Linear Z-Wave Dimmer

Linear Z-Wave Dimmer on Prime sale later today.

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Is that 7:15pm PST or EST? I’m guessing PST as it’s currently 7:19pm EST right now :\

What’s the sale price going to be? It’s showing $34 now.

Showing $24.46 now

Is this a good price? Anybody have experience with these? I’m looking to pick up some cheap switches to replace some less important “dumb” switches around the house

Anybody know if these are as good as the GE switches?

They are about the same. The old old versions supported 4 z-wave group associations but I don’t believe that works anymore and likely wouldn’t work w smartthings.

I own these and the GE. Biggest difference is GE has a green LED and Linear has blue or VV. Never had any problems w them though.

Honestly almost prefer smart bulbs and control them w the linear z-wave accessory dimmer but if your worried about your hub going offline, these might be a better choice.

One thing that I ran into trying to install one of these, and likely I just didn’t understand it well enough to make it work, but the instructions in-box said that the switch requires a dedicated neutral connection - as far as I could figure out, my switch box (3 switches) has a shared neutral that two other lights were also attached to, and the Linear would not work with that setup.

@nhouse - If you found different please straighten me out. :slight_smile: I might get a couple of these at this price if I can make them work. Thanks.

Note that these are the old INCANDECENT ONLY dimmers. THEY WILL NOT WORK WITH LEDS OF CFLS

"500 Watts for control of permanently installed incandescent lamp fixtures only "

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Wow I did not realize that’s what that meant! Guess I won’t have any use for these then.

Edit: according to this review, it works with LEDs, but get’s “wonky” at 10% or below

I can confirm that these do work with LED’s, as long as you have a group of them running on the switch. In my case, I have 6 LED’s on the switch and they work “okay”… down to about 10%. :wink:

Thanks! I just picked one up. $24 doesn’t seem too bad for a basic dimmer switch (I assume these aren’t instant status or z-wave plus, but they should work well enough to replace basic switches)

For what it’s worth the ‘from the manufacturer’ portion says “With a capacity of up to 500 watts, the switch lets you control permanently installed fluorescent, halogen, and LED lighting.” So I don’t think it’s incandescent only.

Try hooking it up to a single 7,9, 11W LED bulb and tell me it works . Home Depot had some of these and even with 2 11w bulbs dimmed all the way the lights were at close to full brightness.

I’m just quoting what Amazon says the manufacturer says about the product. I don’t have any first hand experience. I’ve read conflicting reports, some say it works just fine with a single led bulb.

I bought one. I’ll let you know what my experience is when I have something first hand to add.

My recollection of my testing (when I installed this switch about 6 months ago) is that you need > 40W draw to get these things to dim with anything resembling a “normal” dimmer… hence my 6 bulb setup.

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Agreed. with 2 11W LED bulbs they were useless, with 4 11W LEDs they work " fine" .

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@Danabw The dedicated neutral makes sense f/ these as they are needing to pull power from the line to remain on at all times. The old GE switches that didn’t require a neutral got around that by not fully turning the lights off and allowing enough power to remain working etc. For a double/triple gang box, I’d think it should work fine sharing the neutral with another and am pretty sure I’ve done just that thru out my house as each gang only has a single neutral in and out unless its the end of a run.

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I use these with dimmable leds in my kitchen just fine. Have 5 recessed fixtures that are chained together as thats how the house was pre-wired. Come to think of it, I have a few of these and don’t think I own any standard incandescent bulbs.

Thanks for the reply. It didn’t make sense to me that the switch would need it’s own separate neutral, so I guess I may have mis-read that. The switch was a “used like new” from Amazon, so maybe the reason it didn’t work was the switch was bad, not wiring.