I just “googled” around a bit and found a programmable fireplace remote that turns a gas fireplace on/off automatically… I thinks this would be more dangerous than a out-of-sight remote control.
I agree, I wouldn’t put a gas fireplace on a timer. That said, this one does have a built-in temperature shut off feature, although that won’t necessarily save you from a fire.
When the ambient temperature at the THERMISTOR, inside the receiver case, reaches 130°F, the THERMISTOR will automatically shut the appliance down and the RECEIVER will begin emitting a series of 3 “beeps”, every 4 seconds. When the ambient temperature, at the RECEIVER, drops between 120°F and 130°F, the user can reactivate the appliance by pushing the MODE button on the transmitter. The word ON must display on the LCD screen. When the MODE button is pressed to ON, the THERMISTOR “resets” itself and the replace will begin operating again. However, the “beep-
ing” will continue, if the ambient temperature remains between 120°F and 130°F. This “beeping” alerts the user that the RECEIVER should be repositioned so the ambient temperature drops below 120°F.
The same unit also shuts down the remote if it goes outside of a range of 20 feet. My guess is this was added to meet some specific code requirement.
At all times and in all OPERATING MODES, the transmitter sends an RF signal every fteen (15) minutes, to the receiver, indicating that the transmitter is within the normal operating range of 20-feet. Should the receiver NOT receive a transmit- ter signal every 15 minutes, the IC software, in the RECEIVER will begin a 2-HOUR (120-minute) countdown timing func- tion. If during this 2-hour period, the receiver does not receive a signal from the transmitter, the receiver will shut down the replace being controlled by the receiver. The RECEIVER will then emit a series of rapid “beeps” for a period of 10 seconds. Then after 10 seconds of rapid beeping, the RECEIVER will continue to emit a single “beep” every 4 seconds until a transmitter signal is again received. The intermittent 4 second beeping will go on for as long as the receiver’s bat- teries last which could be in excess of one year.
However, It’s not just about one being more dangerous than the other, it’s about what your particular local codes are, so you’ll need to check. They may allow one and not the other or not allow both. There will be variation from one place to another.
I was thinking about being physically in the room control. So if you are using an approved thermostat accessory it will bring the fireplace on and off based on temperature regardless if someone is in the room or not… sort of like what the ST would do. I certainly don’t disagree with any of your points, just trying to logically think it through is all.
Any chance you could still help me with the way to wire the HH52P? Winter is coming on and and I’d really like to add the fireplace into some of my routines…THANKS!
Actually yes… I need to pull mine all apart anyway. I want to inspect everything and make sure there are no issues before I put this back into commission.
I’ll take pictures and everything.
I’m interested as well. I want to automate mine this winter.
Ok. What I’ll do is get it all done and create a page on the wiki… then I’ll post a link here. Give me some time in this one ok.
Sorry, that sounds like a lot of hassle… Hope it is not…If it is just let me know…and thanks!
Sure you are busy…so I am uploading my own drawing…Is this what you did?
To everybody else…I’m just asking…not sure this is right.
Awesome picture and excellent detail.
I’m using an Aeon Microswitch in place of your GE switch and I’m also using the wall switch that was installed by the builder.
Mine is wired like this…
13 & 14 are load and common
12 & 4 are the wires going to the fireplace electronics box
I have the wall switch going to the microswitch. I can turn it one with the app and the wall switch.
What you’ve got looks good, but be sure.
Use a multimeter and before you wire it to the fireplace check your voltages.
Connect power to the switch. Check your terminals when the relay is off and on to make sure you’re not accidentally sending 110 volts into the fireplace.
That is exactly the problem that I have. The fireplace wall switch does not have a neutral line.
I have the same wiring diagram for my fireplace. I’m debating just putting a WeMo switch between the 120vac power outlet and the transformer. It seems like this would work…the switch on the wall couldn’t turn it on, but it could turn it off. Any reason why you didn’t consider this?
From my understanding, most fireplace switches run off of the very low voltage that the pilot gives the gas valve. The switch opens/closes the circuit but the voltage is so low that a regular 120v (anything) would fry the circuit and potentially burn your house down. Seems like even 24v is too much juice. But if the circuit is just mechanically opening and closing then shouldn’t be any issues.
Have you all considered the following:
Couldn’t you just use a z-wave low voltage relay that simply opens/closes the circuit going to the gas valve and a battery powered on/off z-wave switch to control the relay via a virtual switch in smart things? This way you have a physical switch that stays in sync. Con is you need power to the relay in order to turn on the fireplace.
A little more complex:
Another option is to install a smart switch for the fan switch but also use that switch to control the relay via a virtual switch. Most fans don’t turn on until the fireplace gets hot. Still need power to the relay.
Using the same thought process, you could also put an AC 110/120V Coil General Purpose Power Relay on the Fan circuit so when you turn on your fan via smart switch, the relay mechanically closes the circuit going to the gas valve. 1 smart switch. 1 cheap coil relay. All in sync…Same wiring as above but doesn’t use the switch for the gas valve.
This assumes that your fireplace is wired for a fan motor.
In case anyone is interested in a slightly different approach…I took one of my pocket sockets and plugged in near the fireplace, in a hidden location. Took an extension cord and chopped the female end off, ran into the wall and up into the fireplace switch box. Mounted the relay linked below inside the switch box, then wired the extension cord into the relay to give on/off control. Then wired the gas valve leads to the relay in parallel with the physical fireplace switch, so either can turn it on. Since I already had the pocket socket and the extra extension cord, total cost was < $10. The nice thing about this is that during the 8 months out of the year that it’s too warm to run the fireplace, I can repurpose the pocket socket into something more useful, then put it back in the winter.
I like your approach with having the existing wall switch controlling the Aeotec - I’m still in the process of training the family to use automation, but they still have their “but the switch is right THERE” moments. I was initially going to solve this with the Remotec ZFM-80, but it doesn’t seem to be in-stock anywhere.
So, after some research and looking at your solution, I’m thinking about picking up the following:
Seems to be the 2nd gen of the one you used.
I’d like to avoid having to pull wires into the box with the existing wall switch, but it doesn’t seem like I have much choice with this solution. That’s the part that I’ll struggle with the most.
Do you have a suggestion of what kind of extension cord or gauge wire to use?
The 2nd gen reports power.
I used a standard extension cord that you can buy at any store. I just used one that is 3 prong. That is important.
One is common, one is neutral, and one is ground. That is what I used to wire up the Aeon Switch. I then used the same extension cord to run from the Aeon switch to the wall switch. If you measure the voltage there you will see 115 vac, but that’s a reference voltage and not a load bearing line. The in wall switch just break that circuit and causes the aeon to switch on and off.
So, I have voice control with Alexa, I have wall switch control, I have ST smart app control, I have physical control at the Aeon switch, I have emergency control at the on/off switch for the surge protector, and I can just unplug the whole thing.
and when the power goes out, I can use batteries.
For something like a fireplace, there can’t be enough control measures.
Thanks for the reply!
So, just following your reply to @ts1234, I think I get the wiring configuration between the Aeotec (13 & 14), fireplace (12 & 4), and wall switch (switch leads on the Aeotec); at least I hope I do! The relay itself is confusing to me, but I can follow what you did easily enough. I’ll probably pick up a multimeter with the rest of the parts just to make sure I don’t fry anything (or myself).
Where are you using the ground wire in all of this?
The three prong grounded extension cord… has 3 wires in it. One goes to common (hot), one goes to neutral, and one goes to ground.
I used this image to know which was which on the extension cord and wired it accordingly.
For my fireplace I am just going to use the MimoLite.
It will take the switch and send the signal to the fireplace which does not need the full 110VAC and is a dry contact. My concern with the AeoTec is that it is meant to route full 110VAC to the load and not many fireplaces are.
My father has another fireplace that just uses a 9V DC power source. I may use the relay and a dry contact to trigger that in an automated fashion.
Right, the 110 goes to the dry contact relay.