrical wiring finesse to help out.
In this one small box I have connected 2 Fibaro single relays, a Fibaro double relay, a hard wired Fibaro door/window sensor, Aeotec multi sensor 6, Xbee module and a Fibaro RGBW controller. Everything runs local as of today apart from the Xbee of course.

1 Like
(Robin) #94

haha… good luck figuring out how it works in 2 years time lol

3 Likes
(Robin) #95

I’ve been working on the “software” side of things. Ultimately all of these custom DTH’s are powered via webCoRE, essentially just a stack of value tiles and simulated switches / dimmers.

  1. Overall summary of the home:
    • Internal / external Temperatures
    • Displays (and controls) SHM status
    • Which doors / windows are open
    • Who is home
    • Which lights are on, and power usage
    • Uses correct grammar i.e.
      • All lights are off
      • The Living Room light is on
      • The Living Room and Kitchen lights are on


.
.

  1. This is a more detailed summary device for climate control:
    • Groups together temperature and humidity readings from various sensors
    • Switches for fans, AC, central heating (Nest) - on/off
    • Switches to toggle fan modes between ‘manual’ / Trigger by Humidity / Trigger by Light Switch
    • Temperature setpoint of air conditioning units
    • Air Conditioning Modes (Heat / Cool / Dry / Fan / Auto)
    • When commissioned, Neo underfloor heating will be included


.
.

  1. And we have one of these to control each fan:
    • Normal on/off switch
    • Displays current temperature & humidity
    • Switches to toggle fan modes between ‘manual’ / Trigger by Humidity / Trigger by Light Switch
    • Set humidity level required to trigger / de-trigger the fan (when in humidity mode)
    • Set overrun time in minutes (when in light switch mode) i.e. how long to keep the fan on after turning off the light

1 Like