…Just a note if anyone does decides to automate their fireplace: Instead of an aeon switch and a dry contact relay, you can also use the remotecdry contact z-wave fixture module. same functionality, about the same price but slightly easier setup.
I’m planning on using the Remotec zwave relay along with the cool enhancements @Mike_Maxwell created. Turning on the fireplace from a regular toggle switch, zwave physical switch or from virtual ST action will ignite the fireplace but will/can limit runtime to say 60mins as a safeguard if you forget to switch it off. Cheers.
Good plan! If you have a temp sensor nearby you can also turn the fireplace off when it gets too hot.
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Yeah this automation worries me. especially with all of the ST instability lately. Every switch in my home came on randomly at 3 a.m. a couple weeks ago. That would have included my fireplace if I set this up.
I don’t know electric codes for any areas, but it makes sense that you wouldn’t be able to put in remote/automatic operation because of safety.
exactly why I use the remotec with its builtin hardware timer…
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Yeah… My bad, i should have posted the link to your zfm80 device type earlier…
I have been using it for quite some time now. Never had any issues! Good work, as always!
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The plug wire coming from my microswitch controller is plugged into a power strip. During the time I’m not using the fireplace, I turn it off there and then it can’t be turned on at all.
FYI - I live in Alabama and my fireplace is used only a few weeks a year.
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Don’t want to be a bother…but if you get a chance…even a “text” based explanation of pinout would be great! The terminals on my base are numbered…assume it is the same as your DYF08A Base.
@pizzinini I would think a good rule of thumb to use is if the retailers are selling the thermostat accessories for operating a gas fireplace then using ST can’t be any different?
The difference is range. Not what you are likely to do, but what you actually are able to do. I don’t know of any fireplace remote being sold in the US that meets code that allows you to turn on the fireplace from your office 15 miles away. But SmartThings will allow you to do that. You may say that you won’t do it, but won’t and can’t are two different things, especially in building codes. 
I just “googled” around a bit and found a programmable fireplace remote that turns a gas fireplace on/off automatically… I thinks this would be more dangerous than a out-of-sight remote control.
I agree, I wouldn’t put a gas fireplace on a timer. That said, this one does have a built-in temperature shut off feature, although that won’t necessarily save you from a fire.
When the ambient temperature at the THERMISTOR, inside the receiver case, reaches 130°F, the THERMISTOR will automatically shut the appliance down and the RECEIVER will begin emitting a series of 3 “beeps”, every 4 seconds. When the ambient temperature, at the RECEIVER, drops between 120°F and 130°F, the user can reactivate the appliance by pushing the MODE button on the transmitter. The word ON must display on the LCD screen. When the MODE button is pressed to ON, the THERMISTOR “resets” itself and the replace will begin operating again. However, the “beep-
ing” will continue, if the ambient temperature remains between 120°F and 130°F. This “beeping” alerts the user that the RECEIVER should be repositioned so the ambient temperature drops below 120°F.
The same unit also shuts down the remote if it goes outside of a range of 20 feet. My guess is this was added to meet some specific code requirement.
At all times and in all OPERATING MODES, the transmitter sends an RF signal every fteen (15) minutes, to the receiver, indicating that the transmitter is within the normal operating range of 20-feet. Should the receiver NOT receive a transmit- ter signal every 15 minutes, the IC software, in the RECEIVER will begin a 2-HOUR (120-minute) countdown timing func- tion. If during this 2-hour period, the receiver does not receive a signal from the transmitter, the receiver will shut down the replace being controlled by the receiver. The RECEIVER will then emit a series of rapid “beeps” for a period of 10 seconds. Then after 10 seconds of rapid beeping, the RECEIVER will continue to emit a single “beep” every 4 seconds until a transmitter signal is again received. The intermittent 4 second beeping will go on for as long as the receiver’s bat- teries last which could be in excess of one year.
However, It’s not just about one being more dangerous than the other, it’s about what your particular local codes are, so you’ll need to check. They may allow one and not the other or not allow both. There will be variation from one place to another.
I was thinking about being physically in the room control. So if you are using an approved thermostat accessory it will bring the fireplace on and off based on temperature regardless if someone is in the room or not… sort of like what the ST would do. I certainly don’t disagree with any of your points, just trying to logically think it through is all.
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Any chance you could still help me with the way to wire the HH52P? Winter is coming on and and I’d really like to add the fireplace into some of my routines…THANKS!
Hi Tom.
Actually yes… I need to pull mine all apart anyway. I want to inspect everything and make sure there are no issues before I put this back into commission.
I’ll take pictures and everything.
I’m interested as well. I want to automate mine this winter.
Ok. What I’ll do is get it all done and create a page on the wiki… then I’ll post a link here. Give me some time in this one ok.
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Sorry, that sounds like a lot of hassle… Hope it is not…If it is just let me know…and thanks!
Sure you are busy…so I am uploading my own drawing…Is this what you did?
To everybody else…I’m just asking…not sure this is right.
Awesome picture and excellent detail.
I’m using an Aeon Microswitch in place of your GE switch and I’m also using the wall switch that was installed by the builder.
Mine is wired like this…
13 & 14 are load and common
12 & 4 are the wires going to the fireplace electronics box
I have the wall switch going to the microswitch. I can turn it one with the app and the wall switch.
What you’ve got looks good, but be sure.
Use a multimeter and before you wire it to the fireplace check your voltages.
Connect power to the switch. Check your terminals when the relay is off and on to make sure you’re not accidentally sending 110 volts into the fireplace.