Hello Brandon.
Thanks for the response… I figured that part out, now I’m stuck at the
zone part of it I can actually see the zone row added into my things
Section of the app after following the necessary steps to add them… but
when I open a door or something nothing happens… and the picture for the
zones look different than the pictures of the guys who steps I followed
what am I missing? I hope you or someone can help with this as I have
everything else working flawlessly this is the only thing left I think…
Ok hopefully someone can tell me if there is any way to get what I want to work. I have this working fine. I figured out (and saw it in post) that the LOCK is for AWAY and SWITCH is for STAY.
Alexa disables lock commands because I guess it thinks its a security issue. So has anyone found a way to setup a routine or something that will set the alarm to away.
Even if I change mode to AWAY and set it to switch it goes to STAY.
thanks,
Jeff
I tried it out but couldn’t get it to work either. Ultimately, I realized that when I’m in the home and have the opportunity to use the Echo I never need to set the alarm to Away because I’m in the home, so I didn’t pursue it any further.
I can live with it but would be nice to be able to set a new event that changes the mode to away and then arms it. I have an echo in my garage. as I am getting into my car I say arm away and it arms and I drive off (the delay is 2 minutes so plenty of time to drive off)
I spent the last day reading through this thread, and while I haven’t read every post I’ve read a fair amount of them. I was able to follow BrianWilson’s instructions and have the device added. I have the device set up correctly, I believe, however when ever I try to arm it, nothing happens on my alarm panel. Below are the logs from the event.
21b3026a-aea4-4b66-84a2-f5e1d8d09996 2:13:23 PM: debug Smart Things has logged In. SessionID:
21b3026a-aea4-4b66-84a2-f5e1d8d09996 2:13:23 PM: debug Executed login
21b3026a-aea4-4b66-84a2-f5e1d8d09996 2:13:23 PM: debug Executing 'Disarm’
21b3026a-aea4-4b66-84a2-f5e1d8d09996 2:13:12 PM: debug Smart Things has successfully logged out
21b3026a-aea4-4b66-84a2-f5e1d8d09996 2:13:12 PM: debug During logout -
21b3026a-aea4-4b66-84a2-f5e1d8d09996 2:13:12 PM: debug Status is: Arming
Any idea what is going on? Thanks
Does this work with the “Smart Home Monitor”? I’ve gotten the Honewell security system to show up as a device under “My Home” and I can arm.disarm it, but on the Dashboard, the arm/disarm states listed under the Smart Home Monitor do absolutely nothing. Anyone have luck getting that to work?
I am able to do the arm stay functionality by turning “on” the security system. However, if I ask Alexa to “lock” the security system, she says it doesn’t support that. I’d like to be able to start the Arm Away countdown by asking as well. How did you get the ‘Arm Away’ functionality to work?
I don’t think SHM will do what you’re wanting it to do. Instead, I recommend just creating a Routine on the Automations tab to trigger the system for you. For example, you can have the routine automatically turn on the system whenever someone leaves.
There is a roundabout way of doing this. Essentially, you just need to login to the IDE and create a virtual light switch and then create a Routine in ST that “locks” your Honeywell alarm when this virtual light switch is turned. Then just sync this new virtual light switch with Alexa and you’re all set.
Has anyone else had trouble with this not working any longer? I look at the logs and it isn’t getting a session ID and not arming. What should I be looking for?
I can’t get it to work either. I keep getting a error on line 155 and 132.
I just got this all installed. I am pretty excited. It seems to be working. I had to line 82 problem at first, but I went back into the config and found that I needed to manually enter the app id and application version. Kind of a duh moment.
Now the important part.
Is there a way for me to ask alexa (Amazon Echo and Amazon Dot) if the alarm is armed or not. For example, "Alexa, is Total Connect armed (or on?) Has anyone gotten that far with the voice control?
Pretty sure that’s not possible. I don’t believe Alexa can be checking status like that.
Is there a step by step instruction for this setup somewhere in order? It all seems jumbled together. Obviously I’m missing something… I’m still stuck on trying to get my location ID and all the info needed for the app created from the code.
its on this thread a little further up - a great post by @triggertact and it works like a charm except one thing (I note below)
One constant issue I had (as was reported above) was that I was able to login and it says “arming” but nothing happens and it stays disarmed. After so much back and forth I found the issue. TotalConnect has a bug where it asks for the pin even though the checkbox for pin is not checked. I fixed it by checking it and saving the account. Then again unchecking it and saving the account. This toggles the database to mark it as unchecked and then things started working. Thanks again for this great handler and instructions (triggertact and others)
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Thanks. This was easy to setup after I found trigger tacts post at
But I’m having the same issue you are where I can get the status of my alarm, but when I hit arm stay it acts like it is going, but nothing happens. I tried your workaround by saving the Total Connect account with the prompt for pin, saving, then unchecking and saving but it didn’t seem to help me.
And if I log into total connect with the new account I created, I can only set the alarm by pressing the keypad. If I just hit arm stay or arm away on the total connect console, it does nothing. Which is why I’m assuming the app isn’t working in smart things…
I’d like this functionality too. When using automation in ST, I can get the Totalconnect system to arm & disarm and set the state of the Smart Home Monitor to armed or disarmed. The problem is when the Totalconnect is disarmed at the keypad and not using Smartthings, the Smart Home Monitor stays in the armed state. Is there a way to work around this issue?
In step 6 from my post up above, I mention grabbing the first 7 digits of the IDS of either are longer than that. Did this apply in your case? Perhaps try just grabbing the first 6 digits instead and see if that works. I think I heard that worked for some people instead of 7 digits before.