Make a "dumb" fan "smart" using cheapo ESP8266 board controllable via ST (universal IR remote)

If you’re around my hood, feel free to pick some up :slight_smile: I got 20 of them… The pre-built READER is actually pretty decent but the blaster is terrible. Sadly I got 3 of those sets too due to impulses :slight_smile: at least I can use the receiver — it’s really sensitive.

See my last post on the RPi thread… I updated the code a few days ago with full ESP8266 support.

I updated the ST Groovy code to easily interface with ESP8266 and I provide the same Arduino sketch for 2 relays not IR stuff just yet. Alexa can trigger ON/OFF or you can assign ON to momentarily trigger your main switch while OFF can momentarily trigger the custom one. It works very similarly to the Raspberry Pi. I want to also release my attempt at a TV remote but I’ll be asking for some help from the community as I’m having issues doing something like “Alexa set my TV Remote to 2” using a slider — the same way that I can do with dimmers. I got close and the ST front-end works but Alexa is being a prude and don’t wanna put out :slight_smile:

Relays were simple enough to do with the tiny NodeMCU board. However, I liked how compact the DUAL 5V relay was as I’m trying to fit into a project box. The little 3.3v relays are kinda long and not on a single board like the. This made it PERFECT for me to test my 5V pin on the ESP8266. Everything worked great but I had to connect the relay positive directly to the 5V line. That means I had to connect the relay itself to any GPIO pin but instead of sending a positive signal, I had to send a negative/ground. It worked great and I am now waiting for a Chinese clear project box to finish up the Garage/light project.

HOWEVER, what that made me realize is that I cannot do the same thing with IR LED’s. Considering that we call a library function which uses “standard” functions unlike my 5V relay POC, and uses a POSITIVE signal to send to the IR LED while the negative lead is always connected. So in order to truly use the 5V feed, I’d have to find where in the IRLib the pin is sent a HIGH and change it to LOW and repeat for the other. Only then we can use 5V — but what’s the point when 2 high output IR LED’s are AWESOME with no resistor and I can easily do 11-12 foot distance. Once I put that in a project box, I will bend the LED’s to point to the two device areas I need to cover.

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