I will try to help. Unfortunately your photo isn’t coming through - Google is giving a 500 error and saying to try again later.
I have done several three and four way switches in my house (few more to go) using the Linear branded switches, which are identical to the evolves.
My first suggestion is to put the instructions asside and ignore them for now. Key is to focus on what the wires are in the wall and not the expected wiring per instructions.
What you need to identify is which wire is which. If you wiring is like mine, it isn’t always clear. For starters, you should be able to identify the common/white wire pretty easily. Next you need to identify the load wire and the hot wire.
While you probably already know how to use a volt meter, I will make the assumption you do not. Power off, separate all wires. Now turn power back on and use meter on AC mode. Touch black cable from meter to ground (or white common). Please note that you may have multiple white wires in the box. If you have separated them, if may be easier to touch black meter cable to ground. Now touch the red cable to the various black cables. One should show up with voltage of 120v. That is your live/hot wire. Keep track of it (I used pen/paper…to help my memory).
Now the tricky part. Where is the load wire. Load wire is the one that is going to the light(s). One 4 way switch, the load and hot were in separate boxes from where I expected. Easy way to test for load is using volt meter and using continuity mode. In this mode if you touch the two cables together, you will get a beep. Now touch one end of meter to light socket and other to wire in box. You may have to test several as well as adjust what part of socket you are touching in light. When you get signals you found the load wire.
If your light is like one of mine and is a chandelier on an 18 foot ceiling, above option not doable. Lucky for my I was still able to reach chandelier. With friends help, I had him touch meter from ground to one of the suspected load wires in ohm mode, which measures resistance. Measureing this way, you are going from ground into light across bulbs and down into the load wire. As friend was monitoring how much resistance, I started taking light bulbs out (10 bulbs total). We immediately saw the resistance change.
Now you can grab the instructions and verify which wires go to where.
This should get your main switch working and you can now turn power on and test it.
Now move in to the additional (3 and 4 way) switches. These switches no longer need a travel wire. Most times I capped mine off (cap on wire then electrical tape to ensure stays in). One switch I had to hijack the travel wire to bring power from the hot/live wire across. You see, the accessory switches don’t need a travel wire, don’t need a load wire, and physically don’t need to be connected in any way to the main switch you installed above. All they need it a live wire, a common (white) and a ground.
Most of my accessory switches were easy to install once I figured out where the load wire was. Only one point, as mentioned above, did I find no power at the accessory switch, so used the travel wire (wire that runs from one box to the next) to pull power across. Other ones already had power or there was another switch in box I stole power from (ties the wire to it’s hot).
Once installed, make sure you tie them into ST before using remote to associate the accessory switches to the main switch to create a virtual 3 way. Once done, you will be very happy with how they work.