Looking for help with 3-way switch and GE 12723 / 12722 combo

wallswitch
zwave
3-way
switch

(Jared) #1

I’m looking for help understanding how to convert the following 3-way switch over to a Z-Wave controlled circuit:

.

I’ve successfully converted a “standard” 3-way switch in the past with no issue, but this wiring poses a bit more of a challenge.

In the past, for the standard 3-way switch, I followed this video’s instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fx1luE9llSQ. Here’s the instructions for the GE 12723 (Jasco) in PDF form..

My first attempt looks like this:


Unfortunately, the add-on 12723 does not work as wired - nothing happens when the toggle is pressed. The 12722 works as normal.

Any ideas?


(Chris) #2

Something seems strange to me about the black load wire from the master switch connecting to the white and then the red. Have you used a multimeter to be sure you have the correct wires identified? I have never seen a white used as a traveler. Only red and black.


(Michael) #3

Any chance you can take pictures of the wires in the box and label them? Need to know which Romex is which in each box. I am having trouble wrapping my head around your diagram.


(Jared) #4

It’s entirely possible that I’ve missed something in my original attempt to diagram out the wiring - this was my best guess based entirely on visual tracing of wires. Is there an easy way, while the power is off, to test single wires for continuity across two boxes? I don’t currently have many tools available, I’m open to possibly picking something up.

I can supply pictures, I’ve taken reference pictures (in case I need to revert) of each switch that I’ve replaced but it’s hard to get a good shot of all the wires involved in box #1 due to three switches / 4 romex.


(Chris) #5

Depends on how far away they are from each other. Mine are relatively close. I use a multimeter on Continuity mode, some alligator clamps, and a spool of wire from Auto Zone to test and label my traveler wires. Once that’s done, by process of elimination, I should have two unknown black wires left. Making sure they are not touching anything, I turn the breaker back on and test for line voltage. One should be 120v and one should show nothing. That will identify your line and load. Once you have all of this done, you should get a clear picture of how the wires need to be hooked up.

If yours are far away it might be more difficult. Still, a 50-100’ spool of thin stranded wire is relatively cheap and works fine for testing continuity.