It’s what they are named in your MySmartBlinds app, you have to say “Alexa tell my smartblinds to open or close”
Tried to do it remotely, again, and it didn’t work upon returning. I did see the wifi type signal, which I assume means I am connected to the hub, but the blinds are not controllable (for me at least) using ios.
Here’s a link to all the support commands for the Alexa skill.
You should probably reach out to their support dept. about it.
Their site touts the ability to control the blinds beyond bluetooth range via the cloud if you have the bridge.
I just moved into a house with these blinds already installed. Downloaded the app (iPhone) and they won’t pair with any of the blinds. One paired and then immediately went away. Any ideas?? They are moving on their own, so I’d like to be able to control them. Thanks!
You probably have to factory reset them as they are probably still connected to the former owner’s account and only accepting commands from their Bluetooth devices. I somehow bought these on Amazon for only $20 and they actually arrived a week ago. I installed them using my Android phone but nothing would work right so I logged into my account on my iPad and everything just worked. I don’t know enough about Bluetooth but it doesn’t seem like you’re actually pairing it to your phone, once you log into the app from a new device that seems to authorize the blinds to accept commands from your phone. I definitely didn’t pair them to my iPad.
If they are opening and closing on their own then it’s probably running the schedule from the former owner as that gets saved to the actual blinds directly.
$20??? How in the world??
Apparently ST integration is around the corner:
any news? i just bought only one kit
I have modified our Mysmartblinds to where they can be controlled by SmartThings or any other Z-Wave controller. I have 5 sets of the blinds wired together in our master bath and tanning room to all work in unison… It’s actually quite simple to do.
A Mimolite Z-Wave momentary relay and 22/2 gauge security wire is about all the materials you need. The blind motor has a manual override (on/off) switch wire that you can tap into inside the blind header.
There are 3 wires within the manual switch lead: Common, motor control and charger. The common wire is marked with white stripe and the motor wire is the middle wire right beside the common. Splice tap into these 2 wires with your security wire using some small security wire crimps. I hooked the red security wire to the motor wire and black to common, but it really doesn’t matter which goes to which. All you are going to be doing is closing the relay to complete a circuit (on/off).
To hide the wires I used a 1/4" x 18" drill and drilled up through the window sill header and into the attic. This hole is hidden by the blind header and is invisible with the blinds installed. I snaked the security wire up through the hole and home ran each wire for each window back to the Mimolite switch, which I wall mounted in our server room upstairs. The security wires go to the relay contacts on the Mimolite switch. I put red to positive (+) and black to negative (-) and configured the Mimo relay as a momentary switch.
Here is where it gets really nifty: I figured out that The MySmartBlinds motors have some logic written into them from the factory that reacts to the number of quick-pulls on the manual switch. Each quick-pull results in the blinds moving 25%. So if the blinds are closed and you want to open them fully, then 2 quick pulls will move them 50%. If they are fully closed down and you give 3 quick pulls, then they will move to 25% open in the upwards position. (Note this is basically all the Mysmartblinds app is doing via Bluetooth and your phone, likely via pulse count.)
On the Mimolite you replicate this by successive commands to the relay. If you want to fully open the blinds from full closed, send relay command on>off>on>off and voila! The blind motors will see this as two quick pulls and will all move together from closed to fully open. Send the same command again and they’ll all close. Works like a charm.
Note that the individual manual switch will still work on each blind (remember, we only splice tapped). The Bluetooth control via the SmartBlinds app also will still work. So you will still have full control same as before, except you’ve added the ability to control with Z-Wave.
Optional: I added SmartThings micro multipurpose sensors (with x,y,z three axis) to the top blade of each blind set and configured them for “garage door” monitoring. This way my software can confirm if the blinds have actually moved and what position they are in.
I use Homeseer for my Z-Wave controller and software (SmartThings for ZigBee devices only) and I have several automated events now that include MySmartBlinds.
Example: Turn on the shower (Fortrezz Water Flow Meter on hot water supply line for shower) and the shower lights turn on, the exhaust fan turns on, a roller shade closes on the master bath patio door (Link Shades blackout shade), and all the SmartBlinds close. When the shower is turned off, everything returns to prior state after 7 minutes delay.
Another routine closes all the blinds (if they are open) when the tanning bed is turned on, and another routine closes all the blinds at 9:00pm and reopens them at 8:00am (if the shower and/or tanning bed are not on).
I was very unhappy with the Mysmartblinds prior to converting them to Z-Wave. The were unreliable and frustrating. The conversion to Z-Wave control made them reliable and fully integrated into our daily routines. It was a 4 hour project and well worth every minute.
My only regret is that I didn’t use 22/4 security wire. If I had done that I could have tapped into the 3rd wire on the motor lead and ran that to a 3.2 volt charger in the server room. That would keep the Mysmartblinds battery 100% charged all the time. I have the solar chargers on them now, but some of the north facing windows don’t catch enough sun and I occasionally have to manually charge a window. If it gets to be too much of a pain I can always switch out the 22/2 wire to 22/4 wire later.
Hope you find this useful, and happy automating!
Awesome project and thank you for sharing! Since I cannot wire the blinds in the same way all over the house, I am hoping an official zwave release will happen soon, but I enjoyed reading about your project!
My guess, and this is just a guess, is that the company is married to Bluetooth LE for the foreseeable future. And that’s a shame. They have a great name from a marketing perspective. But outside of that, there is nothing really “Smart” about their closed proprietary system. Home automation is about interoperability and openness.
One thing they could do is develop an open API to communicate with their WiFi hub and then work on integration with IFTTT. I’m sure their SmartThings “integration” (months late) is going to be done that way. But that will also introduce significant latency issues, which will be a turn off for some people.
An open API would allow 3rd party developers to create device handlers and plugins for other controllers, such as Hubitat, openHAB, Homeseer, etc. Again, latency issues would be a problem but probably wouldn’t be as significant as those typically experienced with SmartThings and IFTT API services.
These guys have a short window of opportunity (no pun intended) before several more upstarts and bigger players begin to crowd the market space. If I were them I’d make an open API top priority to help jump start market penetration and brand awareness.
They are already working at a disadvantage by using BTLE chips. If a bigger player steps in and offers Z-Wave (or Zigbee) controlled blinds that execute locally (zero latency), these guys are toast. Their best defense is a market penetration push (open API) before that happens.
Thank you for this fantastic idea!
I have two sets of Mysmartblinds which are side by side and I can easily hide the wires.
Major bonus is that this hack saves the purchase of their hub, which is around $130 CAD. Mysmartblinds have Google Home integration, but it’s not available in Canada. And the worst part is that they are not compatible with my Pixel 2 XL phone!
I was told by support about a month or so ago that they have submitted to SmartThings a device integration request. I assume this process https://docs.smartthings.com/en/latest/device-type-developers-guide/device-int
Does anyone know if it typically takes a long time to get certified?
That’s the old publishing process which was killed off a while ago. The new one is below and hopefully what they followed if they want any chance of moving forward. They discussed some at SDC a couple days ago, so hopefully they were paying attention.
Works fine with Pixel2XL here in Ontario
The hub also working fine